Got a Trilogy comp on the way - upgrades?

[JoeSchitt]

Hello all, I'm brand new to Autocockers and decided to snag a Trilogy since they're more foolproof. I have WGP Trilogy Comp on the way (red/black, fully stock). I plan on throwing an on/off ASA and a freak barrel system onto the marker.

I was curious, how are the stock internals and stock regulator? Should I upgrade the bolt? Valve? etc? How easy are the regulators to work on? Was curious if I should upgrade any of this stuff or if these markers are good in stock configuration.

Thanks!

[Jonnydread]

It really depends on your personal taste. out of the box with a decent barrel it will shoot just fine. If you want to get into the reeds of tuning you could replace all the parts listed, but you will see diminishing returns on overall performance unless you're trying to tweak a specific parameter (operating pressure, sound signature, etc.). These bodies can take the Lazarus valve, but that can be headache to tune so be warned.

I'd say start with the ASA and barrel you already have and see how it plays, then you'll have an idea of where you want to go next. I have a stock Trilogy Sport that shoots great and I have never felt the need to upgrade.

They're really fun markers and IMO on par with "normal" cockers generally speaking. Enjoy!

[JoeSchitt]

Appreciate the advice! I think I will do an on/off ASA with macroline/stock reg and a freak barrel and get to playing!

[Heavy_D]

Trillys are fun, and are great shooters, I had a POS trilly sport body someone had made a couple cuts to the feedneck on, so I had a Friend Airbrush the body, and I put wayy to much money into a $40 gun, but I love it haha...
WGP double frame, Tech T adjustable 3 way rod, Palmers Trilogy Micro Rock LPR, Dye Lazarus Valve, Lightest hammers spring from inceptions designs, Shocktech Superfly Bolt, Inceptions V2 HPR. run either a Freak OG kit or Dye UL barrels on it. Fun markers.

I also have a totally stock Trilly sport, that shoots great and is reliable AF too, best upgrade is a properly bore sized barrel.

[BrickHaus]

" put way too much into a $40 gun" is why we are all here!

Hahaha, I was mentally tallying my b2k build today. It was an $100 dollar bushy. Custom machining work, aka lpr, nova hpr, vapor work trigger, inception designs feedneck, ect.. I've easily tripled the overall cost of my b2k, and I will NEVER be able to sell it for the cost I have into it. But it's awesome.

[Myrkul]

BrickHaus Ya..... That's weirdly the beauty of them though. If you know you can't sell it and are "stuck with it" then suddenly you start looking at it very
differently. Too many things in our society revolve around money anyway. It's refreshing to just remove that from the equation straight out the gate and move the focus on to what's left, which is just having fun with it. Unless I'm mistaken, just having fun is really what paintball is all about in the first place.

[Psycho91]

I'm currently building 2 trilogys, Johnny pretty much hit the nail on the head it just depends on what you want out of them, stock they just work,

Jonnydread i have a laz valve sitting im gonna put into one of mine, are they really a headache to tune if im not trying to squeeze every bit of performance out of it, or would it save me the hassle if I just used a stock valve or something like the RAT, these are my first real cocker builds

[Jonnydread]

I have not tuned one myself, but multiple of my guys have and have reported it’s cool, but kind of a pain in the ass to get just so. If you already have one I’d say you got nothing to lose to try it out, just be ready for a lot of spring and reg adjusting.

[latches109]

I've installed 9 so far. It's very straight forward install. Start at 180PSI and a light hammer spring with the stock hammer, IVG flush. You should be good to go. Stock regulator is consistent but terrible flow at low pressure - reg is fine at the stock 350psi- but at lower pressures, can cause issues when shooting fast. Replace the reg if you are shooting low pressure mech.

[BrickHaus]

I had no issue getting my laz valve dialed in. I pre set my regulator to 200 psi, so once I had it all together, I simply had to back off of the input pressure a bit til I found velocity. I've also not done much more than that.

I have 2 friends whom have had issues tuning their laz valves, one was specifically in a ressi, but they lack the chamber volume a trilly has.

[BrickHaus]

Also. Trilogies are a blast. I got mine as an upgraded pump, but I like it more than my ccm t2.

[flyweightnate]

I think the most important thing on the Comp is a barrel kit; after that, a feedneck mod unless your hopper happens to fit just right.

Once that's good, I prefer a delrin bolt, but it doesn't need it at all if you remember to keep things clean and oiled.

I like the stock internals, simply because I know they all work together. I had an Empire Sniper with a Morph and it was great, and I have a Lazarus on my desk if I get around to using it, but sometimes I just want a daily driver experience. My insanity is reserved for modded pump guns these days.

[OpusX]

Yeah just do a bored barrel for no roll outs and then tune and play. Springs and patience with sweet spotting will get her running. I have a mechanically stock Trilly Pro and though the stock HPR and LPR and a pain to adjust, once set they perform very well.

Edit: As for springs I think I have an SLPS hammer spring and a black light Spyder main spring on the valve. (I think the Spyder springs for the valve are the secret sauce)

[Jordan]

I prefer the PPS LT valve over a Lazarus, but the 11/16" Palmers valves are tough to find.

[Jonnydread]

Same, I love those valves

[latches109]

what spring do you guys use with the PPS valve? I want to test one now

[Magmoormaster]

Come on guys, you're not allowed to talk about trilogies without meeeeeee!!!!!

Here's mine:


I generally agree with the consensus. I've upgraded just about everything on my trilogy, and for the most part it isn't worth it. Most of the stock components will work just fine, and you'll see little to no meaningful improvement if you do upgrade.You're on the right track; a freak or similar barrel you can underbore, an on/off ASA are a great start. I'd look at at doing some sort of clamping feedneck mod as well.

From there, a lot of people (myself included) prefer slider frames instead of the stock hinge. I actually really like the stock hinge, and slider frames are more complicated to set up (what internals to use, getting the proper glide screws, etc), so don't feel like you need to swap that out. But it is a reasonable thing to do.

A lot of people recommend externally adjustable regs... I have them on mine, and it is convenient. But you're looking at around $100 for something you'll rarely mess with. The stock regs perform very well; they're consistent and reliable. This would be one of my last upgrades.

Bolts are another one I'd pass on. You'll probably get a tiny increase of efficiency with an AKA Lightning bolt, and they're lighter so theoretically you can lower LPR pressure and get less kick. But eh. I'd do this before regs, but it's a veeery low priority.

Valves are a tough one. I swear up and down that the morph valve (and likely the laz valve, similar product) is the best upgrade you can make to a trilogy, but they are not easy to set up. They require a high-level ability to tune. Once they work, they're uuuuh-mazing. But it's a lot of work to get there. Being new to cockers, I'd avoid it. Regarding other valves, be it CCM, AKA, PPS, ID, or Shocktech, I'd say nah. The stock valve does very well when tuned properly. And stock, they're basically there. Just be aware that the stock springs degrade pretty quickly. Your velocity will slowly go down beyond the point of being playable. So you'll need to replace them eventually. I did the morph valve when I hit that point.

So yeah; ASA, barrel, feedneck. Play with it, adn decide from there if you want a different trigger. From there, I'd leave it alone and just play with it.

Two small tips; #1 the back block is set too close to the body from the factory. I broke a bolt pin because of this. Take the bolt out, take the cocking rock out, and turn the back block out one full turn. You'll be good to go there. #2 the LPR is also set very high from the factory, making it a bit rougher on paint and a bit kickier than they need to be. I used to remember the number of turns it took to sweetspot it, but alas, no longer. But yeah, sweetspot the LPR and it'll shoot a bit better.

My trilogy is my all-time favorite gun, even compared to $2000+ custom cockers. Part of that is nostalgia/sentimentality, as it was the first gun I bought myself. But they're also just better guns tbh.

[JoeSchitt]

Wow, beautiful Trilogy! And appreciate all the tips! I was curious, would you happen to know if the stock regulator is adjustable via allen key? Or would I need to take it apart to adjust it? Was also wondering the same for the LPR (internally adjusted?)

[Magmoormaster]

JoeSchitt Both are adjustable with a flathead screwdriver from inside. The LPR needs to be unthreaded from the body of the gun, ad the base of the HPR needs to be removed, or you can remove the air line/fitting.

[Psycho91]

If I remember correctly from chatting with magmoprmaster years ago you can turn the lpr down 1 full turn and be just fine

[latches109]

trilogies are fun to build. Here is my last one. halfbocked with a well modified laz valve, inception hammer. This operates at staggering 135psi @ 290FPS. *I can not reproduce that low pressure on any other marker.

[latches109]

Super light 2” spring, IVG flush. I have taken the exact lower tube and put it in 3 other markers all 170psi and up. It goes in this one and like magic is back at 135. I don’t know why yet,

[Myrkul]

latches109 that's the kind of wizardy I'm hear for! Maybe check the airflow holes to see if something was mismachined larger somewhere?

[latches109]

Myrkul I’ll take a bore gauge to it.

[MrBarraclough]

Trillies aren't made for tuning within an inch of their lives, but on the other hand, they don't really need it.

The stock HPR works well enough; it's just a pain to adjust. But thankfully once you get it set right you shouldn't need to touch it. I dropped a Lazarus valve in my Trilogy Comp, set the HPR to around 200psi or maybe slightly over, and swapped in the lightest main spring from the Inception spring kit. Gun runs great, though I still have yet to go back and turn down the LPR, and my dumb ass got a little too aggressive with the timing and backed out the hammer lug more than is advisable. I have since turned it in further so it once again reliably catches on the sear.

I highly recommend Inception's main spring kit and their IVG that allows for adjustment without removing the cocking rod. Makes things go so much faster at the chrono station.

[JoeSchitt]

Been enjoying my new to me WGP Trilogy Comp! I’ve put about half a case through it so far! Other than a CP reg, macro line, and a Gog Extcy on/off Asa I had laying around, it’s fully stock. I intend on getting that new CP regulator sweet spotted and potentially doing some upgrades in the future.