I’ve always installed the shims from the top of the frame flush with the front and haven’t had issues. Maybe I’ll make the straight shims a hair shorter if people are having issues.
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I don't think you need to do that, my install was easy. It sticks out from the frame very little, you wouldn't notice it unless you knew what to look for. I ordered them from you before the hack and installed it last month so couldn't remember the manufacturers recommendations.
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I don't mind it sticking out. I just seem to run into an issue with the pump arm slot "pinching" the shim so the arm can't move. Maybe it's just my Phantom being a bit off.
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There have been reports of frames being a hair tight before.
I always put the pump arm through the shim and use it to press the shim in from the top of the frame.
Would people still like the flared version? I’ve been selling fewer and fewer. I’m happy to make them still, but they don’t really offer any advantage over the straight version other than a spot for the spring to rest.
The frame holds the shim tight enough that movement isn’t really a concern like I thought it might be when I started flaring them.Comment
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The fluted ones eliminates the need for the pump return spring washer and keeps the spring from scratching the frame. I use both kinds....Originally posted by aggroman View Post
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Yeah, eliminating the spring washer is a benefit. Like I said, I’m happy to make both styles. The flare doesn’t add much work at all.Comment
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I use the flared version in my “micro” Phantom to tighten up the slop in the (2”) handle. The flare is the perfect seat for the rerun spring washer. Seems almost OEM. After this and securing the handle to the rod VERY MUCH so the cocking action is...very good.
The reason there is so much slop in the first place is to make sure nothing binds, when first assembled or after a few pieces of sand get in there. When combining the tube with the under cocker I wouldn’t be surprised if it got bound up. You may have to cycle it a bunch of times to wear it in. I don’t use one in my undercocker.Comment
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Brass arrived a couple days ago. I’m hoping to get these done this coming Monday.Comment
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PM'dComment
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PM'd as well
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PMs received. I’ll get back to everyone once these are finished. In the mean time feel free to pm me with the quantity and style you’d like. That will help determine how many of each I make.Comment
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I like flared because I like the flat surface for the return spring with or without the washer.Comment
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Sorry for the delay, the shims are finished and ready to go. I believe I replied to or messaged everyone that expressed interest. If I missed you please shoot me a pm. I’ll post up a sale thread over the weekend.Comment
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iamthelazerviking did you ever get it to work? I installed mine yesterday and had the same issue initially. Pump handle bound and not able to budge at all. I started taking the pump off and backing out the handle threads one at a time and reassembling. After the 4th or 5th adjustment, the action became butter. Tried another turn and it started to bind again, there is a sweet spot. I think I'm going to fix the handle to the pump rod and see how that feels. It's already significantly better.Comment
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I have one of each already in two of my three phantoms. I have to say I prefer the flared as people have already mentioned, it gives a nice spot for the spring to sit. Additionally, and this is not required by any means, but I like to put the tiniest drop of oil in the shim. Really makes it buttery.Comment
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I’ve still got mine from the before times, can confirm a drop of oil really makes it. Do prefer the flare for a spring perch as I shoot one handed a lot.Originally posted by spikeball View PostComment
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