Anyone know how to make 'WEDGITS" for aluminum barrels?

[tagroland]

I have about 80 aluminum barrels that need to be modified to prevent roll-outs.

The barrels are rentals (worn) for Tippmann SL-68.

Any ideas?

[MullerTime]

With 80 barrels, the easiest/quickest way may be just to put three small dabs of nail polish on the breech end of the barrel. The nail polish detents may wear off eventually but should last a while.

[Ecapnation]

You might crack thin wall aluminum before denting them

[DocsMachine]

I've had in mind a couple quick little designs for a "wedgitizer" or two, for a number of years now. Have yet to sit down and actually build either one.

But I've heard of guys using the head of a nail- that is, turned sideways- as a punch. I think you'd need some support inside, though.

Doc.

[$L!mBo]

use the freedummy detents

[TouchofGrey]

1/4 inch square of adhesive fabric tape with a small soft piece of foam underneath. Attach 1 inch from breach.

[devilzcall]

Back in the day nerf hobbyists would put tightening rings into thin wall brass and aluminum barrels by swapping the blade of a pipe cutter for a washer. Might be worth a shot depending on your wall thickness

[DocsMachine]

An interesting idea, but I think proper wedgits would be more forgiving for variants in paint sizes.

Doc.

[k_obeastly]

I bored out a piece of brass round stock to go over the end of the barrel and drilled three holes in it 120ish degrees apart. I put a piece of delrin round stock inside the barrel and use a punch on the outside where each of the holes are. They aren't palmers shaped wedgits. Just dents but they work. Has worked on ICD, sterling (modified raptor), and spyder barrels. It is not bored big enough for cocker barrels, but they are a bit thicker walled and it would probably be ineffective.

[Cunha]

Its good if you make something to support the inside of the barrel.

Then you press a dent in, with a press.

The most important thing people F up is putting the wedgits in the wrong spot.

The wedgits WEDGE the ball. When the bolt is closed the ball should be jammed between the wedgits not sitting behind them waiting to be accelerated into them.

I have had plenty of aluminum barrels wedgited. They work well.
Agree with other poster though the easiest way is some nailpolish or epoxy. It doesn't take much. Like really very little.

[mercpb]

What if you rounded off the business end of a nut splitter with reasonably close matching diameter, and stuck an oak dowel inside barrel whilst cranking for good measure?

[DocsMachine]

No. The "anvil" needs to be directly opposite the "punch". Trying to do that on an open tube will simply distort or even crush the tube.

Keep in mind that in this case, with slip-fit SL barrels, the OD needs to stay very round. Make it egg-shaped or have raised portions and it no longer fits in the gun.

Doc.

[Drcemento]

I've had pretty good luck with a dremel, 3d printed "anvil", hammer bench vise and a chisel punch that I ground to roughly the same size as palmers wedgit. - mark out your wedgit lines, very carefully use a cut-off wheel to remove a small amount of Material along the line to keep your punch from wandering when struck. insert anvil - I printed one that has a small amount of relief under where the wedgit goes and pound in your wedgit. - go slow and check your work. I've done them in aluminum and brass. having the relief slots in the anvil alowes you to gauge depth of wedgit. you go until its hard to remove the anvil

I've heard from a good source that palmers had 2 methods - one was a home brewed stapler looking thing on a hinge. you slid the barrel onto an"anvil" and brought the punch arm down, and Whacked it with a hammer till you got it right - this was for somethign like a PGP when they didn;t want to pull it apart. the other was a collet like device with a die inside. looking at my Palmer brass barrel and some palmerized sheridans you can start to see which method they used.