Ah yes, the promaster

[Headshotted]

I've apparently forgotten how to work on one of these. Got all the stock reg rebuilt, but I'm just getting full tank output to the block even when the hpr should be in "zero'ed out" position. Yes, I know the stock hpr is junk, I just don't have the money for a new reg this week. I'll probably reassemble and just set it to the side, but memory says I ran an hp tank on one of these with no major issues.

So, to recap - rebuilt regs won't let me balance and recock. Gauge is probably blown now, but thats a different story. I should have bought a freestyle. If some old hat has a video guide on rebalancing I would appreciate it.

[glaman5266]

It's been a long while since I've worked on a Promaster, but I think all I did was zero out both regs, bump the HPR just a tad (maybe 100-125psi) and bump the LPR until it cycles properly or to the factory specified pressure. Bump up the HPR to velocity. Basically like how I set up any other non-FASOR EP (Timmys, Bushys, etc.).

I know you know the HPR is junk, but that's likely your issue. Change that sucker out. They should be able to take high-pressure tank outputs with no problem.

EDIT: I'm not so sure now... Lemme see what the manual says.

DOUBLE EDIT: https://pbmanuals.com/download-manua...er-2005-manual

Consult pages 21 & 22 of the PDF. After reading these, I would put the HPR to ~125-150psi, bump the LPR in accordance with page 22. Then bump the HPR to 250 and see what velocity you get. According to the manual the HPR is set to 250-300psi from the factory, so I'd stick within that range. Make LPR adjustments if needed (probably unlikely), but then just adjust the HPR from there.

I personally find that ICD electros function best when tuned/set to the specifications in the manual. I don't go outside of those when working on ICD electros.

[autococker04]

I’d set both regs to 0,
open HPR to 200 ish,
slowly open LPR until it recocks and cycles,
chrono and keep opening LPR until velocity maxes out
Then increase hpr until you get to velocity.

edit: ^^ what he said
also, I think I have a gauge I’ll send it to you if I find it.

[Headshotted]

Let me reassemble the mess. I was looking at the manual and I literally saw nothing about the input pressure to start. Goes to show my reading comprehension. I have about 500 psi left in the tank so here goes nothing.

Alright. After burning the last of my psi and trying at various levels, it won't recock and the most it'll do is start blowing air out of the noid. I am gonna take a break, go pack lunch for tomorrow, reassemble and give it one last shot before bed. I'll re-read the manual but I am thinking it's either a reg seat issue or a wrong oring. To no fault of Mr. Autococker04 I knew there were going to be issues, and this is what I pulled out of it earlier. Brand new reg seats, cup seals, etc.

Edit #2 - I'm pretty sure the oring that was in the lpr was the literal glue keeping this thing working. Done with it for tonight. My mag works and the wife has a working axe, so, I'll shelve it for another day.

Edit #3 - convinced its something in the lpr. Wrong reg seats perphaps? But ICD used a universal design. Found a few urethane mag seals lying around and I was able to get it to recock. Who made an aftermarket lpr for one of these? I thought palmers did but they only made stabilizers for the freestyle.

[Olsson]

AKA still sells LPRs for the Promaster, although at $70 I don't think it is worth it for a Promaster today. I have a Promaster that works fine, apart from lacking a valve pin and a vale cup (and the valve seal obviously), and I haven't been able to justify the cost of $70 to get it running.

Yep, those valve seal looks exactly like every other valve seal in an old Promaster. I had a couple that worked just fine until developing a leak from "nowhere", but upon disassembling the LPRs, the valve seal simply fell out in parts. You may very well have a perfectly working Promaster, as long as you rebuild the LPR.

[Toestr]

ICD sent me a couple new cup seals in an envelope for free a while back.

Sent from my Pixel 4a using Tapatalk

[Headshotted]

I got some new cupseals in a parts kit from them, but upon closer inspection the one I am working with looks more like a torus than it does an actual circle, and it looked tapered for some reason, as if it wasn't cut correctly. I sent off an email seeing if I can get a replacement. I saw they had lpr's for the freestyle, which, tbf, is still a worth it upgrade on most freestyles; didn't see it for the promaster.

[glaman5266]

https://akapaintball.com/products/scm-3-low-pressure-regulator

Pick from the drop-down list.

[Headshotted]

Big D to the rescue. It might be worth it so its less of a headache from here on out.

[glaman5266]

Yeah. Anyone serious about their Promasters & Freestyles usually upgrade the LPR & HPR, and usually with AKA regs. They're really what the factory regs should've been IMO. Pre-2k4 BKOs are a bit different, however... I need a different front block plus a cocker reg, lol. And they're not exactly common or cheap.

Which reminds me to put up a WTB. I think I'll do that.