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Select fire spyder, maybe easier than you think

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    #16
    Some of the old esp boards used CMOS jumpers to achieve the other fire modes no? This is where select fire comes in! Id either add a 3 pos slider, or a 4 position micro rotary switch. Then wire each jumper set to a set of poles. For each fire mode. And of course leave the 1st set of poles disconnected for semi.


    Then its a on the other hand reactive is my favorite fire mode on electros. I think Id just do this mod and expect to kill paint by the case.
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      #17
      Maybe, in the middle of a firefight though I don't want to have to worry about holding a button and pulling the trigger though

      I have an idea, I'll draw this up so it's easier to visualize but I think it might work

      Replace the normal on/off power switch on the frame with a 3 way switch.
      Position one) normal operation
      Position two) off
      Position the) auto response

      I'll have to make sure the switch can actually fit in the frame of course but the one I found has 8 prongs total, so each set of 4 next to each other is one of the selection positions

      Currently, the way the trigger switch is wired is

      1) nothing
      2) signal to board
      3 power from board

      Here's what I'm thinking, since the 3 way power switch has 8 prongs total, I think they run each side separate from each other, so I would need to splice the board power into positions 1 and 4 so the board is powered on either side of the switch, but then also take the power to the trigger switch, run to the AR side of the power switch and back to the trigger (using the second set of prongs).

      I would also be re wiring the trigger switch so it is as follows

      1) power from AR selection
      2) power from board
      3) signal to board

      This flips the current power and signal wires

      IF it all works out the way I hope it will this has two benefits

      1) I don't need to install a completely second switch somewhere

      2) if a user wants to go from a full auto or 3 shot burst mode into the AR mode, moving the switch across the off position should power cycle the board and therefore reset it to semi auto where it won't immediately go into full auto by receiving the off signal from the trigger

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        #18
        Originally posted by Brokeass_baller View Post
        Would it work with the other modes? Like 3-shot burst, for instance. 3 shots on the pull, 3 shots on the release.
        You might be on to something here. At first I thought no but I think actually, as long as you held the trigger through the first 3 shots it would register the release as the next "pull"

        I don't think it will work with full auto because it would be registering the trigger being released as it being constantly held
        Originally posted by BrickHaus View Post
        Some of the old esp boards used CMOS jumpers to achieve the other fire modes no? This is where select fire comes in! Id either add a 3 pos slider, or a 4 position micro rotary switch. Then wire each jumper set to a set of poles. For each fire mode. And of course leave the 1st set of poles disconnected for semi.


        Then its a on the other hand reactive is my favorite fire mode on electros. I think Id just do this mod and expect to kill paint by the case.
        Some boards sure, but most of them are push button select

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          #19
          Ok, ordered some switches, we (I) am going to try this out. In theory, I won't need a second switch, I'm just replacing the main power switch and doing some creative wiring



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          • BrickHaus

            BrickHaus

            commented
            Editing a comment
            So middle is off, slid to the left is semi, slid to the right is AR? Utilizing 5 posts total? With both centers bridged?

          • scottieb

            scottieb

            commented
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            That would be nice BrickHaus. On and off on the fly like the SPAR valve for the Automag.

          #20
          Will a wiring diagram on the back of a napkin be coming soon?
          '96 RF Mini Cocker, '95 RF Autococker, 68-Automag Classic, Banzai Splash Minimag, Gen-E Matrix, Shoebox Shocker 4x4, Montneel Z-1, Tippmann Pro-Carbine, Tippmann Mini-Lite, Tippmann Model-98, Tippmann 68-Special, Spyder .50 cal Opus/Opus-A , Tippmann .50 Cal Cronus , Gog Enmey .50 cal , Tippmann Vert ASA 68-Carbine, Bob Long Millennium, ICD Grey Green Marble Splash Alleycat Deluxe (runs liquid co2) , Halfblock 2K4 Prostock Autococker , 2K RF Sniper II

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            #21
            do this on a ROCKING trigger.

            it has 2 switches and only one is used at a time.

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              #22
              Originally posted by Tarsun2 View Post
              do this on a ROCKING trigger.

              it has 2 switches and only one is used at a time.
              I feel like you might just max out the ROF on the board.

              But if you go with an aftermarket board it may already have AR anyway

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                #23
                Originally posted by Meleager7 View Post
                Will a wiring diagram on the back of a napkin be coming soon?
                Here you are

                It's a little hard to see but the new power switch is 6 prongs, and as far as I can tell, each row of 3 works together

                Anyone see a problems with flipping the power and signal wires on the trigger switch?



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                • BrickHaus

                  BrickHaus

                  commented
                  Editing a comment
                  Hmm. Im not sure the on off switch works like you have it drawn. But I may be wrong. Ill try to napkin sketch my thoughts for ya and see if it helps or hinders ya.

                • Meleager7

                  Meleager7

                  commented
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                  nice, thanks !

                #24
                Originally posted by infamoussmiley View Post
                I have used two "toggle" switches with the modification you suggest. One to turn off the release signal, and one for the "power on".

                My question for you: Where does one find replacement switches?

                Best,

                Smiley
                The interwebs of course!

                I found a replacement power switch that is the same dimensions as the original

                The original is a 3 prong, 2 position switch

                My replacement is 6 prong, 3 position on/off/on

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                  #25
                  BrickHaus here's what I found for that switch

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                  • BrickHaus

                    BrickHaus

                    commented
                    Editing a comment
                    Nvm, your schematic was just cornfusing me with how you drew it up. Yeah that should work.

                  • grendal50
                    grendal50 commented
                    Editing a comment
                    I'm gonna have to look in my parts for one of those switches...... that looks like fun. Would need a label of some sort if someone else ever used it.

                  #26
                  ok quick search.

                  the 3 pin switch is ABC.

                  B is your common and AC is your load.

                  so your options are as follows:

                  AB or CB...

                  the 6 pin switch is like 2x 3 pin switches.

                  if we were to expand on this youd have something like the following

                  ABC
                  DEF

                  so your options are:

                  AD/BE or CF/BE

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                    #27
                    Originally posted by Trbo323 View Post
                    I feel like you might just max out the ROF on the board.

                    But if you go with an aftermarket board it may already have AR anyway

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                    Yes... the hardwire mod is limited only by the switch itself and the cycle rate of the marker / hopper. A rocking trigger with reactive fire would be pretty stupid lol.
                    Boards with reactive fire I think have a hard bps limit. There might be switch limits with firing on both sides of the click, potentially firing faster than the bolt cycle rate, so it is either very inefficient (skip shots), or doesn't really work well if firing too fast (seer misses).

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                      #28
                      Switches are in!!!

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                        #29
                        Oops....

                        Hold please

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                          #30
                          Also, just had another realization. There are 3 wires into the stock on off, not two. I'm not sure why anyone know,?

                          Charging circuit?

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