TR.68 blender.. i mean, revolver

[ElectricBullshark]

Ok i got a umarex tr 68 a little bit ago, used it at a field, and it is basically a splatter snot launcher with a barrel. I think one ball made it out of the barrel.

Any tips, tricks, or mods, etc. known to correct this issue? Right now its basically a piece of belt candy that scares noobs, or a good way to practice cleaning a marker.

[nak81783]

Hopefully others can chime in on fixes.

However, my experience has been if it’s not specifically marketed solely for paintball (any talk of self defense, less lethal, etc.), it’s not going to work. The exceptions are the clones of actual paintball pistols (TiPx, FSC, Menace), provided they have provisions to adjust the velocity or are factory set to typical paintball velocity.

I recently tried some - Umarex PPQ 43, Umarex HDP50, Mercury Rise MUB50, and Lancer Scorpion 50. The only one that works is the Lancer Scorpion, because it’s a Menace clone.

If you bought it on Amazon, and it’s within the return window, send it back as defective for breaking paint (it says it can shoot it).

Stick to TiPX, FSC, Menace/Scorpion, JT ER2 (seems a lot of guys have fun with these for being just a cheap pump pistol), or the older stuff marketed strictly for paintball that’s no longer produced, e.g., AGD Sydarm, PGP, PT Extreme (or other variants), etc. Know that pistols are relatively hard on paint to begin with, so it’s best to use field grade paint or do a bounce test (drop paintballs from various heights onto concrete) to determine what it can handle. For example, my TiPX was breaking mid-level paint but did fine on field grade (but field grade bounced off opponents too much for my liking, especially when I’m handicapping myself playing with a pistol). I found as long as the mid-level could survive a drop from shoulder height, it was fine. If the paint from that batch/bag/case broke below shoulder height, it would break in the marker. Make sure you test at the temp and humidity of your playing conditions.