Trigger frame recommendations and autofire

[jpdgas]

I've been playing with the dragon for a few months now and something just feels off. I think I'm not used to the sliding trigger, are there any pivot trigger frame recommendations that will work here? Does a pivot single trigger even exist? I'm not even sure what frame I have other than its WGP. Cockers are still a mystery I am unraveling.

Also having an issue with the auto trigger. Normal pump/fire works fine. When I auto trigger it doesn't catch the hammer and wont fire. If I play with the hammer screw a bit it may catch every now and then, but when it fires it has just enough air behind it to roll out the barrel. I've tried going from one extreme to the other with the screw. Any other settings I can check?

[Chuck E Ducky]

Timing sounds off. Adjust the hammer lug so that it fires 1/8” before the back block touches the body. Adjust 1/4 turn at a time till you get it right.

If you have orings on the bolt put smaller ones on and it will smooth the pump stroke out. Pretty sure that return spring goes inside the handle to not the outside.

You could always grab one of Mozaks frames he makes some nice stuff in various popular styles. CCM stuff is really nice as well but you will pay the scalper tax.

If you swap out the frame I would go with a dust black Mozak if it were mine. I really think it’s just a timing issue.

That’s a sweet dragon body BTW.

[jpdgas]

I'll keep playing with the timing. Superman mentioned the trigger plate adjustment, which I haven't tried. Bought this one 2nd hand, and that is where the spring was, I don't see anywhere else for it to go. I'll keep an eye out for Mozak

[superman]

ccm frame. I have some listed in the misc section.
auto trigger should be timed so that it fires with an 1/8th in gap between the back block and body.
If your frame has trigger plate adjustment screws make sure they are adjusted so that the plate sits flat on the bottom of the body and is not sloppy as it will cause those timing issues.

[jpdgas]

Everything about the trigger feels sloppy, I'll try adjusting the trigger plate. You have a link to your frames? I got lost going through your sales posts lol

[Grendel]

Dye made a single swing trigger frame for WGP Autococker/Snipers:



You can also use old school Sniper Pot Metal Frames were stock with swing triggers. They did not become sliders until the advent of the Autococker (derived from the Sniper II). You can also adapt AGD CF Frames to work with snipers. Pretty much any AGD spec frame can be adapted to work on a sniper with a swing trigger but you would have to find the correct swing trigger. superman has some currently I think.

[superman]

I do have the trigger/sear or whatever.
Those frames were really nice for pump play but not using an AT.
Autocockerparts makes copies of those too.

[Grendel]

I will defer to your knowledge since I really do not do AT setups. It did look like the Safety position on the Dye Single Swing is in a different location. Funny thing is Auto-Triggers were originally setup on pot metal frames for Sheridan markers and the setup was easily leveraged with Snipers. I learned to fire a pump rapidly without and AT and now when I try to use them they just plain feel awkward so I never set them up. My Pyre came with one stock but I rarely ever use it or even remember it is capable.

[Jonnydread]

They aren't easy to find, but Sanchez made a single trigger hinge frame for cockers. IIRC he may be back around again so it's possible you could find a new one.

[superman]

Another option would be the inception designs single hinge frames. those were nice too. Not all came with autotriggers, but can be modified to accept it. I have done a few.

[ejacksophoto]

I've been playing with the dragon for a few months now and something just feels off. I think I'm not used to the sliding trigger, are there any pivot trigger frame recommendations that will work here? Does a pivot single trigger even exist? I'm not even sure what frame I have other than its WGP. Cockers are still a mystery I am unraveling.

Also having an issue with the auto trigger. Normal pump/fire works fine. When I auto trigger it doesn't catch the hammer and wont fire. If I play with the hammer screw a bit it may catch every now and then, but when it fires it has just enough air behind it to roll out the barrel. I've tried going from one extreme to the other with the screw. Any other settings I can check?

Single-trigger hinge frames are nice, but rare. As others have said, Mozak Machine is your best bet to get one brand new, however he produces frames and bodies in very limited batches. If you're interested, you should follow on Facebook, which is something that pains me to say as I hate that website, but he is most active there. Otherwise, the only option is to overpay for a rare CCM or Dye single-trigger hinge frame. A Trilogy frame would be the cheapest option, but those are more of a 1.5 finger trigger, and obviously no autotrigger capability there.

In my experience, it isn't worth messing with those universal autotrigger kits for slider frames.That looks like the autocockerparts.com kit, correct? I went insane constantly adjusting the hammer lug and trigger plate when I was trying to make that kit work on one of my builds. It would either single fire and not autotrigger, or autotrigger and not single fire.

I'm done with slide frames after grabbing a Mozak Machine Slender 45 HINGE/SWING Frame with matching autotrigger. I'm not sure if it is the fact that the frame and the autotrigger were made to work together, or if hinge frames are just better for autotrigger than slider frames...or both. Regardless, I actually have a beautiful, functional sniper build now, and I'm happy to pay for new parts and support a small machine shop as opposed to trying to make some old frame work. Especially considering the outrageous prices on single-trigger slide frames these days.

[jpdgas]

I have no idea where the AT came from, it was on the gun when I got it. I'll keep an eye out for Mozak. At least I have a starting point now

[Myrkul]

Can confirm, the universal auto-trigger kits on autocockerparts.com are trash. I've given up fighting with my current one. By the time I sanded it enough to get all the machine lines out of the plate the side to side slop was so ridiculous that it wouldn't function. I was massively disappointed in it, especially after getting one of their slide trigger frames dialed in on a semi. Their slide trigger frames on semis are absolutely awesome. The auto trigger kit....is very much the opposite.

[jpdgas]

Thanks for the info all, I'll play with the timing more to at least get it working while I look for a frame.
Follow up question to further expose my ignorance...Is this a 2k or pre2k body? I'll probably need a bolt soon as one of the bearings keeps falling out of this one.

[superman]

2k+

[iamthelazerviking]

Those ACP auto triggers just aren't that great, I've never liked the feel and always had issues. A CCM marker is the only one AT has felt good but I don't ever use AT, which is always my recommendation 😁

[Cdn_Cuda]

I have one of these but done as a mech. Love these bodies. Just be careful the auto trigger doesn't mark the body, I prefer my pumps without auto triggers personally. I have CCM single finger triggers on my snipers, they feel great, but are now just stupidly expensive now. I have an ID Rip frame on my Dragon. Great frame, but I haven't tried an ID single finger frame. With a nice body like that you want a nice trigger frame, so avoid the trilogy 1.5 frames.

[$L!mBo]

Well Ill be the contrarian here and say, Ive installed/"tuned" 4 acp a/t slide frame kits and like them just fine! Yes, it is a bit time consuming and frustrating. Read and FOLLOW THE INCLUDED DIRECTIONS!
Once setup, myself and the folks ive done them for have had zero issues with them. set it and forget it, ive found them to be smooth and reliable.
An important note:
In all these cases, the ACP frame was also used! obviously, the kit was built around this frame. so while the description might say "universal", best fit and function will be in conjunction with their frame(s). i think they also offer a single finger hinge now too?
i wouldnt recommend taking any material off the sides of the trigger plates. the usual contact surfaces (top where the plate contacts the body, the ramp) can be lightly polished but ive only ever silicone greased these areas and had smooth action, with no binding.
another argument ive heard in favor of installing a/t is that the connecting link gives you another point to prevent rotation and provide better feel. a tangible benefit even if youre not using it to shoot faster

heres my old sniper that was sold to Melrosejedi and setup for stock class