Palmer Hurricane Disassembly

[Cdn_Cuda]

Well, for my 2,000th post (or close enough, my post count jumped by 5 for some reason…) I figured I might as well do something significant. So I’m going to be taking apart my recently acquire Palmer Hurricane!

So enough fanfare, let’s get down to business:
A4F07C8E-1BB7-4DB4-9855-C2E59AC09783.jpegMajorly lucked out and found this little gem locally. I’ve never even held a Palmer before, say nothing of fondling it, or shooting one. Thankfully I’ve got Jordan to help keep me on the right path and answer any questions I have. It’s greatly appreciated!

First things first, remove the Stabilizer.l from the ring mount:

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With the stabilizer out of the way I can now access the large bolts holding the body to the stock, as you can see on either side of the Stabilizer mount assembly.
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So now we have the reg mount assembly removed, leaving one more step to free the stock from the marker.

6F00C8E7-A775-4BF1-B382-997305C5694D.jpeg And finally we disconnect the air line from the body, allowing the removal of the air line, reg and the stock from the body:

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[Cdn_Cuda]

I’ll just take a moment to point out the hoses on the 3-way here to aid in the eventual reassembly. The left side of the marker has two hoses:
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And the right side has a single hose:
1A11AE8B-7030-4E54-A616-30C159F2C7E1.jpeg You’ll notice I’ve marked those hoses with some green painter’s tape to help avoid later confusion.

So with that, we can remove the wood stock and set it out of the way.
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Now we can see the parts under the Hurricane’s skirt, if you will, including the trigger and safety assembly.

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It kind of reminds me of a hermit crab without it’s shell. Those little bits that are usually hidden are interesting, but not all the pretty to look at. It’s also the first real indication this is not just some mass produce hunk of metal. There’s some definite handcrafting at work.

[Cdn_Cuda]

So let’s look at some of those handcrafted parts.

The most notable is the trigger assembly. From the twisted metal trigger to the welder/soldered prong on the trigger plate, which I have recently learned is a stock Sheridan trigger group, including the safety. I would assume the modification to the sear is custom done though.

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We can take a look at the welds on the sear plate. Not pretty, but given that this piece lives inside a pirate stock, it’s fitting. It’s a little ugly, grizzled, but it works and does what it needs to do. It may also have been a repair. Chime in with the answer in the comments.

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One of my favourite details on this marker is the safety switch. It’s a very nice touch on something that is quite simple, but again it fits so perfectly with the theme of this marker.

Here’s the top view of the safety, as it looks when the marker is fully assembled:

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As you can see, there is a little metal tab on either side of the rear of the marker. One side is marked F, the other marked S. Pushing your desired action moves a metal ring with a small plate. In S mode this plate moves to stop the trigger from being pulled. In F mode the plate rotates out of the way to allow the trigger to fully engage. The top picture being showing F mode and the bottom picture showing S mode.

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[Cdn_Cuda]

So let’s remove the trigger mechanism next. Clearly could use a fresh coat of paint. Any suggestions are appreciated. My previous painting has consisted of rattle canning Tippmanns.

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And at this point you can remove the pin, spring and hammer as well, as they are no longer being held in place.

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And now I’m left with the valve still in place and am waiting on an order from Palmer that is spending an extended amount of time in Canada Customs.

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[The Weltman]

This was the easy part compared to the valve and regulator.

[Cdn_Cuda]

Yup! I had to order a valve tool. Thankfully Palmer shipped it quickly and I should get it next week.

[BrickHaus]

The Weltman?? Like THE weltman? Welcome home.

[Cdn_Cuda]

Let finish removing the parts from the body next.

This brings us to the 3-way valve at the bottom of the marker.

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Removal is quite easy as this piece was fairly loose. Cannot say if that is usual, or just the result of sitting for years.
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And here is the 3-way fully removed. There is a special screw that stays in the body that holds this all in place. It’s head is shaped to conform to the body and it appears to stay in the body and still allow the internals to be removed.

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[Jordan]

The assembly should be tight, tbh... if the Z-bracket moves around it can affect how the trigger interacts with the 4way.

[Cdn_Cuda]

Good to know. Was thinking if needed to be tight and it just came loose over time. I’ll take care during reassembly to ensure things are reassembled properly.

[infamoussmiley]

Thank you for the write up

Best,

Smiley

[Cdn_Cuda]

Next on to the bolt removal. There’s pin that connects the bolt to the ram arm. Just pull pin to disconnect the bolt.

7BA33E68-1265-4252-B4CD-A14562F934E9.jpeg The bolt will not come free yet. There is a channel along the left side the body and there is a peg on the bolt that runs in this channel. Twist the bolt, moving the peg into the channel, and remove the bolt.

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[Jordan]

Didn't realize you had P1710.... that's my old Typhoon that I sent in for a conversion to a Hurricane. Haven't seen it in over a decade.

[Cdn_Cuda]

Seriously?! Wow that’s crazy. I bought it from a kid selling his dad’s old gear that has likely been sitting for a decade. Hopefully I can get it up and running, otherwise it might be paying you another visit.

[Cdn_Cuda]

And my valve tool has been sitting with CBSA since October 8th…. Wonder if I’ll actually get it before Halloween…

[Cdn_Cuda]

Well, Canada Customs eventually decided my valve tool was not in fact a threat to national security, my package of Palmer goodies finally arrive. So I can finally remove the valve and finish the disassembly!

60ECECC5-BD35-4B57-A88C-B5FE4D20693F.jpegFoolish me thought a Palmer was extra nice and sent me two valve tools by mistakes…. Until I noticed the ends. Both are needed to remove the valve.

Removed valve:
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And once that was remove I thought everything should come out easy. Boy was I wrong. Nothing moved in the body and there was no obvious way to proceed. So after yet another message to Jordan, and a brief essay of an explanation, I’m back on track!

So next step is to remove the LPR adjustment screw with is in the front handle.
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Then the handle can be slid off the body. Not sure if anyone makes something a little prettier than the stock plastic, but something I’ll look into later.

[Jordan]

Those are old Tippmann 68 Special foregrips that are milled at the top to slide onto the lower tube... but any Sheridan pump handle will work, just add a setscrew to it to secure it.

[Cdn_Cuda]

Now comes the next gun part, punching out the pins along the LPR adjustment at the front of the marker. Thankfully I managed to find a pair of punches kicking around (Thanks dad!) and punched them pins into the body:
31CEABD9-A2D7-4746-B58F-E1794D33D3DF.jpeg Front view of the pin dropping:
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And the little bigger pops down and is set aside somewhere safe. There are two pins to remove!
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And finally I used a pin to pop the cap off the end:

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[Cdn_Cuda]

With the cap off, I carefully removed the next section of internals:

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At some point this spring was likely lubed, but it’s dry as can be.

Now to fight with the remaining internals, which are being held tighter than a fart at Sunday service. I’ve managed to get it to pivot back and forth, but not forward to backward movement:

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I’ll go back and consult Jordan’s instructions, but for now this is where I stop. Some progress has been made, some things were said that weren’t really meant, but still more work to go!

[Cdn_Cuda]

After some deep questions about my teching abilities and personal inadequencies, I managed to spin, wiggle and pleading that LPR piece loose.

So first step is to wiggle! I used an standard bottom line screw and just wiggled side to side and added lube. Might be better to use WD40 right away. I could only get the piece to move sideways and newer back and forth.

So I need to remove the LPR house before I can go any further. This was a major challenge and took considerable time and effort, so hopefully you can learn from my mistakes.

Inside the lower tube you can see LPR housing and the Allan bolt/grub screw. This screw is adjustable, but I used some Teflon tape to essentially jam it in place, allowing me to spin the entire piece instead of threading in the bolt.

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So once this piece started to spin, I started to add liberal doses of WD40 in hopes it would release its death grip. After spinning and adding more WD40 for about two periods of a hockey game, it finally gave way and started to move. I used a piece of macroline to push the rest of the internals out. Here is an actually video of the process: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=x-Vbz_OyNXI

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Now, if you’re smart than I am (not a high bar to pass) you can disassemble the from of the marker first and blast some air through and hopefully push out the LPR piece. I had disassembled the marker too far to do that and trying to blast air from a remote line didn’t work for me.

Removing the next pieces is a much easier task. I used a pick to get things moving an a piece old macroline to push it all the way out. One pieces exits out the front, the other comes out the rear.

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and here they are, free from their bonds:

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[Jordan]

Bottom picture, left to right:

LPR piston, (LP) reg housing, valve coupler.

[Cdn_Cuda]

Thank you!

[Cdn_Cuda]

I’ve tried to show what o-rings sizes are needed for the internals, or to at least provide a general idea.


Starting with the LPR cylinder, which looks to be a 016 o-ring.
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Next up is the valve coupler. It has two o-ring, one on the space shown and another that sits at the end of the coupler and the valve (see second photo)
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And then we have the o-ring that sits between the coupler and the valve, which appears to be a 014 o-ring.F69C3F04-6447-465F-8FDF-38509F51E40D.jpeg

I will need to add a photo of the (LP) reg housing and the o-ring on it.

[netsurferdude2]

That 012 valve coupler is the bane of my existence. I never had one palmer semi or pump that didn't blow out that oring. I recommend replacing it with a 90 duro oring since it is completely static.

[XEMON]

it usually get damage when assembling it ... and you cannot test it until you have the entire gun assembled ...

[Cdn_Cuda]

Thanks for the heads up!

[Cdn_Cuda]

NOTICE: As Jordan has pointed out, I am missing some pieces and have the LPR assembly mixed with the pressure relief. I will correct this post (and the next one) once I get the missing parts and get things figured out.

Also important to show the bits and pieces in the LPR housing. They sit inside the LPR housing in the order shown below: Note this is incorrect. I mistakenly included extra pieces here.

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Update: Here is the proper overpressure relief assembly taken apart.

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[Jordan]

Those pieces go inside the piston - that is the overpressure relief vent. (I didn't know you'd taken it apart.)

You're missing the lpr reg pin, seat, and spring, which look very similar and go inside the housing.

[Cdn_Cuda]

Nuts! Looks like I'm going to have to order more bits and pieces from Palmers.