Oh I haven’t seen the retro pump yet. That’s sweet! If only it came in clear acrylic. But I have a Rainman kit that I don’t use because it made the phantom noticeably heavier. If I want to use a heavy marker, I’ll use one of my VMs. But the Rainman kit is really nice especially because it uses the standard CCM pump handles.
Consensus on the dual-rod pump kit?
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I aim down the side of the barrel. I need undercocking like I need paintballs..Comment
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www.PhrameworkDesigns.com < Nelspot, Sterling, and Phantom parts, plus the occasional big project.Comment
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I have the dual rod underpumper.
It’s very nice, the action is very click clack. I wouldn’t trade it for anything. However it costs half as much as a Phantom which is pretty silly if you think about it and as nice as it is you still can’t compare it to...pretty much any Sniper. It also never stays put and makes your gun 10x harder to work on.
My other Phantom has the stubby handle and the shim is great for that. I don’t see the point in using it with the dual rod pump.Comment
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I just installed the new CCI dual rod kit with the brass shim. It's very nice. I don't like the handle as much as my custom one - go figure - but the spring forces are balanced out now. That's a nice change. The rods are right where I want my fingertips, though. It'd be nice if the spring force were externally adjustable and there was the option for a hitman mod or whatever they call it these days.Comment
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I was debating the dual-rod kit, but I really like the ease of breakdown with the thumbscrews on a VSC setup. I installed the shim, and really didn't notice a difference on my stock setup, and re-assembly after it ate a detent insert (3d printed one) was a pain. What's break-down like with the dual rod? Can I leave the VSC mounted on the trigger guard, or do i need to remove that to take the body apart? Picking up the undercocking kit is more to try and see how it works for me, I'm relatively happy with my stock setup.
FYI, I'm still running microline, not hardline/macro, because it hasn't blown yet and caused me to swap out
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So, I have to trim my front screw down just a bit to clear the freak insert in the bored body. I think that modification is what allows me to remove the front screw completely without taking off the vert ASA. It's not much, just 2 or 3 turns.
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My thumb screw comes out enough to disengage the body, body stays trapped between the VSC piece. Similar to that?Comment
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