I'd give it a try.... I really wish they sold the apex carbon fiber tips still
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Deadlywind MOAB X8
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It's an old school rain cover guys. Like a taso, but not bulky. For the guys who aren't into old school pb, and weren't around or just aren't knowledgeable, it's a paintball suppressor.
Its not actually made to keep rain out of you barrel. It makes that little pop when you pull the trigger into a gopher fart. The rain prevention is just a side effect.
I ordered one, ill let everyone know how it goes.
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Originally posted by Bow View PostIt's an old school rain cover guys. Like a taso, but not bulky. For the guys who aren't into old school pb, and weren't around or just aren't knowledgeable, it's a paintball suppressor.
Its not actually made to keep rain out of you barrel. It makes that little pop when you pull the trigger into a gopher fart. The rain prevention is just a side effect.
I ordered one, ill let everyone know how it goes.
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Bow Doesn't look like it was cleared for what you call it. "although it resembles a suppressor." If it was, he wouldn't be able to ship to California, Hawaii, Illinois, New York, New Jersey, Massachusetts, Rhode Island, and Delaware. I am fairly certain I want to buy a rain cover in my state.
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All PB and Air rifles are 100% legal because it can’t be modified to operate in a way to function as a Suppressor for real steel. So there isn’t anything the ATF can do about it. Unless you own a dog then you better watch out, that justifies deadly physical force.
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"can’t be modified.." lol you are on MCB, that's all we do. Hand me the duct tape.
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the rain cover idea i understand, but what is the current obsession with needing different front and back bore sizes? Has anyone actually proved this does anything other than steal our heard-earned money? Seems to me that paint quality is like..95% or more of how the ball is going to travel anyhow, and no barrel will solve that.
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Exactly. I like DW but this seems like more unnecessary attempts at making paint somehow shoot better. I stopped chasing this when I noticed no difference in accuracy or consistency or efficiency between Dye UL-S, Dye UL-I, Stella, Freak etc etc etc. Barrel gimmicks are money grabs.
My last game experience, a one piece 688 outperformed an Acculock kit in every way lol. No matter what insert I used, wild inconsistency and chops, due to cold mostly though. Switched to the one piece and was able to actually play.
We need more investment in quality paint, not tubes with magical claims.
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Originally posted by martix_agent View Postthe rain cover idea i understand, but what is the current obsession with needing different front and back bore sizes? Has anyone actually proved this does anything other than steal our heard-earned money? Seems to me that paint quality is like..95% or more of how the ball is going to travel anyhow, and no barrel will solve that.
Is that what you're referring to - inserts - with "the current obsession with needing different front and back bore sizes"?Last edited by Jordan; 03-02-2024, 08:27 PM.
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Originally posted by martix_agent View Postthe rain cover idea i understand, but what is the current obsession with needing different front and back bore sizes? Has anyone actually proved this does anything other than steal our heard-earned money? Seems to me that paint quality is like..95% or more of how the ball is going to travel anyhow, and no barrel will solve that.
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8"-10", actually. I trawled the AO posts that Tom made, his testing indicated that 8-10" was optimal for efficiency. I couldn't find anywhere where the marker being tested was noted, but I would imagine it was an Automag.
I think Glenn decided on 11"... I remember reading (on the POG?) that that was the reason Nastys have 11" barrels and no porting.
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I like a 14” control bore personally on my pumps. One piece baby!
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Originally posted by Jordan View Post
I like using inserts, they stop rollouts on my pumps. That's it, though.... crap paint is still crap paint.
Is that what you're referring to - inserts - with "the current obsession with needing different front and back bore sizes"?
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We dont have to understand it...lol. I think there might e some minor efficency gains in using a closer to bore size front. really for its for people like me who overthink things and like trying new things or concepts. If it wasnt for people trying to make different products would we have the amount of aftermarket parts and upgrades? or we would still be using hardware store pipe parts and pvc for upgrades.....lol.
Or, yes it maybe to sell more barrels, I think Inception started the barrel front bore sizes.
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Originally posted by martix_agent View Post
I understand the need for bore sizing on closed bolt designs, and the "need" for it on anything else, but I don't understand why we're now adding different bore sizes for the second1/2 or 1/3 of the barrel.
I try not to let this kind of stuff keep me up at night, I feel like there are too many things to worry about as it is without stressing about a niche item within a niche sport. (Cough cough Shocktech feedneck thread debacle cough.)
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It came in the mail today, looks stunning on the T2. I have zero worries about the plastic front cap popping off. I removed it by hand after pushing out the inner insert. Reinserting it when the inner insert was in place and it took a good amount of force with a clear pop when it seated. I don't think it's gonna pop out during normal play.
Looks like they have plans for removable/interchangeable barrel threads.
It is threaded for the rifled PWR inserts.
Obviously a bit heavier than any of the standard CF one piece barrels they sell, but its not heavy at all. Had about the same OD as an Old bull barrel/T2 body.
Pwrs have a nice tight fit and lines up perfectly. I got the middle sized front insert.
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Mine didn't look like it rattled either. The insert and the front are pretty well secured in there.
Sounds louder at the shooter side than my s63 with a whip tip. I need to hear it at range to get a real idea, but that's how my sm sounds. So I'll have to update, maybe tomorrow to see if there's a big difference we rence down range.
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Anyone got a picture of it apart. I’m confused is it just a CF unported barrel over a ported CF barrel that takes the newer PWR inserts all the companies are going to?
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Ok so it’s still ported forward. I think the reason the whoosh works well is because it’s ported backwards toward the user. I do like the look of it even though it looks like a nightmare to clean on a break.
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part of me wonders about porting the front insert to vent to the rear insert chamber. I may have to buy another to drill some holes in... for science.
Now that i think about it though, i could probably slot it since the oring is really only there for help center the system in the shroud.....yep thats going to happen.
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Originally posted by Jordan View Post
. (Cough cough Shocktech feedneck thread debacle cough.)
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So Bow brings up a good point if you are not getting shot at by it how do you know the signature and really care. If someone was to truly test all barrels, in an ideal situation it would be a 600 yard circular Anechoic chamber with 360 degree microphone coverage every 25 yards, testing every facet of a paintball barrel / marker. With that said what is the minimum that could be gotten away with to test a barrel or barrel system? Would a phone recording audio a set distance away from a set test marker be enough with say 10 shots for each barrel. Would adding a second phone / remote controlled microphone say 20 yards down range (should that device be in a mask) be enough? I can see ways of over doing it and making it way to much but I can also see ways of not gathering enough data in the initial test that would make it useless.
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Fixed distance microphones at reasonable ranges and at least 4 (forward, right, left and behind the marker). Recording before the shot and during the shot so you can factor out (most) background noise (or continuous measurement and recorded time stamps which would be better) . Use a basic barrel as a base then repeat with each barrel you want to test. Then Repeat the measurements at different reasonable distances then dump the data into a spreadsheet and use an acoustic analysis SW to run the numbers. I think I would be interested in using 8 mics and start at 10 yard distance and increase the mic distances by 10 yards out to 100 yards. It would be best to use actual measurement microphones vs. cellphones as you will have more variability between cell phones.
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Most players "Test" sound signature, not sound report. Well setup Whoosh increase sound signature, while lowering sound report. This barrel likely dose the opposite judging that it works in reverse of how the whoosh works. Not that it makes a massive difference but its noticeable at the cost of service if something goes wrong. This makes sense by design for DW due to how the majority of paintballers "test" a barrel. screw it on shoot over the chrono and judge the sound to whatever barrel was currently replaced. Few people have the luxury of options as well so its new, there for its better because its CF and expensive and looks cool. Very few people buy a barrel by how it sounds getting shot at them and each setup is different. It's really a trial and error thing. I have a standard Dw barrel that's a cannon on some markers and whisper quiet on others. That same marker that the DW is a cannon on I put a Dye UL on and it's no longer a cannon. I don't know what cause this or care to figure it out. What I do know from experience is if you want a quiet shooting marker it's a trial-and-error process not a (X brand is best thing). That being said I'm sure this is a very nice barrel kit I hear great things about the PWR barrel system. I don't think it warrants dumping my freak setups for it they suite me just fine. Maybe one day we will get a good enough ball and can take advantage of an good insert system like this but not with today's paint. I overbore everything with functioning detents.
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