Super stocker won't hold air

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  • HBPredhunter
    Rockin and Cockin
    • Jul 2026
    • 53

    #1

    Super stocker won't hold air

    Ok so I've got a stocker that's about 15 years old, 10 years in storage. Put a 12 g in it and it blows air down the barrel.
    pulled the grip off, rva out, pulled the valve.
    looked like the valve stem seal had a blow out.
    Ordered the valve kit from palmer website, came quick.
    Installed valve stem and body oring.

    Same exact problem. Is there a seal I'm missing? Not in tight enough? The main jam nut is just finger tight.

    There was no loctite on anything, btw.

    UPDATE
    All orings replaced including the #11 vasa and #12 inner body oring my finger is pointing to. Loctite thread sealant on the vasa fitting to the body. (It had black sealant on it previously)
    12 gram still dumps out the lower tube blowing the cap into the pump arm. Does the brass piece need to be sealed somehow?

    Updafe: the loctite needs 2 days to dry on that asa pipe threads, did that again and it's all good.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by HBPredhunter; 09-16-2026, 08:41 AM.
  • TencenT
    Postin
    • Mar 2026
    • 125
    • Henderson, NV

    #2
    Assuming it's similar to pretty much every other kind of marker, the valve body itself has at least one o-ring on it, is that still good? And of course, you did cock it first to get the hammer off the valve pin?

    Nice color fade!
    Feedback - SnapshotPB

    Comment

    • F1FX
      MCB Member
      • Sep 2023
      • 259

      #3
      Click image for larger version

Name:	image.jpg
Views:	201
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ID:	871819​not a SS but similar internal setup. More than likely you need to replace the #12 o-ring.

      Comment

      • Loophole
        MCB Member
        • Feb 2021
        • 1426
        • California

        #4
        Yep, you are going to have to pull of VASA and replace the -012 oring. That's a unique little build you have.
        Feedback: https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/b...ole-s-feedback

        Comment

        • Jordan
          I. Am. Canadian. 🇨🇦
          • Jul 2020
          • 3508
          • Southern Ontario, Canada

          #5
          Originally posted by Loophole
          Yep, you are going to have to pull of VASA and replace the -012 oring. That's a unique little build you have.
          That's going to leak down and around the lower tube setup, not down the barrel.

          It sounds more like he needs to replace the valve oring and then tighten the jam nut - finger tight is NOT tight enough.

          And NO LOCTITE, anywhere. Please. Except for the VASA if you pull it.

          Comment


          • Loophole
            Loophole commented
            Editing a comment
            Right, brain fart. Leaking down the lowertube can often sound like down the barrel, but it does look like it has a plug for the lower tube which would more than likely pop out if the -012 o ring was the culprit.
        • Drcemento
          Tiger Stripe Enthusiast
          • Aug 2021
          • 741
          • NorCal

          #6
          look for gooped up old valve o-ring still in the body to. if it is a barrel leak the above info is good, at close to 15 years however, that little 012 o-ring is almost certainly going to need replacement soon, which means pulling that VASA, which means potentially heat and jacking up your sweet fade. the vasa's were typically red loc-tited in.

          Comment

          • HBPredhunter
            Rockin and Cockin
            • Jul 2026
            • 53

            #7
            Ok, it's gotta be the 12 oring in vasa. Had no idea that was there. I can use a soldering iron to apply heat to a fasteners.... but where is the bolt that holds the vasa on???

            Comment

            • HBPredhunter
              Rockin and Cockin
              • Jul 2026
              • 53

              #8
              Does anyone know what size oring this is under vasa cover?
              ps- use a soldering iron to heat a vasa from the inside, comes with off with padded vise, no damage to powder coat.

              ETA- that little oring is #11. It's got thread sealant going into the marker body.

              Now how do you remove the front guts? It jiggles back and forth
              Attached Files
              Last edited by HBPredhunter; 08-21-2026, 10:58 PM.

              Comment

              • Jordan
                I. Am. Canadian. 🇨🇦
                • Jul 2020
                • 3508
                • Southern Ontario, Canada

                #9
                That threaded piece unscrews and then there are two components that come out - one through the front of the tube, one through the back.

                Comment

                • HBPredhunter
                  Rockin and Cockin
                  • Jul 2026
                  • 53

                  #10
                  If anyone has any tips for the front tube, I got them out and replaced the oring, then used sealant on the top vasa threads. 12 hours later tried a 12 gram and it vented right out the front. Perhaps I did not let the loctite 592 dry long enough? Oring did not blow upon inspection.

                  Comment


                  • Loophole
                    Loophole commented
                    Editing a comment
                    I generally wait 24+ hours for loctite to cure and use blue 242.
                • HBPredhunter
                  Rockin and Cockin
                  • Jul 2026
                  • 53

                  #11
                  Yup had to let loctite cure longer on those asa threads. I used loctite 542 white. Palmers had something black on them originally.

                  Comment

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