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Source for guts to go in a Bob Long frame?

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    Source for guts to go in a Bob Long frame?

    I'm curious if anyone has any experience putting working guts in those cheap Bob Long .45 frames.
    Will they accept most new-ish Spyder triggers, sears, and springs, or does it have to be from an older-style grip frame?

    #2
    These are millennium frames I assume?

    While i don't have an actual answer for you I think your logic is sound at least. It wouldn't make much sense for Bob long to redesign all the geometry from an existing frame

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      #3
      They take direct drop in bits (pins, wide triggers, sears). IISports has some triggers. Pins can be made from round bar stock. Sears are the hard part to find. Some of the other clones have similar dimensions, but YMMV.
      Velcor will save us...

      Current MCB Feedback : https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/b...opusx-feedback
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        #4
        Originally posted by OpusX View Post
        They take direct drop in bits (pins, wide triggers, sears). IISports has some triggers. Pins can be made from round bar stock. Sears are the hard part to find. Some of the other clones have similar dimensions, but YMMV.
        That's what I was wondering about- According to I&I there was some sort of change to the trigger guts around 1998. I'm wondering if the Bob Long frames take the internals from pre-98 or post-98 Spyder frames.

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        • OpusX

          OpusX

          commented
          Editing a comment
          I can confirm that trigger works. I have one in my sleeper milly right now.

        #5
        I've put a couple blast frames together myself, never been a fan of doubles. my guess is that the pre 98 trigger is drilled to center and post 98 is offset.Bacci's image shows a centered hole.

        Click image for larger version

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        I&I's shows a offset hole.

        Click image for larger version

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        When i've had to source a trigger, i used bacci's as some items from I&I's were not available to me in Canada, other then that i've used any double trigger frame to source sear,springs,pins. if it had a plastic trigger sear i switched to metal.

        Click image for larger version

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        I've only been lucky once and recieved a complete trigger frame with all orginal parts(top right). Hope this helps and good luck with your build.



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        • GanonsGrin
          GanonsGrin commented
          Editing a comment
          Did that bottom right MR1 come to you milled on the side like that? Does it look milled or dremeled?

          I’m on the hunt for an elusive historical (to me) piece that I didn’t know existed until recently.

        • Rolling Thunder 67

          Rolling Thunder 67

          commented
          Editing a comment
          GanonsGrin: I milled that body.

        #6
        I've done 3 or 4 of these frames.

        Never had a single issue with any metal Spyder sear, or a single issue with any metal trigger. I believe the pre-98 plates they are referring to are the old "thin" style trigger plates, which frankly are hard to find at this point. You should be good to just dump 99% of Spyder internals into them. I would recommend throwing the pins into a a drill chuck and polishing them though, and I'd also recommend adding set screw trigger stops in the spring well and on the bottom of the Spyder body because spyder triggers WAY over travel. As a final note, my preferred trigger for these is actually a chopped down stock Spyder double trigger. Dremel the second finger off, sand smooth so that it clears, and the just slap it together and sail away with it. I have one on my spump.


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