Automag pneumatic trigger build

[Chris11Amato]

I’m building a mag with a pneumatic trigger and LPR inside the frame, starting with an XM Mag and Level 10 setup. My original plan was to use a Luke’s Customs MP90 grip frame with the P90 LPR and T-Rex. He offers bottomline ASA options and can modify a CP ASA to work with the internal LPR, but I’m not a fan of the bulk or the side-exit airline on those setups.

For this build, I’d really like to use an Inception EZ ASA to keep the look cleaner and more modern. The challenge, of course, is that it uses a T‑slot instead of a flat mount. I found a build here that used a Dye frame and what looks like a T‑slot ASA (photo attached), which made me think this might be possible.

I was hoping someone might be able to machine the ASA and/or frame to route air to the LPR. It will involve drilling the ASA and adding an o‑ring seal between it and the frame. I know it’s not a simple job, but I wanted to see if it’s something that can be done.

If the EZ ASA won’t work for this type of modification, I also have a Bob Long Gear Drive ASA that I’ve seen used on similar builds.

If someone is willing to tackle this project, please reach out. Ty

[rawbutter]

Man...I haven't check MCB in months, and then I log in and see someone posting about a frame I made years ago. Wild.

Anyhow, I made that frame. It's not a T-slot on the bottom, it's a dovetail. But I have made frames with T-slots before. I have an unlisted video on YouTube I can link here. Just ignore all my rambling and try to focus on how the ASA is installed. With most sleeper set-ups (like Luke's), there's an o-ring between the frame and the ASA that gets squeezed to seal in the air when you screw in the ASA. But with dovetail or T-slot ASA sleeper builds, the o-ring is between the ASA and the LPR, not the frame. As you screw in the LPR from the top, it moves down and seals against the o-ring.

In that video, you will notice that the base of the LPR looks different. That's because I had to make a replacement part myself. The original part isn't long enough to go through the bottom of a stock frame. But most other frames don't need that replacement part. You can use the bottom fitting that comes with the LPR. You just need to thread the 1/8 NPT threads from inside the frame towards the bottom. Not very fun.

I've also made sleepers with Gear Drives. Those are a lot easier to do because they work more like the CP ASAs. You can just sandwich the o-ring seal between the ASA and the frame. The only tricky part is drilling an air channel in through the top of the Gear Drive. You have to make sure not to come through where there's usually an o-ring.

I'm not doing work myself anymore. I'm mostly just posting this for advice in case anyone offers to help you out. But I should warn you that this kind of work isn't cheap. I agree that Luke's stuff isn't the most...uh...aesthetically pleasing, and it's not cheap either. But it's still somehow cheaper than getting custom work done. The turn-around is faster too. Back when I was doing custom work, a frame like that could cost $300 - $400 for the labor, plus whatever the parts cost, and it would take a few months to get done.

Still, hopefully someone here can help you out. Good luck with your build!

[Iseeo_0you]

That frame looks sick on that marker btw.

[1snowridr]

I've seen the frame that RawButter made & as he's said (his are perfect by the way) there's a lot going on to get it done. I also own many Lukes frames & his are plug & play. If you're dead set on finding someone that can do it, reach out to CS Machine and Fabrication | Custom Machined Paintball Equipment & make sure to send him the video's that RawButter made so he knows what you're asking him to do. He's an OG paintball himself so he understands how things work and he's a great machinist. He's one of the few I'd trust to do it right.

[Chris11Amato]

Thanks for all the info and advice!

[river031403]

I have one of rawbutters dye pnuemag frames…I just have to dig in the parts bin for body rail and valve