ULE on/off leak

[GingerBreadPaint]

At least I'm pretty sure it's coming from my on/off valve. Mag leaks down the barrel, stops while the trigger is held. I've swapped the carrier o-ring (and tried dropping carrier sizes), it's possible both carrier o-rings I have are bad but I can't tell other than seeing no damage on either of them.

Looking at the ULE I'm not sure what o-ring needs replaced, I know it's not the top half. Only other one I can think of is the tiny black o-ring at the base on the on/off pin. If that's the case I don't have any spare o-rings for any part of the ULE.

Worst case, I have the original RT on/off that my Xvalve came with, but not sure what adjustments are needed to set that back up.

Thanks in advance.

[superman]

The black oring is likely the culprit.

[GingerBreadPaint]

Which is weird, I've pulled that off as well and did not see any obvious damage or wear on that o-ring as well.

[superman]

You likely won’t unless it is brittle and crumbles.

[GingerBreadPaint]

Replacing that o-ring not going to happen before next week for IoN. If I drop in the orginial RT on/off are there any adjustments that need to be made?

[superman]

You will need to make sure you have the 2 top in/off orings installed.


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[GingerBreadPaint]

After some more poking around... Not sure how I missed this. I think I'm missing an o-ring where the bolt guide meets the valve body, see picture. If that's true, well I'm a little embarrassed, and no clue where that o-ring went off to.

Do you happen to know what the call-out for that o-ring might be?

[superman]

That powertube is not supposed to come off and is not an oring in the standard agd kit. Your powertube should be loctited in place.

[GingerBreadPaint]

well it came off when I got everything anodized, will look at gluing it back together.

[GingerBreadPaint]

Used some teflon tape as a test on the power tube, the leak moved from the barrel to between the rail and body. So I believe the un-glued power tube is the culprit of my leak now.

Will regular blue loctite CA glue work to seal that, or do I need something fancy?

[Levi]

I have successfully used regular blue loctite to seal these before.

[superman]

looking at this again. that orange oring should be on the tip where you think the oring is missing. I wouldn't use glue. typically i use loctite 242.

[FredMnkyDad10]

Was there not a post about the best loctite to use. Some had mentioned 243, for these types of applications. Still hold and seal. But you dont need anything but good force if you ever need to separate them again.

Not sure what the difference between 242 and 243. Besides the number.

[superman]

Maybe it was 243. I’d have to check my bench again.

[tunaman5]

After some more poking around... Not sure how I missed this. I think I'm missing an o-ring where the bolt guide meets the valve body, see picture. If that's true, well I'm a little embarrassed, and no clue where that o-ring went off to.

Do you happen to know what the call-out for that o-ring might be?

That oring is not even in the right spot. You need to move it up to the proper position in the groove. Loctite on the threads and dont get any on the oring.

[tunaman5]

Looking at the OP's post again, he says it doesnt leal when he holds the trigger back. That would rule out the on/off.

[Levi]

OP's valve is a little different... possibly a level 5? So I'm not sure if it's the same, but here is the O-Ring size for level-7's

[superman]

Ops valve is an xvalve. It is the same oring.


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[Levi]

I see that now. The lighting made it look like stainless at first... which had me thinking classic.

[Brokeass_baller]

Makes sense it was removed for ano. The powertube is steel.