The one that didn't make the cut...

[BrickHaus]

So an update on my fast changer woes.. it seems the lower tube is tapped crooked enough it makes the fast changer collar catch a 12ie. So I am going to cut the lower tube and stock for a side drop out eventually.

Ive otherwise been tooling around and trying to get a mcmaster order going. I glued, clamped, and tapped 2 of my little plates together. I have extra plates and Im planning on re doing this with jb weld, and tapping the main arm 3 times rather than 2, but this super glue hand drilled example seems like it'll work well.

my issue at this point is the fact that my top arm is too long for a rod end or clevis. I'm thinking of drilling a new hole in the bolt 90* out then using a tubing spacer,and a series of bushings to make the last power transmission point. The wife wanted to go get dinner, so I had to take a break.

All in all Im happy with my progress in the fact I can almost complete my Mcmaster order on this.

[Jack]

I may be jumping the gun but how is the lever going to attach to the stock? Looks like this will be a blast when it's done! Keep on chugging man.

[BrickHaus]

Jack. My thought is use a chunk of aluminum to make a mounting plate much like the other lever guys have done.

Im hoping I can use my drill press to drill a few times through said plate to establish a slot for the lever and trigger to pass through. Ill have to cut and file the other pieces out.

Then I was thinking I would flip the plate 90*, and drill a cross hole for bushings. Then use a shaft to run through the bushings, lever, and plate. The lever would set screw to the shaft.

Then i was thinking Id poke a hole in the stock and the shaft would stick through, qnd this monstrosity of an arm would run long the side of the stock to make a cool lever effect? It will likely fail at the set screws, but it looks cool in my head so Im going to go for it.

The only bitch it assembly, but I figure assembly be damned you guys work on pps guns..

[BrickHaus]

Spent the better part of the day modeling, and re modeling, a simple plug to help mount my lever changer. I tried to print threads in 13/16- 28 but I couldnt get it to work. So I tried this. Its stupid thin. A single wall of filament essentially. I think Ill try even less layer height, to get q better bond, qnd sand it to fit. and Im going to print it in petg now that I got a working example. Ill drill the screw mount hole to orient the lever at an angle to avoid the stock.

Theres already a solder hole close to where I want to be. The screw will almost cover it. So ill poke on plane with that.

I this means I have to cut the slot for a drop out...

Ill get back to my lever idea and get to ordering components.

[BrickHaus]

The hole is poked. Stand off is set putting pressure on the 12ie nicely. Ugh, now the scary task of cutting the drop out slot. . Oh look its bed time... haha, Ill tool around some more tomorrow if I get the mod bug again.

[BrickHaus]

Re designing the spacer again this morning. After fiddling with it last night. I realized its pretty easy to " over close" the lever, where the cam drops off of the roller on the back side. This isnt a huge deal, except the lever portion pinches into the body of the gun. Making it harder to release the 12ie. This was with an empty. A partially pressurized one would be even worse. That being said.. i stretched the collar 16mm. So the perpendicular edge of the lever shoulders into my spacer. This will prevent the lever from pinching shut.

[Jordan]

You could add a setscrew to the lever as a "stop" if you find yourself mashing it down during a game.

[BrickHaus]

Good idea. If this doesnt hold, Ill do that.

[BrickHaus]

Here is my whole lever assembly I cobbled together. Its the original one I wanted to use on the fast changer. Just an 8/32 aluminum stand off, and a bored out spacer from a tv wall mount kit.

Im pretty sure the lever assembly is tapped m4 as I can only thread the 8/32 a few turns, but screw it. It has good bite and the smashed o ring keeps tension on it.

[Jordan]

Looks great! I envy everyone with 3d printers and the skills to use them.

[BrickHaus]

Alright. Valve was evacuated. And I markered off where I think I want to slot it. I'm hoping for kind of a side out slot. Ideally I want the stock to offer a shelf for easier loading of the 12ie, but a side out so it doesnt take much of a wrist roll to toss the spent 12ie..

I figured Id use my qngle grinder with a 4" wheel for the long lines. Should provide a straighter cut than the dremel. Ill use a dremel to make the vertical cuts though.


Please offer any feedback or insights now if you see a flaw in my plan..

Im currently intermittently fasting, and my feed window is about to open. I was going to let her marinade on the vice while I ate something before any critical cuts were made. that being said, there is time to save her...

[Jordan]

I used a different approach on my KP... grooved the stock so it acts as a slide.

Pictures are in my thread:

https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/paintball-news-aa/the-armory/sheridan/171597-ebay-pirate-project-log

[BrickHaus]

I loved that. Id ideally do that here, where the 12ie slides in like a shotgun shell..

[Jordan]

My mantra when I'm about to mod something is "nothing is sacred, make it yours" 🙂. Side load would be really cool too, I think I'm going to do that on the single shot I want to build.

[BrickHaus]

The die has been cast..

[JeepDVLZ45]

Love it! Great job. Looks awesome

[BrickHaus]

If you want a few of the spacers sent your way Jeep, just say the words!

[Impactfour]

That's real slick. I love watching projects like this come together.

[BrickHaus]

I gotta take a little more wood for smoother drops, but..... Booyah!!!!!

[BrickHaus]

I had to break to walk the dog, rake the snow off the roof, and eat dinner. I had this dropping 12ies with out the valve. I cleaned the tubes out, and loaded my valve. The valve itself indexing the 12ies made them snag again. After dinner I did some more shaping until a 12ie fell out much smoother. Its exactly what I had pictured in my head. You loadthe 12ie point in like chambering a round backwards. The stock shelf allows easy reloads with the shooter flatish, its a quick wrist roll will pitch the 12ie. Im very happy with this portion of the project. Im down to paint feed, and lever.

Time to wind back down for the work week.

[JeeperCreeper]

Very nice

[BrickHaus]

Means a lot coming from you. Thank ya sir.

[BrickHaus]

I made a good amount of progress today. I finally think I have a good idea on how to make this Pinocchio a real boy.

Being I dont have half of the tools I wish I had, I did all of this with a hack saw, dremel, drill, and files. Ideally, Id make a stepped block on a mill, but Im working with that I have.

I first made a sub plate. This sits on the shelf inside of the stock, and spans the whole pocket of the stock. I intend to poke either one or two holes through the plate to tap into the L block to bind them together. Then Ill make the L block my bearing housing. I may wood screw the L block to the stock for more secure mounting, but I may rely on the pinch. I made the L block from a 6061 bar and a HACKSAW, man my arms are tired.

I still have a lot of work to make it an assembly, but here is what I got done today..

I also got my Lee Enfield but plate in!! I'll shape the wood to fit this bad boy.

[jeramiej]

Looking good. I like the two piece concept.

[Trbo323]

Hey would one if you brass guys be willing to put together a how to on polishing? I just got done with a pgp and it polished up pretty good but just not great so I'm wondering what I'm missing

Sent from my motorola edge 5G UW (2021) using Tapatalk

[BrickHaus]

I "fitted" my butt plate this morning before heading out to help my cousin move. I took roo much off the back long ago in early shaping, so I'm afraid i can't make it super nice without shortening the stock too far.

I think this will do.. I will clean it up a bit more, and maybe wrap the transition in leather if it bothers me enough.

[BrickHaus]

Well. Took the plunge... I squared the table on my drill press half assed, and drilled out the tombstone. Hours of filing and drilling got me this monstrosity.

It kind of works but my sad 10/32 set screws just slide on the steel rod trying to drive the heavy drive spring back. (Its a heavy spring)

Ill divot the shaft for my screws to prevent the slide. I may even add a second set screw each contact point.

It still needs busings and something to make life easier at the bolt connection, but a day is a day... what I wouldn't do for a nice shop. Haha.


anyone have a ead on a good kp length spring and valve combo they use that makes the coxking force as little as possible?