Bob Long’s Defiant Rebuild Thread

[Cdn_Cuda]

Now I can remove the valve and replace those ancient o-rings!


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[Cdn_Cuda]

In removing the HPR adaptor I also had to remove the plate the solenoid attaches to. Sure ensure underneath are another few o-ring, that thankful look in great condition.

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[Myrkul]

I would probably still replace these just because of age. It's a #015 and two #006. 70 duro should be fine.

[Cdn_Cuda]

And the saddest part on the old marker, it’s well work detent which I think is dead….

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[Myrkul]

Soak it in oil. Then carefully pop a small hole in the back. Use a tooth pick or something to bust the ball bearing free. Then just work it a bunch and keep hitting it with paper towels to clean the gunk out.

[Cdn_Cuda]

Now for further help, I’m going to cheat and reference Myrkul Build thread which shows how to properly work on the markers: https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/c...ombie-lachesis

Need to get the LPR apart so I can get some new o-rings in it.

[Cdn_Cuda]

After studying Myrkel’s thread I’m back at it! One thing about markers this old they were not made for user friendly disassembly!

I picked the ram as my first adversary. Starting woth a blast from the blowdryer and some brutal force and tools. The end needs to removed from the ram before you can take it apart and fix the internal orings.

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Once it gave in, disassembly was easy;

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And don’t forget the innternal o-ring on the ram. Yup, it’s one of those royal pain in the butt ones, but a piece of macroline and a pick managed to convince the oring to get into the internal groove.

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[Myrkul]

Be sure to polish those pliers marks out of the ram shaft. Location looks like it is far enough back, but if there are any sharp edges you'll end up replacing the #010 more frequently the otherwise.

[Cdn_Cuda]

Will do! Tried hard to not make any, but was impossible to remove otherwise.

[Myrkul]

Sometimes they are just like that. As long as they are polished at least somewhat smooth and it doesn't leak you should be fine.

[Cdn_Cuda]

Next up is the LPR. Thankfully it came apart a lot easier than expected!

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I do need to check the position of the small spring though as I may have it reversed.

[Myrkul]

Direction shouldn't matter on the small spring. What does the cup face look like and the seat itself? Those are the problem areas. The brass cup face has to be absolutely perfect to seal. Luckily that's easy to polish. The bigger problem is finding seats right now, in theory you can flip them but I haven't had much luck doing that. Worst case scenario there is always AKA available. They have better airflow to the noid and a trimmed down valve stem for extra valve chamber volume, but are kinda pricey.

[Cdn_Cuda]

Have the marker largely reassembled and decided to test the board out (maybe should have done first… eh.). And nothing happens. Going to check the wires next, given their age. I have a space battery harness kicking around.

[Myrkul]

The hot glue on the board to harness connector in your photos makes me suspect that's where the problem is...Vaporworks is still making new harness for these, I'd probably just scoop one of those up. Board itself is likely fine.

[Cdn_Cuda]

Myrkul. Good to know! Going to have to make a decision on whether I spend money on it, or pass it on to someone else to bring it back to life. Between the exchange and shipping it gets expensive pretty quick.

[Cdn_Cuda]

Trying to see if I can get the electronics to work, but not having much luck. Attached a new battery harness:

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But found a broken pin in the connector.
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Even with the fixed battery connector, no signs of life.

[Cdn_Cuda]

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[William the Third]

But I don't want to spend a lot of money.

[Myrkul]

@William the Third

You aren't wrong. 😂

[BrickHaus]

You can salvage that. Just swap the whole header.

I'm not 100% on the spacing, but Im fairly sure this plug would work.

https://www.digikey.com/short/mtm52m9f

[Frmrspec]

So fun fact.. ICD kept the same exact wiring/pin out for ALL their markers all the way through the promaster… and yes they clipped one of the pins from factory. You are actually missing your LED (or it fell into the battery tray)

the biggest difference between older marker boards and their later ones was they moved the micro switch onto the board instead of the wiring harness.. AND that pinout/wiring orientation/position is the same as morlock boards!

[Myrkul]

Hopefully this is helpful, you should be able to ignore the PDS wires and just focus on everything for how your harness should look when finished.

[RustyShackleford]

that is freaking cool dude

[GlocksInMySocks]

This is awesome… I still kick my ass about selling my old defiant