Was there any marker other than the F4 Illustrator that used a 1/2” valve and striker? I was thinking about boring out an F4 to 11/16” but unfortunately there just isn’t enough meat. Also, could someone give me dimensions on the more popular Spyder and Bob Long bolts? OD, pin hole to first o ring, o ring to o ring, and o ring to the tip of the bolt.
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The f1, f2 and aft ha!
The raptor maybe? -
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A few other guns that I believe have a .5" valve/hammer, Laser, Laser II, Viper M1. That evolutionary branch split off from the F1 as well and share a few design quirks.
What valve behavior are you looking to add to an F4? I might be easier to build a new valve from scratch over adapting a body to take a different valve.Comment
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Increased flow and more volume. I’m just bouncing around ideas in my head right now. I was looking at the Brass Eagle valves and it looks like they have a dedicated channel for blowback on the valve face which might be good, I’m not sure lol. So far I’m going to try putting in a nice Timmy or Spyder front bolt, lighter bolt pin, polish the hammer, lighter hammer spring, lighter valve spring, and try out some different valve pins. The shaved pins with the tapered cup seals look good but I don’t see a reason to use a stem like that and a vented valve. I’m thinking that’s too much blowback air for a hammer that’s already pretty small and light.
I was looking at the Autococker 9/16 valves. That wouldn’t require too much modification to make it fit but I’m scratching my head trying to figure out why they only have one o ring, on the cup seal side. What stops the air from escaping on the hammer side?
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What about the Spyder fatty markers? Idk the measurement but they come to mind if we are taking about larger than normal valves
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Trbo323 I’m looking for smaller than the fatty markers. I measured the striker and valve of the F4 and it’s 1/2”. Most Spyders are 11/16”. There are some Cockers that are 9/16 which is only like .1 larger though and I think I might be able to get one of those to work but I’m confused on why they only have one o ring on them, on the cup seal side. They don’t have an o ring on the stem/striker side.Comment
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Valves don't necessarily need that second o-ring. On a older cocker you have the valve jam nut pressing against that face, and that mostly seals that side. It doesn't need to be hermetically sealed, air flow tends to follow the path of least resistance.
Even on a blowback, removing that second o-ring will just give you a little extra recock force.Comment
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I’m second guessing my eyes. I ran out of contacts so I’m using my glasses but my near sight is not very good at all with them.
is this 1/2” or 9/16”?Comment
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MrBarraclough Yeah I think so too. Now I gotta find a 9/16” valve. Without the o rings on the stock valve there is a tiny amount of wiggle room. Like 0.3-0.5mm.Comment
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