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Slider frame on a Trilogy?

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    Slider frame on a Trilogy?

    I've got this Trilogy Comp I bought off of Cdn_Cuda about a year and a half ago. Fun little shooter when I feel like using something with more "character" than my Emek. It came to me with a nice red WGP two finger hinge frame, and I like having the extra leverage, but the frame does make the marker awfully tall. I've been toying with the idea of putting a slider on it, but I remember reading somewhere that Trillies don't like sliders, like there was something that needed to be sanded down to make them fit properly or something like that. Anyone recall?

    I presume I'd also need to get an adjustable timing rod to make it fit. Yes, I know I'd have to swap the ram hoeses.

    Anyone have a slider on their Trilogy? How's it working for you?

    I know I should at least spring for a Benchmark or better, but I'm tempted to get an old stock WGP composite slider. That might open the door to embarking on this project I've been considering of building a stock 1998 cocker (well, stock externally visible parts anyway). Despite being an Automag guy, I thought the 98s looked so damned cool when they came out and always kinda wanted one. How much frustration would I be signing up for if I tried using a composite slider on a Trilogy?

    The Automag: Not as clumsy or random as an electro. An elegant marker for a more civilised age.

    www.reddit.com/u/MrBarraclough

    #2
    Works fine . Mine binds a little , but I think it’s just not tuned right. Also make sure your valve retaining nut is totally flush or the slide trigger may not work right.
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      #3


      I've had a slider on my trilogy for over a decade now, they work just fine. I do have an adjustable timing rod with this frame, but previously I had a benchmark double slider on it and I was able to time it properly with just the hammer lug. As Dauntless said, you might have to sand/file down the vale retention screw so it's flush with the body. With mine, I never had to, with others I have.

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        #4
        Shoots excellent! Tinkering required. I also shaved down my valve nut. Used a tech t adjustable rod to get the length needed then bent the timing rod to the same length.

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          #5
          Originally posted by MrBarraclough View Post
          How much frustration would I be signing up for if I tried using a composite slider on a Trilogy?
          As others have stated above, if the valve retention nut protrudes from the bottom of the body it'll need to be ground/filed down so the frame sits against the body properly.

          An adjustable timing rod or re-bending the factory timing rod will likely be required. Try timing it without an adjustable timing rod & see what happens. I tried this with a composite slider & I couldn't get mine timed.
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            #6
            Just a heads-up, the composite frame will likely crack eventually. Bud did not use the same high quality composite materials that Tom Kaye did.
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              #7
              There are other solutions that can be done also. Like having the front of it minied and using a mini frontblock. It will be capable of using standard timing rods, 3ways, lprs and rams. Here is one i did with a custom front block to leave the ram mount. I am working on being able to remove the ram mount on the bodies also to use a standard mini FB altogether and clean it up some.
              BeardedWorks.com (Your Inception Designs and Shocktech Dealer)
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              I buy Automags and Mag Parts also.

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                #8
                Ive yet to encounter a frame that's NOT a bolt on replacement. No need for adjustable timing rod. Just adjust the sear lug, swap hoses, and you're done.

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