Stroker rebuild

[latches109]

lower tube was not easy to get clean that gummy bear mayo is sticky.




up next to clean




Is there any way to remove the staining from the nickel plating?

[Jordan]

I've used Brasso in the past with limited success... a quick Google suggests 0000 steel wool and either a water/vinegar mixture or baking soda/water paste.

You may have experiment a bit.

[latches109]

that is after vinegar and a light polish. I'll try the 0000 wool. I have a bag

[latches109]

Jordan is there a typhoon oring size list?

[Brokeass_baller]

All I could find were bolt o-rings on HaveBlue's now defunct tech ratsnest.

http://web.archive.org/web/20121004133156/http://haveblue.org/tech/palmer/index.html

[Jordan]

Jordan is there a typhoon oring size list?

I don't think there is.

Off the top of my head I believe the lower tube components are all either 112s or 113s, with the coupler oring being a 012-90 and the valve oring being a 013 or 014 (sometimes the smaller one stays in place better).

The rams are non-rebuildable, and the switch orings will depend on what you have - the stem orings are 003s regardless of what 3way it is, but the spool/cup orings will be different depending on if you have a Quickswitch or an old WGP 3way in there.

Best way to determine what 3way it is: c-clip will be WGP, setscrew will be Palmers.

[latches109]

I finally have all the parts, need to find some time for reassembly

[latches109]

well its nearly all back together - I put the valve chamber transfer tube thing in on the - wrong - LPR side, causing the valve stem to be loose. And I had an extra spacer that didn't fit anywhere. That was an easy mistake spot. Two of the orings I got from palmers in the new kit were bad, hard and broke apart. I took some from a stab kit had on hand. - really need a resupply on the orings, I run out of one size and its not really worth it for an order until I need more sizes. One of the tiny C-Clips on the original 3way took a vacation, ordered a replacement from the internet. I have a bunch of 3ways that will work and a new quickswitch in the meantime. Now that its barley leaking... 1 baby bubble / min from the LPR supply barb, that's fine right? I checked the recharge on the LPR - good for the rate of fire this marker puts out. all that is left is to put the 3 way back, new LPR hoses, and get a reg / bottom-line sorted out.

[latches109]

[latches109]

no leaks! shooting 250ish with super small reball .675 - so I am calling it 285 with the right sizing. I had to redo all the hose routing and take the vertical adapter off again to switch the LPR feed tube to the other side. Didn't realize the grips had holes to route the lines, There is a gap in the grips with the bottom line adapter but doesn't seem to bother me. What do people use with adapters?

[gmo87]

The gap at the seam is pretty common when using the elite grips. The grips were made without the plates in mind.

[latches109]

gmo87 thanks, did anyone make grips to close the seam?

[gmo87]

latches109 Not that I am aware of, sorry. I was contemplating of using one of the rubber gaskets used for car engines or something similar if I were to use the elite grips close the seam. Not sure if a custom grip route is worth it.

[latches109]

[gmo87]

Do you need to set you air tank at 1100 psi if you are going to run the stabillizer? Or, is it just there to maintain recharge rate of 800psi from a CO2 bottle?

[latches109]

gmo87 in the video above, I test fired with a gas through grip and HPA output of 850psi. Pictured here I am using the Stab to try out lighter springs and lower the pressure more.