Pgp2k new to me, tips?

[HBPredhunter]

I just got this on ebay, its a like new pgp2k which I've always wanted. Even has the sales receipt.

I want to bring this into service and use it, I just ordered seals from PGP junkies (from what I can tell the 12 gram seal is crumbled so it leaks when you put a cart in it)

everything else seems perfect but I know the plastic feed gates break easily on these
and I remember the bolt tends to chop paint and there was a Cooper T upgrade.
And does anyone freak these barrels or install detents?
Also grips. Is there a source for any other thing now or do I just put a WTB ad out?

[Jonnydread]

PGP bolts don't chop paint, the user chops paint

I highly recommend grabbing an RVA and springs as well from PGP Junkies, they make quality stuff.

As far as barrel mods go there are lots of smiths out there who can help you out, or you could do simple wedgits if you're feeling brave and sassy. Any specific parts or wants I would just put out a WTB ad. There is a large community of PGP modders and enthusiasts on here who will inundate you with lore.

Have fun with it!

[The Inflicted]

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3549755

Some PGP2s were made with their exhaust ports too far forward, meaning that when a ball is chambered the exhaust port with all the gas coming up to shoot the paintball is located directly under the ball instead of under and slightly behind it. This leads to the balls blowing up when shot. The fix for this is a bolt like the ones Cooper-T made that have a little moving nub that will push the ball slightly forward when the ball is chambered. There was some kind of DIY fix for this that I remember being somewhat complicated but I don't really remember what it entailed. Hopefully, yours won't need this fix. Mine did.

Ball detents are critical in these types of guns with modern paint. These can be hammered in using the edge of a nail or painted into the bore with nail polish and a long thin paintbrush. The nice thing about using nail polish is that if you get it wrong it's simple enough to remove them and try again.

I'm not aware of any readily-available aftermarket grips that fit the Sheridan frames. Palmer and PMI both put out nice enlarged grips but they command upwards of $50 or more. Perhaps someone is 3D-printing options these days. I had to grind down a spare cocker trigger plate and sear to have them work properly on my gun.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3529281

You can put autococker frames on these guns if you use a small tray-shaped spacer to contour the upper edge of the frame. I don't recall who was making these but I do think this is also something that you can find printed.

[Ecapnation]

Chopping paint is a problem of the user on the trigger in pumps.

The issue.... Which was a thing in al pgp's is they are rim fire and delicate paint will break.

Cooper t made a bolt with a little pusher to advance the ball off the air port

[JeeperCreeper]

Chopping paint is a problem of the user on the trigger in pumps.

The issue.... Which was a thing in al pgp's is they are rim fire and delicate paint will break.

Cooper t made a bolt with a little pusher to advance the ball off the air port

You can do the same thing with a 10-32 pan head screw, it usually helps

[Cunha]

Pgp2k are more paint explody than normal PGP

You need to push the ball further away from the exhaust port.

You can glue a washer on the bolt.

You can drill and screw a pan head bolt on the bolt.

Cooper T bolts are expensive and virtually non existant. Also they make the pump stroke a little more mechanically clonky. They do work well though. I'd just modify the stock bolt.

Also the threaded velpicty adjuster cap should not be bottomed on the body. A gap something like less than a dime is correct. Otherwise it will function poorly and it will be hard to figure out. There are only so many positions the cap can stop at cuz the trigger frame screw. Its like a whole rotation or two away from bottomed out, that is correct and is how they shipped out.

[Cunha]

Drcemento is 3d printing some awesome grips for stock Sheridan frames. Definitely reccomend

[HBPredhunter]

Awesome stuff guys and yes this one has a factory rva. I will get it sealed up and shooting soon. A freak bored barrel would be awesome

[jonbobshinigin]

I have one of these as well in pieces bit with a modified Bolt from Punishers Customs back in the day. Essentially, the bolt face was drill in the center and a small flat bolt got connected to the rear part of Bolt that unlock ball bearings. The Bolt on face is then flush in rearmost position and when pushed forward, it would move the ball forward the distance up the lock up. This effectively moves the ball PAST the valve port a bit which solved the problem. Sheridan put the valve opening too direct beneath the ball. This is worth looking into as well, but would need to be done a bit forwad if you do the bolt mod:

https://youtu.be/S39vzP5XyJ4?si=SlSpeBQchNtmiMLK

[Chuck E Ducky]

Jim used CCM S6 detent covers to add finger detents to his brass build. I thought that was a really cool idea and it looks clean and works well. Eliminates rolls outs with the need for a freak. I would do this mod after you figure out what you want to do with the bolt because it may change the balls location.

There are a few different center fire bolt options however they can be hard to find or a lil more costly to get someone to let it go. I have found a decent amount of them at local stock class events.

My Creeper Customs “PGP” was modified for a KP Speed Demon center fire bolt. It requires a bit of customization to work.

Another option is to start with a PMI that’s already KP length speed demon that is center fire.