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Pro Carbine not recocking

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    Pro Carbine not recocking

    Really scratching my head on this one. Had a big game day and loaned it 2 years ago, was very busy at the time and didn’t notice all the paint that had gotten busted up inside of it until now. Before tear down, I put some air in it just to see what it was doing and was shooting incredibly hot. Didn’t have a chrono, but well over 300 fps in my estimation based on the curve balls and bark it was tearing off trees
    despite the velocity screw being all the way in ( in case that’s a clue of something) but still recocked.

    Doesn’t seem to be a low air issue. Same tanks on other blow backs are allowing function.

    Orings are not for specific pro carb rebuild; spare cocker rings on bolt and valve ring, all else are for a 98c.

    Post tear down and rebuild, it fires, but won’t recook itself. Still shooting hard, maybe slightly less than before. Any advice is appreciated, thank you.
    Last edited by Murdoc555; 03-23-2025, 03:06 AM.

    #2
    Your front bolt oring is likely too large, causing bolt stick.

    Comment


    • Murdoc555
      Murdoc555 commented
      Editing a comment
      The front bolt oring appeared to be the same size as the old original and it seems to be seated well within the grooves sufficiently. I did find a similar post from a few years back and after sticking a squeegee down the barrel and firing, the gun will cycle. According to this post, it’s providing back pressure, but I’m unsure how to get that to work as a permanent solution.

      Trying to fix a Tippmann Pro Lite The gun shoot but wont re-cock tested with CO2, with no paint in (dry fire) Anyone had this issue? could it be the pin limiting the valve movement? Did not dissassemble it yet and would like to know which parts I would need before I start Click image for larger version Name: Screenshot_2020

    #3
    They shouldn’t beed back pressure to recoil.
    Just try without a bolt oring. It’s worth a shot. I’ve had the same problem with the same perception.

    Comment


    • Murdoc555
      Murdoc555 commented
      Editing a comment
      I tried again without an oring and it didn’t work. Was able to refire with the barrel plugged with a squeegee though.

    #4
    Man, I have been having the same problem with a pro carbine I bought recently for nostalgia.

    I am using a 684 bigshot so maybe the oring getting stuck is the problem as well on mine.

    Comment


    • Murdoc555
      Murdoc555 commented
      Editing a comment
      I’ve tried it multiple ways with varying sizes or no oring, still not working. The only ground I’ve made to get it to cycle was sticking a squeegee down the barrel and according to the OP from the link I posted, provides needed back pressure. So somewhat diagnosed, but no remedy unless we get some further ideas here. I’m still waiting to hear back from them.

    #5
    Have you tried with paint? If the squeegee does it does paint ? I have one procarb that needs back pressure and it has a lightened hammer but paint does the job. What barrel you using?

    Comment


    • Murdoc555
      Murdoc555 commented
      Editing a comment
      Yeah, it shoots fine. And through all my tinkering was able to get my original velocity issue down it seems. 690 Lapco Bigshot.

      Edit: it was also cycling the same paint prior to the tear down.

    #6
    Back pressure definitely helps. But back in the day, I had a procarbine that would cycle with no back pressure at 650psi HPA. or I think it did.

    Comment


    • Murdoc555
      Murdoc555 commented
      Editing a comment
      Of all things holy I got it. It’s back to driving nails. A mere Hammer o ring replacement. I’m pretty sure I could Major Payne this bitch and assemble it blind folded hanging upside down before my knows starts to bleed.
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