Please help! Finally getting around to repairs and I lost all my manuals and notes!

[1nfluxh4x]

Hello! This is my first post on this site because I am finally trying to get back into the sport. I played back in the 90's and 2000's but my Defiant(1st gen bushmaster) needed some repairs and then the whole scene fell apart in my area after the guy who was connected with the league in my area got arrested for some shady stuff. Kinda killed the whole vibe for me and I stopped playing between needing to do a repair and knowing i would have to drive 2hrs+ to stay on a tournament team. My on/off switch broke and then one day when i was taking the switch out to replace it, the solenoid slipped and yanked the rest of the harness on the floor. I already replaced the switch once, so it has a blob of solder(i was very young so I know it looks like trash LOL) on the power wire and then the solenoid had one wire come out of the harness. I was hoping someone could help me out and make sure I wire everything back up correctly and test to make sure everything is still running good. Here are some photos of the wire loom, the "lower" where the chip is stored with photos of the chip so you can see there is no damage to it, and a photo of the gun with the parts I have left but I kept all the original stuff and sold my aftermarket barrels and tanks when I stopped playing. If anyone wouldn't mind confirming/helping me make sure I rewire the original ICD rev 1.01 board with all original parts. The caps are still good and the board has 0 rust or damage to it. Only thing im scared of is maybe it got shorted when the switch was messing up and it could have damaged the board but i think it was more of the fact that the solenoid had a wire coming out that I didn't notice at the time. Was very young and didn't know near as much about electronics and tinkering as I do today so I would have probably fried it before I even got close to fixing it back when I was 15-18 and playing matches with that gun all the time. I'm not even 100% sure the LED is working or not right now so I am going to have to use my voltmeter to check when i plug everything up to make sure it's still good. I don't want to run a hot to a bad terminal and fry my board so please let me know how to approach this and fix it. I have tons of breadboards/wires/pins/etc I use for IoT/electronic tinkering so I probably have everything except the actual power switch on hand right now. The wires broke off of the trigger switch so I need to make sure I have those wired correctly and not backwards as well. Here are the photos and I hope I can get some help and thanks to anyone who lends a hand!

[Cdn_Cuda]

This might help a little bit:
https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/p...rebuild-thread

Myrkul is a wizard for this markers. Post 27 of that thread his provides a wiring diagram.

[AaronM]

Hey man, there's a cool wiring diagram towards the bottom of page 2: Bob Long’s Defiant Rebuild Thread - mcarterbrown.com - Best Paintball Forum on the Internet

From what I can see, it looks like you need to connect the blue solenoid wire into terminal 1 and wire from terminal 7 to the solenoid. The positive wire to the battery harness (terminal 6) needs some fixing up as well. You could redo the connections and heatshrink or just buy a replacement for a few bucks.

Your trigger switch connections (3 and 9) can be tested by probing the center terminal of the microswitch while in continuity mode. The other goes to one of the outer terminals. If it beeps normally and stops beeping when you press the switch it is the wrong terminal. If it does not beep until you press the switch, then you found the right one. I'm pretty sure the voltage is so low you won't short anything if you get it wrong.

EDIT: OOPS Cdn_Cuda beat me to it

[Myrkul]

You can follow the diagram Cdn_Cuda a linked, OR you can just order a new one from goldie.

https://www.vaporworks.net/?product=...wiring-harness

I would absolutely just order a new harness in this situation....there doesn't even look like there is enough of a harness left to repair on that one.

Be sure to check out my rebuild guide on these too, that should cover just about everything you need to get this beauty into tip top shape and slinging paint again!

https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/p...r-2000-rebuild

[OpusX]

There is also a generic "roll your own" you can snag from DigiKey Molex 0511100850-06-A-6-Y-ND https://www.digikey.com/en/products/...A-6-Y/16499900

Hope you get this one back on the field. Green fade Defiant is very pretty.

[1nfluxh4x]

Thanks so much Myrkul! Your breakdown is great but has me freaking out about all my other parts since I haven't taken the gun apart since probably 2007 or 2008 haha. It was running perfectly until my harness gave out and at least I already have a bunch of o-rings and springs to replace all the old ones, so hopefully it just needs a cleaning and some rings. I know that I put a few aftermarket parts on it after I purchased it but it's been so long that I have forgotten exactly what the upgrades were/companies that made them/etc. I know I changed my pressure reg's. It looks like it was a full kit that came together. It has a K in white with a black "oval" behind the K to make it show because the gauge is white with 0-1000psi and has a GIANT flathead on the faces for pressure adjustments on both regs. I know I need a new grip because mine has warped beyond use. So i'm open to buying new wiring harness and other parts but I want to try and stay as "timeframe original" with minimal mods for modern paint. It's been so long I had no idea they shrunk the size of the paint that much. I have just started working on it because I want to get back into everything and found a few fields and tourney field pretty close, even found my old jersey and playing pants and they still had the double swab quick barrel cleaner stuck in the slot on the side of the leg hahaha! Going to start walking through your rebuild Myrkul but noticed that your ICD frame has 2 spots for ball detents and I only have 1(ill probably have to swap) in my frame, did you add that(drilled into the frame to add it in) second detent? I was looking at buying an "eye/chop stopper" as people called them when we were playing but I never got around to it. All the eye's I saw back in the day only ran off the 1 ball detent and just ran wiring down into the frame to piggy-back off the board power. Also your feed neck is considerably shorter and thinner in your tutorial than what's on my marker currently. Is that an aftermarket part, or can I just chop mine down and still use it? Are the slits in the feed neck there to allow the "clamping mechanism" to lock down on the neck to hold the hopper? the metal on my feed neck seems WAY too thick compared to the one showed in your breakdown to be able to have any clamp make a difference so I don't know if I should cut it. I have no issue/problem machining my marker, I just don't want to go cutting on something that will destroy the marker/part without me understanding why im cutting it(very hands on learner so photos and actually doing it help a lot). It appears that my marker was either the first or second gen's before they worked out some of the issues because I do have a delrin bolt but it doesn't have the double detents and the overly tall feedneck. I have a big event this weekend so I won't really be able to get into the gun until next week most likely. If photos would help you identify what upgrades I have vs what is still stock on the gun, I can provide those. Opus, I was thinking of building my own harness since I assumed due to the age of the gun there wouldn't be any parts out there, especially something like the wiring harness for the stock board. I even looked at installing a rasp pi board or something like that and program it myself but I decided against it because I was trying to stay as original as possible because I could just go buy an Angel or a new marker and it would have the bluetooth and all the fancy shmancy stuff that I would install on the custom board I would install anyway. I don't want to go cutting on this frame to install and LCD screen on it or anything like that. I want to try and keep it as original/time period correct as possible. Thanks for the help so far and going to start with some of the breakdown over the next few days/weekend as I have time since this is an extremely busy weekend for me. Found my old manual and started dying laughing.. in one of the descriptions of checking for leaks it says "hear a leak down the barrel? remove all pressure from the gun and then put your ear next to the gun. still hear the sound? that's the ocean." hahaha!! Man I miss this. Can't wait to get back into it and get back to my tourney days!!

[Myrkul]

Thanks so much Myrkul! Your breakdown is great but has me freaking out about all my other parts since I haven't taken the gun apart since probably 2007 or 2008 haha. It was running perfectly until my harness gave out and at least I already have a bunch of o-rings and springs to replace all the old ones, so hopefully it just needs a cleaning and some rings.

It will definitely need all new "o" rings, there is a solid chance the cup seal is still good, and those are still available from ICD. The reg seats are going to be the big question, since those are becoming difficult to find now.

I know that I put a few aftermarket parts on it after I purchased it but it's been so long that I have forgotten exactly what the upgrades were/companies that made them/etc. I know I changed my pressure reg's. It looks like it was a full kit that came together. It has a K in white with a black "oval" behind the K to make it show because the gauge is white with 0-1000psi and has a GIANT flathead on the faces for pressure adjustments on both regs.

Both the pictures you have already posted and the large flat head adjustments means this is running stock ICD regs, possibly with some internal updates/aftermarket parts in them.

I know I need a new grip because mine has warped beyond use.

I am like 99% sure these originally used APP Grips. Unfortunately APP just recently went under, but its not too difficult to find their grips and there has been a lot of their old inventory being sold on ebay lately.

So i'm open to buying new wiring harness and other parts but I want to try and stay as "timeframe original" with minimal mods for modern paint. It's been so long I had no idea they shrunk the size of the paint that much. I have just started working on it because I want to get back into everything and found a few fields and tourney field pretty close, even found my old jersey and playing pants and they still had the double swab quick barrel cleaner stuck in the slot on the side of the leg hahaha! Going to start walking through your rebuild Myrkul but noticed that your ICD frame has 2 spots for ball detents and I only have 1(ill probably have to swap) in my frame, did you add that(drilled into the frame to add it in) second detent?

I added the second detent to the body with the assistance of KCCockerDoc . I actually do that on almost all of my Bushmasters, I did the first on on my dad's drill press....17 years ago now?

I was looking at buying an "eye/chop stopper" as people called them when we were playing but I never got around to it. All the eye's I saw back in the day only ran off the 1 ball detent and just ran wiring down into the frame to piggy-back off the board power.

Eyes didn't start appearing on Factory Bushmasters until 2003 or 2004. Its a relatively detailed and difficult modification (way harder then just adding a second detent anyway). Vaporworks used to offer the mod as an upgrade service, but I don't believe goldie is currently set up to still offer it as a service.

Also your feed neck is considerably shorter and thinner in your tutorial than what's on my marker currently. Is that an aftermarket part, or can I just chop mine down and still use it? Are the slits in the feed neck there to allow the "clamping mechanism" to lock down on the neck to hold the hopper? the metal on my feed neck seems WAY too thick compared to the one showed in your breakdown to be able to have any clamp make a difference so I don't know if I should cut it. I have no issue/problem machining my marker, I just don't want to go cutting on something that will destroy the marker/part without me understanding why im cutting it(very hands on learner so photos and actually doing it help a lot).

The feedneck is an aftermarket CCM no-pro. I would strongly recommend milling down your current feedneck into a stub so it can use any modern loader and is clamping. superman has done a number of them for me and his work is fantastic. You can also send him your bolt and he can cut the "o" ring grooves and ramp as well.

It appears that my marker was either the first or second gen's before they worked out some of the issues because I do have a delrin bolt but it doesn't have the double detents and the overly tall feedneck.

All bushmasters have Delrin bolts, and none of the factory bushmaster had dual ball bearing detents or clamping feednecks. I use these guns pretty frequently and run them pretty hard, so it's important for me to add those features. The Defiant 2 came out long after the Original Defiant. Yours is a Basic Gen 1 Defiant, likely from late 1998 or 1999.

I have a big event this weekend so I won't really be able to get into the gun until next week most likely. If photos would help you identify what upgrades I have vs what is still stock on the gun, I can provide those.

Everything looks to be stock.

Opus, I was thinking of building my own harness since I assumed due to the age of the gun there wouldn't be any parts out there, especially something like the wiring harness for the stock board. I even looked at installing a rasp pi board or something like that and program it myself but I decided against it because I was trying to stay as original as possible because I could just go buy an Angel or a new marker and it would have the bluetooth and all the fancy shmancy stuff that I would install on the custom board I would install anyway. I don't want to go cutting on this frame to install and LCD screen on it or anything like that. I want to try and keep it as original/time period correct as possible.

Vaporworks has Bushmaster Chaos Boards still avalible. They are affordably priced, and have all the adjustments you would ever need. Rate of fire, firing mode, dwell, etc. etc. Vaporworks started in 2001, so a chaos board would still be period correct too.

Thanks for the help so far and going to start with some of the breakdown over the next few days/weekend as I have time since this is an extremely busy weekend for me. Found my old manual and started dying laughing.. in one of the descriptions of checking for leaks it says "hear a leak down the barrel? remove all pressure from the gun and then put your ear next to the gun. still hear the sound? that's the ocean." hahaha!! Man I miss this. Can't wait to get back into it and get back to my tourney days!!

That line always made me chuckle as well.

Please don't hesitate to let me know if you have any additional questions or if you need any extra help!

[OpusX]

I am partial to the Morlock boards from curt https://www.morlockboards.com/ . If you want all of the led screen, bluetooth, wifi, stuff it is a wonderful "universal" board and have put them in a few bushies.

[1nfluxh4x]

So I've finally got some free time to get around to my marker. I have it completely disassembled and all the parts ready to be addressed. Waiting on the wiring harness I ordered in the mail(I felt like the $20 was worth skipping the headache of rewiring the harness myself) I have the 2nd reg that I had laying next to the gun and thought it was the original, so I guess that is the aftermarket one I used to use and then swapped back to my original HP side. Unsure why I did it because it was so long ago. There is no branding on the other one but it's about 2-4x the size of the stock one and since there are no gauges or anything on it, I have no idea the pressures and such that I would get from it. I don't want to go too far into the "maybe it was this" but I do remember I had to do several part swaps when i swapped from CO2 to compressed air when I upgraded to a fiberglass tank from CO2. My detent is solid as a rock, so i have it soaking in penetrating lube right now, hoping that will help a lot. I used to have the DYE "boomstick" barrel system on here(the one with the aluminum back and then different length fronts to give you multi-barrel length options without changing the full barrel, please correct me if I'm wrong on the barrel name/system), if I remember the name of the brand correctly. Myrkul Yes, the chop eye was a lot more than just drilling the hole for the eye on the opp side of the detent and when i saw several people with the full mod(eye, body mods, wiring, new board, etc), I just told myself I would make sure that my next marker had an "eye" in it from the start but ended up out of the sport before I upgraded markers again. Does anyone know the size of the rollpins used to hold everything in? Between the grime and age of everything, I was going to replace pretty much every "single use" item like the roll pins, o-rings, and anything else I come across that fits into that category. Going slow to make sure I have everything right and going ahead and digging into a little research to see what I "should" go ahead and looking at upgrading(outside of the board) to have a solid marker but I keep seeing like a 50/50 split on the HP reg(I think im going to have to find a new one anyways) to go ahead and get a new one vs keeping/rebuilding the stock one. There was some sparkle in all the grease in the HP side and in the bolt catch/return plunger system but I don't see much damage to anything(no big scratches/gouges in the metal or anything like that) but when i took it apart, the "adjustment plate" on the front of the HP was screwed all the way in. The LP side was tightened down pretty tight as well. I know some of it is just from sitting up but I do specifically remember looking at upgrades on the air side and that was one of the big reasons i was looking at either air upgrades or a new marker. I can get photos on here of the guts either tomorrow sometime or Saturday at the latest. I'm going to go ahead and assume my HP and LP systems will most likely either need a rebuild or replace right now. If that ends up being the case after I upload these photos, then what would be the best way to go about it with still trying to save money on it? Barrels(barrel systems) and stuff like that will be upgraded down the road once I can get back on the field, but I want to make sure that when I make the trip out to the field, I don't end up with a dead marker because one side of the pressure control system for the air blew out after 30min of play. Are there any tell-tale signs that I should look for now before I even get the photos up, or do you need the images to really tell if the valve system needs to be replaced?

[Myrkul]

I'm not sure what size the roll pins are, but you absolutely are going to want to use a 3/32 dowel pin for the trigger pivot point to take out some of the slop. You'll need to drill it.

[OpusX]

If you have it all apart and just clean everything well, perhaps with some isopro alcohol, then replace every oring and lube it up with superlube grease it will probably be fine.

[Myrkul]

Absolutely this.

[1nfluxh4x]

OpusX Myrkul Once I knocked out the roll pins to get ready for the new trigger switch, those basically fell into pieces and so I was just curious what you guys do. I am used to building AR's, Glocks, Sig's, and the like. Therefore Im used to using captive screw systems(anti-walk pins, etc) and so I didn't know what yall did as I never have much faith in roll pins to begin with. Has anyone used anti-walk pins from something like an AR, pistol, or something similar(i.e. airsoft milsim stuff or something like that)? Or am I just overengineering when I am adding the anti-walk's? The roll pin's not only tightened when i knocked them out but the lips on one side completely folded in so I would have to place in new one's regardless. Managed to dig through the manual and saw it's a 1/16th roll-pin that holds the trigger system/switch against the actual trigger(and holds the trigger as well) and Ive got everything wiped down with 91% ISO and everything. Will take photos of my LP/HP systems disassembled here in a day or two(been super busy with work) and yall can tell me if I need to do a full replacement, rebuild with 1 or 2 parts swapped, or just a simple clean and regrease. Also will include the photo of the other LP side attachment/system to see if I kept a good one or if it was an older one from one of my guns before they had electric guns and it's basically worthless or not lol. I thought it was the original and the one on the gun was my aftermarket but since it was off the gun, it makes me think it was one of my old ones for a fully manual gun and I just kept it whenever I sold my old tippman or whatever it was that I had it on. It's pretty damn large and no visable gauge's on it, so I can't say for sure exactly what it goes to. I really wish that I could keep my feedneck the way it is, but yall say that the milling is basically needed with modern hoppers/feed-systems correct(if it's gotta be done, then it's gotta happen)? The detend isn't as big of an issue because it already has the detent on the other side that doesn't match my paint, so putting one on the other side doesn't bother me(actually kinda glad so it's symetrical for the first time lol).

[OpusX]

I use the original feedneck on my lava Defiant with a small shim of clear gorilla tape in it to help hold my Rotor. Its quite solid. Clamling options are still nicer.

New roll pins a cheap and easy. I'd just source those (local ace hardware).

Same on orings. They are cheap, and to avoid another rebuild right now, just replace them all.

[1nfluxh4x]

OpusX Did you not have to have your bolt cut to keep from chopping paint? also, did you do the 2nd detent like everyone else is saying? I was about to chuck up the body and drill the hole for the 2nd detent today then mail it off for the feedneck and bolt mods, but now I want to hold off on the feedneck at min because if i can keep it unmodified, then that's the route I want to go. I've got a "bucket" of roll pins, so it's no issue getting them. I was just curious if there was anything else someone used instead. The guy who offers the bolt modifications and the rest of the work to make these "run modern paint" is fairly cheap so I was going to send the bolt and frame off to him for work but if I don't have to cut the neck, I can put in the detent myself and just will need to send the bolt off for cutting or whatever it he does to the top to make it act like a bullet feed ramp and keep it from chopping. I looked around for a few LPR's in case mine is messed up and it seems that the palmer micro-rock is the best choice? Also with the HPR, it seems either the Inception Designs V3 is the best choice? Am I correct on those? Again, I know it's probably way too much detail and worry but I'm overly detailed with my work/projects since I am a big electronics/gun guy and so I try and do as much digging as I can, it's just almost everything I keep finding is for Gen2 and not Gen1 so I get a lot of conflicting info and have to sift through it a lot. Thanks for all the help!

[Myrkul]

The PPS Micro Rock is definitely the best choice as far as LPRs go....you need a vapor adapter to use them though, and those are really difficult to find at this point. The AKA LPRs are also good.

I definitely wouldn't say an inception HPR is the "best" it should work fine though.

[OpusX]

I do have the bolt mod in my defiants/b2ks. The ramp and orings make a difference. Having a clamping feedneck is also quite nice, but I just wanted to note that you can "make it work" if you wanted. As for detents, I have left mine with the factory single detent, and I didn't want to drill into a nicely annodized body.