Worrframe Seemingly Dead

[RhoXi]

I picked up a Superstock from a member sometime last fall. It worked fine when I recieved it and everything was good. He did warn me that the membrane pad can be a bit touchy and he wasn't wrong but a good press always seemed to work. I put it away with a battery in it a couple months ago to see what the battery drain was like. Then when I pulled it back out the other evening it was dead. No big deal, I threw one of my test batteries I keep around on the bench. Still dead. Ok, I put a brand new battery straight out of the box in it. Still won't turn on. Crap.

So now I've got a couple of theories as to what's going on. I think either the membrane pad or the main board is kaput but I want a way to know which one for sure. Is there any way I can check to see if the membrane is recieving good voltage (I assume that's how it works anyway)? Or perhaps can I unhook the membrane and short two of the pins to get the board to fully power up? Then there's the nuclear option on converting it to mech but that defeats the point of getting an ecocker to begin with. Your thoughts if you please. Thank you.

[Magmoormaster]

Well, let's start with the stupid.... You sure that new battery is in fact good? It's not "common" per se but getting a dead battery from a new package happens with some regularity. Have you tried the battery on a different gun or on a tester to make sure it was good?

But yeah, worrframe membranes are notorious for going bad. It's most likely just the membrane that's dead, but yeah definitely hit it with a volt meter to find out for sure. Not sure how you can test those ribbon cables but I'm sure there's a way.

[nerdcore]

Curious to see how it's wired under the membrane, and if the button/switch can be fixed.

If i found the right worrframe manual, it illustrates a 4pin single button led membrane pad, which doesn't seem to be readily available as a generic item. Only seeing a 3pin version.

[RhoXi]

Have you tried the battery on a different gun or on a tester to make sure it was good?

Good call. Just tried in in my Angel and it works fine. I seem to have misplaced my volt meter though so I'll probably bring it to work tomorrow and check it there.

Curious to see how it's wired under the membrane, and if the button/switch can be fixed.

If i found the right worrframe manual, it illustrates a 4pin single button led membrane pad, which doesn't seem to be readily available as a generic item. Only seeing a 3pin version.

I'm hesitant to peel off the membrane lest I damage it or it can't be re-applied. But then again, it wouldn't be much worse than my current situarion. I'll have to think about it some more.

Overall though, I'm scratching my head as to how a membrane switch could go bad just sitting in my basement. It would be a funny coincidence that its last use was the straw that broke the camel's back so to speak.

[nerdcore]

Overall though, I'm scratching my head as to how a membrane switch could go bad just sitting in my basement. It would be a funny coincidence that its last use was the straw that broke the camel's back so to speak.

If it's a cheap membrane pad, it could simply deteriorate over time, in addition to use. The worrframe manual i found has a copyright of 2005. If the frame is that old, my gosh. Electronics overall are running on pure magic beyond 10 yrs.

[MrKittyCatMeowFace]

A lot of new cars are gonna be completely junked in a few years. Simply from bad electronics. Eventually even old cars need electrical work. And good luck sorting out electrical issues on a 30-40+ year old car. Not saying it's impossible. But not in the cards for most people.

[RhoXi]

Fair point.

[RhoXi]

Follow up question for y'all: how badly does it suck to try and use an Eblade or SciFi board in one of these without external access to the buttons? I don't like how the stock board is un-adjustable anyways so this might be a good oportunity to upgrade.

[RhoXi]

Ok, I relented and pulled the membrane off. I don't see anything suspicious but I could be wrong.

The logo looks like a stylized VJ I think. The numbers 12-2004 48180-1.

Edit: the connector on the other end says HX-543

[nerdcore]

Ok, I relented and pulled the membrane off. I don't see anything suspicious but I could be wrong.

The logo looks like a stylized VJ I think. The numbers 12-2004 48180-1.

Edit: the connector on the other end says HX-543

Try cleaning off the back of the button, and its corresponding contact points on the ribbon. Use isopropyl alcohol. 91% should be good enough. Hopefully all the discoloration is just gunk or residue, and not burnt traces. Looks like the 4 points of the button contact that U- or C-shaped part, and pressing the button completes the circuit with the dot in the center. You could test it by just jumping the C-shape with the center dot using a wire.

[RhoXi]

I was able to put a volt meter to it this afternoon and there's no continuity between the switch contact and the connector. Jumping the C and the dot does nothing. I was able to get it to turn on by jumping the pins on the board and noticed yellow led lights up but the red doesn't. The ribbon is definitely bad. I guess I gotta get familiar with membrane switch manufacturers now.

[Iseeo_0you]

Please, which two pins did you short to get it to turn on? I'm having a similar issue with mine. I can't tell if i fried the board years ago when I had to do a re-solder of the battery terminals that started to separate from the board, or if the membrane switch is bad. I began by checking continuity on the membrane switch with it depressed and nothing, and then moved on to trying to short the board but It's probably going to fry something. Thus far no luck getting it to turn on.

[RhoXi]

Short the two outer pins together. The two inner pins are the + voltage for the LEDs, the outside left is switch +, and the outside right is common -. The way I did it was I left the membrane plugged in and used a piece of solder to jumper the little contacts together on the outside of the connector, that way I still had the status LEDs to tell me what was going on. The contacts are very small so it can be tricky. If that doesn't work, the do it without the membrane plugged in and just test it by clicking the trigger.

[Iseeo_0you]

You are the man, it's working . I tried doing this the other night with jumper wires to no avail. I guess I needed to jump it and hold for a few seconds instead of leaving it jumped. Not making any promises because it might be a bit out of my league, but I'm working on trying to design a replacement switch in KiCad/EasyEDA. If I can get it worked out you are on my list

[nerdcore]

Autocockerparts.com had gauged interest on a new run of them on FB a few years ago, prior to the switch to worrgameproducts.com. I'm not on FB, though, so not sure what they ended up doing. May be worth reaching out to them for leads on where/how to get one made.

[RhoXi]

I'm not on facebook but it might be worth shooting them an email I reckon. Thanks for the help.

[woouulf]

Autocockerparts.com had gauged interest on a new run of them on FB a few years ago, prior to the switch to worrgameproducts.com. I'm not on FB, though, so not sure what they ended up doing. May be worth reaching out to them for leads on where/how to get one made.

There wasn't enough interest to invest in having these manufactured... He does have interest in having new e-frames made, we'll see how that turns out...