Good morning, hoping someone can help ID this valve from my poor pictures and description. It’s sitting in an 05 Black Magic autococker. It’s tight as a tiger in there and I can’t get it out. I gave it a whack or two with a mallet/wood dowel from the front and it’s not budging. It’s not leaking or causing any problems so I don’t want to create a problem with more mallet-ing. There’s no traditional valve spring. Looks like the hammer hits the valve and there’s a spring in the valve the closes it after the shot. Through the front there’s the face of the valve with a hole. Through the back there’s the rear face of the valve with the moving/protruding piece that the hammer hits. After an extensive Google search it doesn’t look like anything I’m seeing, but it’s a little hard with the valve still in the body. Thanks in advance!
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They are 11/16 so it should just push out the back....
Did you remove the set screw? -
Thank you, yes I removed the set screw. It didn’t budge at all after a healthy mallet strike. It’s not leaking or causing any issues so I didn’t keep hitting it for fear of giving myself a problem that I’d then have to fix, or not being able to get it back in in the end. I think the only WGP part is the body. Everything else is a combination of Dye and ID parts, just curious what valve is in there.Comment
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Some of the CCM valves were oversized it's possible that someone machined one and the raw aluminum corroded in place.
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Try some penetrating oil and let it seep in. I've had a few valves need a little more love to removed than others.
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Thanks everyone, I was able to find the builder on here and it’s an Inception valve.Comment
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Was there a ¹¹/¹⁶ Rocket Valve produced? That's the first valve that comes to mind with that sort of valve spring.Comment
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Yeah after looking up inception valves for a while I don’t see any that don’t use a traditional valve spring. I didn’t come across any valves that look like this one on the two ends that I can see, so that sucks lolComment
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If it was an inception valve you would be able to tell from the valve pin and cup seal. They are unique.
They take special springs to that are cone shaped. Standard ones don’t fit them.
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you can use a thick Allen wrench and stick it into the valve nut hole to leverage the vlave back... take care not to damage the threads.Comment
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Thanks again everyone! I tried the Allen wrench in the thread area with no luck and threw caution to the wind and gave it a couple more healthy whacks with a dowel and mallet and it didn’t budge at all. I think this one’s going to fall into the leave it well enough alone category before I a) break it, 2) get it out and need an oring size that I don’t have on hand, or d) get it out and can’t get it back in (Home Alone anyone?). It’s functional and not leaking, and as much as I adhere to the “fix it ‘til it’s broken” method, I think I’ll quit while I’m ahead. I appreciate everyone’s input. If anyone recognizes what it may be please let me know.Comment
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The hole (1st pic) is facing the front towards the pump handle (soon to be front block/pneumatics). When I took off the pump assembly there’s nothing in there between the threads for the front block screw and the valve. The back part of the valve (pic 2) has the protruding piece that the hammer hits. There must be a spring in the valve itself as when I push the protruding piece in it pops back out. Nothing pokes out the front when I push it in from the rear. Behind the valve is the regular hammer, spring, and ivg.Comment
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Definitely not madman, those come to a clear point. Turtle valves are flat. The only squares off one I can think of for cocker is a morph valve. Someone jamming a spider valve in there does make sense.
Can you post a photo of the other side through the trigger a slot?Comment
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Some better pictures with better lighting. Can see the spring in there now.Comment
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These bodies don't have a spring perch in front of it do they that's milled into the bodyComment
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