Best valve for stock class cocker

[Alexndl]

I am building a stock class cocker and I am wondering what valve would give me the best result?

I bough an unfinished stock class cocker project here some time ago and I am trying to figure out which internal to use

Here are the parts list
2k cocker body with phantom one piece feed
PPS 12g bucket charger with adjustable regulator



I search my bins to see what valve I would have for this project and I found several. Instead of trying all of them I would like your opinions on which one would be the best choice

ANS, RAT, sheridan palmer, Palmer?, stock 2k (and the other valve body over have a wider entry port and I think the stock cup seal would work with it)
Note: the sheridan valve was installed when I bough the project, anyone tried sheridan valve in cocker?


for spring I have inception kit and a New Maddman kit, any suggestion for valve spring? And recommended starting pressure for the reg?
My goal would be to tune for efficiency and would like to get 35 good shot per 12g if possible


For the bolt I would assume the smaller bore of the white delrin bolt would be better than the shocktech supperfly? Or you think the opposite?

[Trbo323]

I mean, I'm not a stock class guy but I imagine efficiency is important so if try that black valve on the left to start. Twin rings and a large port should help in theory. For the bolts, try them both, those are super easy to change out

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[Cdn_Cuda]

I would think the orings on the bolt would make a bigger difference than the bolt face, so the white one may be better. But if both have the same orings the test to see. I did some testing on ID bolts and found the newer trident bolt had bumped my FPS up by 10+ with all things equal. Just test with a chrono and switch the bolts out to see which give better results.

[Chuck E Ducky]

I run a palmers HP valve on my Scout. It works the best from what I have found.

[Jordan]

I ran a stock WGP valve at 500ish psi on a Sniper3 build and got 40 shots per 12 gram, with velocity at 260-270 FPS.

Stock WGP valves are great, and with the extra volume you'll have with the 2k body, you can run lower input pressures and will likely get a similar or better shot count.

Velocity will also greatly determine shot count.

[Chuck E Ducky]

Wow that’s some impressive numbers on a sniper setup.

[Super69ur]

Palmers or stock WGP

[RedLeaderSB]

Is the valve question separate from springing: I’d like my stock class snipers not to vent without cocking first, which means stiffer springs. Do I have to use hp valve to match, or will any valve do?

[Chuck E Ducky]

It’s going to need stiff spring anyway. My madman spring kit didn’t go stiff enough to run unregulated

[Jordan]

Is the valve question separate from springing: I’d like my stock class snipers not to vent without cocking first, which means stiffer springs. Do I have to use hp valve to match, or will any valve do?

I doubt you'll accomplish that easily... Snipers by design have preload on the valve stem from the hammer spring. You'll go crazy trying to sort a spring combo that has stiff enough springs to not vent and still have a tolerable pump stroke.

[sandfreestyle]

When you say "best result", what are you referring to? Smoothness, efficiency, etc?

I have spent hours testing an tuning my sniper for super smooth operation. I ended up with a RAT valve, Maggot SLPS spring kit, CCM heavy hammer, and a bolt like the white one you have. I'm currently at 260-280psi with IVG about 1.5-2 turns in from flush getting 280fps and about 250-300 shots on a 13/3000 pending weather and fill method.

Interesting enough, the bolt has a big impact on the performance. Dual orings and a single directional port hole at the valve opening really allows the most air to get transferred behind the ball.

My Dye Reflex pump has to use a stock single hole valve and 300psi to get the same result as above. I think because the bolt just has a general cavity in the bolt. The LP valves don't work in this platform at all.

[Alexndl]

My goal is to find a happy middle between efficiency (number of shot per 12g) and smooth pump, since I know I wont have both

I will be aiming for 260 fps velocity
I would like medium valve spring to be in the 400psi range (since low pressure seem to reduce efficiency)

will use a heavy hammer and will most likely reduce the hammer spring length to lower the pressure on the valve at rest (as pointed out by Jordan and also other post on the quest of the higher shot per 12g)

my question was more to select the best valve to start my test since I have some good option already in my bin
i was also leaning on the palmer but the Rat valve have an oring on the cupseal stem and was wondering if it could help
I have also seen people having good result with stock valve

[sandfreestyle]

LP valves really shouldn't run over 300psi, and can be difficult to get to work at that psi. The face of the cupseal is so broad that the air behind it pushes against it and helps keep it closed. Hence why they have to run LP. If 400psi is what you're thinking, use a stock valve or the Palmers and stay away from the ANS and RAT.

I use to have a BM with stock lowers except springs and it ran really well and that's where I recommend starting.

[gabe]

Looks like that 12gram changer is regulated so you can run whatever you like and many have found regulated 12gram setups to have better efficiency.

I would start with the stock WGP valve and standard balanced spring setup like SLPS or green/green maddmann springs and see where that gets you. Pressure around 400 and minimal valve fart and then around 30 shots would be a nice target to have. Don't worry about venting if you don't cock the gun, just cock it before gassing it up.