Pre2K problems

[BigRed]

I am trying to get a project cocker finished for a game in a couple weeks. It's a right feed Pre2k with all new ID pneumatics, PPS stabilizer and a Benchmark slider.

What my problem is, when I up the ID lpr to where it will cycle nicely the ID 3 way has a steady leak. If I back the lpr out, the leak goes away, but the back block will cycle without going back far enough to cock the hammer again.

I have adjusted the hammer lug, and I believe I have it at a good spot...early in the pull. I've also adjusted the timing rod that I have it shoot then cock. With it set like this the 3 way steadily leaks. I have examined the orings and re-lubed them. They look ok, maybe a little small but they are factory ones.

Does anyone have any ideas for me?

[Alexndl]

Pull the back block and check where the bolt is when the hammer pass the sear, you can adjust the cocking rod so its just before the front face of the bolt is about to entirely clear the breach.

for the 3way I think in the manual there is a visual alignment that can be done to set the "rest" position but I am no expert on those ID 3 way

[BrickHaus]

Take it out of training mode. Lol jkjk.

Im no pro at all. But my Gut wants to ask if you have an oblong timing rod, or a circular one.

Did inception have a custom length timing rod with it?

My other initial thought is the ram is back feeding causing the leak possibly. But being all pneumatics. I can only assume its an adjustment thing.

[latches109]

if you have a very stiff main spring more recocking pressure is required.
how stiff is the hammer spring? how many turns in is the IVG?
what is your HPR pressure at?
do you have a gauge to measure the LPR pressure?

Check the rear frame and beaver tail screws are not protruding into the lower tube.

pictures will make this more fun

[Cdn_Cuda]

Sounds like it's a cocking rod issue. You may need to shorten the distance so the hammer re-cocks when the LPR engages. So adjust the end of the cocking rod so it's closer to the back of the gun. The LPR is basically just providing the re-cocking, so the higher the LPR reg, the stronger the recocking, but won't help catch the sear if your cocking rod isn't set right.

One problem I had when I was setting my cocker up is I had put an o-ring under the 3-way (between front block and 3-way) and it messed up my timing. Once removed, everything worked great.

For timing, I looked up Simon's cocker timing videos online. They are great and really show you how to set your marker up from start to finish. I really like the ID 3-ways and how easy they are to adjust.

[BigRed]

Thanks for all the input guys. I did a couple of things...changed the hammer spring for one slightly less stiff and lubed the three way within an inch of its life. I put it back together and backed the lpr off. Aired it up and slowly tightened the lpr until it was cocking good, no burps just steady cycling without any leaking.

Now I have to get more air and check the fps etc. It's been 9 years since I had an Autococker...I forgot the joys!

[BigRed]

Just cause we like pics...

[Cdn_Cuda]

Nice build! I'm trying hard not to throw a ID front block on an X5 cocker I have... I think I'm losing the battle though...

[BigRed]

I tried to hold off on the lpr...lost the battle

[Alexndl]

Nice build, love the dust/gloss black combo

If you need a beavertail let me know I have couple of model that would fit well with your build

[BigRed]

I have one in transit...should be here next week.

[Meleager7]

great build! Where did you find that minty benchmark frame?

[Chuck E Ducky]

Looking in from the feedneck when pulling the block back dose the bolt have excessive travel back before it fully cocks?

You can try adjusting the cocking rod shorter I have run into this with some builds. Cocking rod length is to long causing the bolt to have excessive throw. You can Try a 2nd bumper to test.

I try and adjust them so it cocks right at the point the bolt face breaks the back side of the feed neck hole.

Often leaky 3 ways can be fixed with some Dow 55 it’s really the only reason I keep it around in the tool kit. (It swells Oring a lil)

[Grendel]

I assume you are using some type of dialer [e.g. Rex Dialer] given the body you are using? If so you could still be over springing the hammer some of the dialers are pretty long and do not take standard "nelson springs" they have the same spring rate in a shorter form. In addition as mentioned before (post above as an example) bolt travel before reset is determined by the cocking rod which you did not mention shortening in your last config. post.

[BigRed]

Thanks again guys for the input. I should have mentioned that I had the bolt/cocking rod set from the start. The bolt stops just as it clears the feed tube. I ruled that out from the beginning. I'm happy with the cycling now.

I've gotta get a Guage when I get some air then I can move on to sweet spotting the reg and getting the fps set.

[BigRed]

great build! Where did you find that minty benchmark frame?

Thanks! I picked it up from iamthelazerviking last winter.