How to- pistol frame into wood stock...

[WALZ]

There is some interest from some members on how to convert a pistol frame into a rifle...or pirate...wood...

Its pretty simple to do if you have a dremmel tool.
i pictured a standard pistol frame showing the cuts you need to make.
First take the guts out and set aside.
cut frame at lines pictured making sure you do the back slotted one too.
drill hole for new pin location for new trigger. The circle at the back of the frame...
make a trigger out of steel or brass. Drill hole for pin and another small 1/16" hole for the clevis..
you will need two clevises and a small piece of 4/32 threaded rod.
cut the original trigger down and drill another 1/16" hole for the second clevis.
try to keep the clevises close to the body so you don't have to inlet to deep for the new trigger group
I like to round the ends for easer installation.
you will note the front is cut both for length and depth... needed room when you add a screw and coupler to fasten the body to the wood...
i didn't show the coupler so I will make one tommorrow and post it up.
picture of completed assembly.

[cougar20th]

Awesome post as usual. I love seeing how things are made. Where are you getting the crevices from I'm looking for some of those.

[WALZ]

Your local hobby shop will have them or you can order on line...

[BrickHaus]

Awesome. I smell a wonderful project coming from this.

That tie rod deal looks almost like an automag sear pin. Or two of them put together. You say an rc shop will have them? Im gonna try this once I get my feet wet with the "TOTDMTC"

[Chuck E Ducky]

I love seeing the process of all these builds. I feel like you can appreciate a build more when you see all the custom work that goes into a piece. Just seeing the final product I feel like Im blinded by all the shiny bits and lose some of the amazing details that go into your builds that make them truly unique. Thanks for sharing.

[JeepDVLZ45]

Wally, thank you for this. I marked out a pistol frame last night to experiment myself. I would have been close, but not close enough! I couldn’t figure out how you relocated the trigger…this makes perfect sense!

I can’t wait to take the plunge and see what I can come up with myself.

[BrickHaus]

I sense a great Walzmas coming up! Pirate all the pgps!!!

[BLachance75]

Well that completely explains what I had messaged you about the other day.

[WALZ]

Here is the coupler for the front of the frame I made..
i used a 8/32 threaded rod ( you could also cut a screw down) , a cut in half 8/32 coupler ( about 1/2" long) and a 1" 8/32 screw for the stock retainer screw..
you need to cut a slot in the coupler for a flat head driver ( so you can anchor it from frame to body).

[JeepDVLZ45]

alright Wally…you inspired me to go for it today! (I hope it’s right).

Step 1 - done!

This weekend I should be able to get the trigger pin, trigger pin hole drilled, a new trigger made, and then get it cleaned up with a file.

[WALZ]

Looking good so far..
Now you need to cut the face down at the front where the screw/coupler will screw the frame to the body.. the pictures are not very good but if you look at the outlined frame above you can see where I just dremmeled/ filed the face down to about 1/8" thick..
One more thing, at the back where the new trigger will set you need to file/dremmel a longer slot so the trigger sets back further.. ( almost half way to the screw hole).
if I'm not being clear please hit me up..

[JeepDVLZ45]

Makes sense. I definitely just missed the proper “cut” on the front end. The rear notch is “forthcoming”. I think I misunderstood where that one goes. Thank you!

Thank you again. I’ll toss up another later when I get the cuts done so you can double check my work

You’re the best!

[JeepDVLZ45]

Getting closer… (never mind that it didn’t dawn on my that if I clamped this down in the middle I’d pinch it and bend the opening shut (oops)

it was spray-painted black at one point so it looks much worse in pictures than it is

[BrickHaus]

Can't wait to see your finished have you burned your tubes back together? Im curious on how tough it is if its your first time.

[WALZ]

That's perfect...
Now make sure you put the trigger back to the end of the radius section.. you will see there is not a lot of wiggle room for the sear if you install it to far forward..
I like to round the ends, it make it a bit easier to install in your wood.
When you cut down your trigger try to keep it as low as you can and still have room for the clevises to move freely, same with hole in trigger ( drill this one out just slightly bigger then the clevises pin ( I use 4/40 clevises). Or the trigger may have more play then you like..

[JeepDVLZ45]

BrickHaus

I have something special in mind for this one…something Wally would be proud of!!!
I’m hoping it pans out….I picked up a PGP from a member in a partial trade (and sold MY PGP to a other member…not sure why, I just figured my polished PGP would sell faster and I’ll put the elbow grease into this one.

WALZ
Thank you for the tips!!. I re-installed the sear and the original trigger so I can be sure the second trigger will fit.
I want to make a “rear trigger” before cutting it drilling anything. I’ve been trying to figure out what clevis pins you use. Now that I know they’re 4/40s, I’ll place an order and get some threaded rod, round some corners and keep my finger’s crossed.

I’m very excited to build this. I don’t want to try my hand at making a stock… yet, but I’ll pick up an old wooden rifle stock and pirate it for this build (eventually I want a Mare’s Leg…but in “Bob’s” words…Baby Steps)

I’ll take plenty of pictures along the way and probably start a new thread of if looks like it’s going well and might actually get completed. I’m hoping to have it ready for AnarcticArtic’s stock class game in June, but realistically, I move like a glacier (on and off the field) so having it ready for Slim’s Stocktoberfest is probably a more realistic timeframe.

Thank you again Wally for your help!!

[XEMON]

Thanks for the info and inspiration!

[Chuck E Ducky]

Looks clean..