-That's on the list, but these days, I sure can't give any kind of an ETA.
Personally, just for a one-off, I'd find a tight-bore Phantom barrel and have the end turned down to fit the SL.
Doc.
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Doc,
Do you know the thread specs for the solenoid mounting screws for a Shocker Sport?
The ones I got from another source were too short in the four bodies I tested and they won't respond to email.Leave a comment:
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I've been wanting to get my hand on one of those ... They don't seam to pop up for sales much ... -
What I dreamed up back in the day was a pseudo Tippmann with the valve body trapped between the forward and rear bolts inside the NelSpot body with four connecting rods instead of the one (thought process being alignment and spreading the cross sectional.mass to maintain strength), feed the valve thru the cocking knob slot with a standard Nel sear on the cable body. The stock valve body replaced with a sleeve that over laps instead of going in the main body and that contains the drive spring. Shrinking the valve to fit inside the Nel body made me think I would need to extend it a bit...
I might be able to dig up my old drawings if any of that made sense...Leave a comment:
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A system similar to a DSDS Semi might work, it's basically what you're talking about. The valve is a small tube with holes around the outside, when you pull the trigger it pushes out with pressure, blows its wad and gets pushed back in with a spring where its held with a sear. -
-Well, it's tricky in a lot of not-so-commonly-known ways, too. A 'miniaturized" Automag system, for example, if made with a small enough dump chamber to be able to run unregged CO2, would end up having an incredibly fast bolt speed. Fast enough that I suspect heavy ball breakage would be a serious and chronic problem. (Keeping in mind that one of the chief features of the Level 10 bolt is that it intentionally slows down the first part of the bolt travel, which goes a long ways towards paint survivability.)
So with that in mind, unless we could add a LOT of mass to the bolt some how (lead? tungsten?) a spooler might wind up a better bet, and that opens up an entirely different set of problems to solve.
Doc.Leave a comment:
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-I've got them in, and they're on the bench, but I haven't had much free time to fiddle just yet. I'm going to have to dig out- excavate is more like it
- one of my spare LED bodies and sit down and do some fitting. I have no doubt the solenoid will work, the only question is will it fit.
And, since I never ginned up a proper drawing back in the day, I need to take the finished part, once it's fitted and tested, and do up a proper dimensioned drawing, and/or a workable CAD model.
Doc.Leave a comment:
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Doc, have you taken a look at the Humphrey solenoids to see if they will work for the led manifolds?Leave a comment:
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I was thinking along similar lines re: AutoMag - my knowledge of AutoMags is incredible shallow.
My thought was a bore-drop sleeve to act as the front spring seat, but it would require some sort of alignment system to keep it from free floating and closing the opening.
My ideal concept is to not replace the trigger, maybe use a spacer plate with the A-Mag sear to ride and rock on the stock trigger.
After that, I come to the extent of my understanding...
Another thought would be electric with a rocker switch and maybe AA or AAA batteries in the stock trigger frame.
I had drawn up a mechanical semi-auto drop-in based on a Tippmann right as the auto-Traccer was coming out, end of the PMI-III era...
I never got beyond Patent-Pending, certainly no proof of concept prototype... :-(
Not being a machinist sucks!
:-)
If I could afford to send you a down payment, I would...
But if I could afford to pay you what it would take to make this, I could afford to learn to run the machines and buy them - I know what your skill is worth. :-)Leave a comment:
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-If you already have a known, proven, tested design to go by? Fiddly, I'm sure, but straightforward.
If you don't have a known, tested design, and have to clean-sheet it yourself? There's where it gets tricky.
It's theoretically possible, sure. Obviously some sort of simplified, compact Automag valve, or close to it. Personally, I've always wondered about making a 'Mag valve with a small enough dump chamber you could run it on unregged CO2.
The biggest trick I can think of is how to make a trigger work. We can basically assume you'll have to replace the trigger, but for the moment we may still be able to make it drop-in, without requiring a new frame.
The problem is, making a super-short dump-chamber valve that short- the length between the nose of a 007 bolt and the end of the sear, which is what, about 1-1/2" at best? With an extended trigger, you might be able to move the "on off" rearward a tad more to gain more room.
Maybe something like an Equalizer or Desert Fox valve? I'd suggest a spooler, but that would require something like an Emek trigger valve mounted in the frame, and some way to connect it to the spool... and I don't think there's room for that.
One main thing to keep in mind? The insert body would have to have a "sleeve" of some sort, to convert the breech of the gun into a bore drop. The stock breech-drop chamber combined with semi-auto bolt speeds turns into a blender in a big hurry.
All in all? Not impossible, but also not very bloody easy... Line SI was working on a "drop in" unit for Bushmaster pumps back in '89. Did indeed look vaguely like a sort of self-contained 'Mag valve, but of course nothing ever came of it. And once actual semiautos came out, there really wasn't much reason to keep working on development.
Send me a nice weighty down payment and I'll get started.
Doc.Leave a comment:
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Work is sucking big time today, so I'll bite...
Doc,
How difficult would it be to fabricate a drop-in semi-auto mechanism (not pneumatic cocking) into a stock Nel-Spot 007 body & frame without structural changes?Leave a comment:
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