Phantom breaking paint.

[LA.Loic]

Just yesterday while playing with GI 5star field paint my phantom was breaking paint in the strangest of ways. It was breaking in the breach upon being shot. Was I clipping the fragile 5star ball while pumping? My friend was playing with a near identical Phantom without problem. Both of us used asp detents, both used the same size insert. One noticeable difference were our bolts. His required a flathead to change velocity while mine had an open face and required an allen key. Perhaps my style of bolt was less kind on the fragile paint? I had some tough shelled valken graffiti paint, which shot without problem. I've got another phantom that i can swap parts with. I just wanted to get some opinions before going through a bunch of 12grams.

Thanks again for all of the help.

[808Jackal]

Open face bolt is killing you. Especially on soft paint it can be pretty brutal. If you have time, you might be able to tune it to shoot without breaks, but it will require some effort. I was unable to get mine to do so. Fastest solution is to swap that part out.

[Jonnydread]

100% agree. I've had all sorts of issues with open-faced Nelson bolts. Also Phantoms are not the most gentle on paint so using 5-star may not be the best choice if you have alternatives.

[Chuck E Ducky]

Open face will give you a very small boost in efficiency at the cost of being harder on paint. People will say otherwise but this has been my experience with every open face bolt I have come across. Snag a new TPC stock silver springs about 1.5turns in from flush. I shoot super brittle paint with my phantom I just overbore and let the ASP detents do there job with the real brittle stuff.

[Chuck E Ducky]

It’s Also make sure your lock washer is not missing on your under cocking kit. The screw will enter the breach if it’s missing. The lock washer acts as a spacer from the UC kits mounting screw.

[LA.Loic]

Im pretty sure that im good on that, the gun has a quick strip screw, those must be to length.

[Chuck E Ducky]

Yeah that’s not the issue If you are using an over barrel pump it’s not an issue with the quick strip screws.

[LA.Loic]

[Chuck E Ducky]

Oh ok, I see running a Rainman kit. If I had to guess it’s the open face TPC like Jackal pointed out.

[Chuck E Ducky]

This should help if not solve your issue.

https://phantomonline.com/product/tuned-port-compensator-w-o-ring/

[LA.Loic]

Oh great. I didn't notice that in the parts catalog. I thought for sure that i'd be buying a whole new bolt. Looks like i'll be placing an order.

[Chuck E Ducky]

Yup and the Oring on the newer TPC help keep it from moving around so you don’t need to set the Teflon grub screw on the bolt.

[RAGINGCANUCK]

I don't mean to rerun this thread but, I am also curious about the new tuned port compensator and the anti-kink bolt assembly for sale on phantomonline. Are these stock parts in newer edition phantoms after XYZ date? Or are they only aftermarket? I'm a new phantom owner and very starved for info. (I wish the old MCB never went away)

[flyweightnate]

I don't mean to rerun this thread but, I am also curious about the new tuned port compensator and the anti-kink bolt assembly for sale on phantomonline. Are these stock parts in newer edition phantoms after XYZ date? Or are they only aftermarket? I'm a new phantom owner and very starved for info. (I wish the old MCB never went away)

To my knowledge, the open face is, and always was, aftermarket. From no later than 2005 (when I bought my first) onwards, all the new parts were TPC (the o-ring groove came later), but ASP and a few others made the open version.

[LA.Loic]

I regards to this “anti kink hammer” Mentioned above. could I possibly be suffering from issues pertaining to its predecessor? When I pump and the hammer and bolt latch together, my return is less than smooth. I having already had the older outdated bolt assembly fear that perhaps my hammer is old and outdated as well from an older generation of gun.

[flyweightnate]

Most bolts are anti kink, too. Look for a knife edged "tube" protruding on the back of the bolt that fits around the spring and inside the hammer. By fitting inside the hammer, it keeps the two aligned when cocked.

[Chuck E Ducky]

Its ruff on the forward stroke? Sounds to me like it needs a good cleaning. Is the bore of the body scored? Outside of the bolt ruff? Check the Oring on the bolt face make sure its the right size it should seal but not bind.

Also check the pump arm make sure its straight and do not not tighten down to all the way it can create a binding point at the pump arm at the point the pump arm enters the frame. Screw the pump arm into the handle and back it off half a turn.

Open face TPC were aftermarket it makes the Phantom a lil more efficient while making it harder on paint. Lots of people have tried to make the Phantom more efficient. Over the years CCI changed a few things to do just that. Lots of aftermarket internal parts claimed to improve performance. Most did nothing, fluted hammers / mods to lower operating pressure open face TPC / spring kits. All it did was change the point the valve and spring combo sweet spot at.

Looking back most "modified" Phantoms don't put out amazing efficiency numbers. Lots of the parts are still sought after and bring a premium because people think they are better, or are "rare". Nobody makes them anymore because the stock internals stock silver springs actually produce better numbers and the "heavy" (by comparison) stock hammer is more consistent.

You want performance. You got to start with a good clean marker / lightly oiled, stock silver springs, stock internals, barrel with a good paint to bore match (like a 12''), good quality consistent paint so you can match the paint perfect. As long as you don't over shoot the 12g and its above 60* outside I have been able to get over 40 shots to a 12g with just about any stock class phantom.