Cocker Timing Issue - bolt not returning

[Cdn_Cuda]

Working on my Fishbone trying to get the 3-way dialed in. I have stopped the leak and upon pulling the trigger back it recocks the marker. When releasing the trigger the 3-way essentially sticks and doesn’t move forward and the trigger stays in the same spot. Is this simply a return spring g issue in the trigger frame or am I missing something?


oracle 3 way with a slide trigger frame. Front of ram is connected to the back of the 3-way and the rear of the ram to the front.

i have checked the ram for suction and it was fine.

update: put a stronger return spring in the frame and helps a little bit

[Sottyman]

Is everything in good working order (i.e.. nothing bent/out of spec)? All 3-way o-rings in good shape? There's the 3 way rod o-rings AND the adjustable spool o-rings. Does the trigger/3 way rod return when not aired up?

[Cdn_Cuda]

Works fine when not aired up and all new o-rings on the 3 way.

[Sottyman]

How tight is the 3-way screwed into the front block? Is it all the way in tight, or is there a little wobble/play? If the front block has a set screw, is it being used?

[Ecapnation]

Lpr might be way to high or creeping

[Cdn_Cuda]

LPR is out as far as I can get it. If I lightly bump the timing rod it returns into place.

[Sottyman]

What happens if you increase LPR pressure? Same thing?

[Cdn_Cuda]

Looks like there is more to my issue. The marker cycles but does not shoot. So no air is getting through the valve. HPR Reg is set for about 375.

Pulled the valve, nothing wrong there short valve spring

Might try and swap the valve?!

[Sottyman]

Looks like a ST Rat valve. Should be an easy rebuild if you get the valve stem and valve face o-rings, but I doubt the valve is the issue. I assume you've confirmed the air passages from the VASA into the body are clear? Would make sense if you're getting pressure to the LPR already...

Can you confirm the hammer is hitting the valve stem? Is it not letting ANY air flow, or is it a weak fart-y kinda thing? If you turn the LPR completely off and manually cycle it, will it fire then?

[Cdn_Cuda]

Swapping the valve resulted in no change. Valve does not appear to open.

And now I’m blowing hoses…. Sigh.

[Sottyman]

What LPR are you using?

[Ecapnation]

Swapping the valve resulted in no change. Valve does not appear to open.

And now I’m blowing hoses…. Sigh.

Whats the lpr?

Everything is pointing to that

[Cdn_Cuda]

Palmer. Rebuilt it but maybe assembled it wrong? Can take it apart again.

[Pyrate Jim]

Hmm...
A long shot, but I once faced a problem with a sticky 3-way.
Turned out, the barbs were screwed in too far, into the body of the 3-way and interfering with the O-rings.

[Sottyman]

That's a good point. Cuda, does your 3 way have the barb spacers?

[Cdn_Cuda]

Yes has barb spacers.

[Sottyman]

Cdn_Cuda, this is the gun, right?

https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/p...shbone-rebuild

Please tell me you took that blue shrink wrap off the timing rod lol

[Cdn_Cuda]

I have not but guess I will now!

[Cdn_Cuda]

Shrink wrap removed. No change though. Same issue.

[warbosschoppa]

Cdn_Cuda, this is the gun, right?

https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/p...shbone-rebuild

Please tell me you took that blue shrink wrap off the timing rod lol

100% agree

Also make sure you actually have the hammer resetting behind the sear and can recock properly.

[Cdn_Cuda]

Seems to recock fine, just not getting the valve to move. Spring issue?

[Magmoormaster]

I had this issue with my trilogy once. Turned out the valve retention screw was a touch too long (or would vibrate loose) and would push on the trigger plate, and caused it to bind. Also make sure your trigger glide screws aren't too tight.

Also curious, if you gas the gun up uncocked, and push on the cocking rod, will the valve pop open then?

[Cdn_Cuda]

I will try this and report back

[Cdn_Cuda]

Yes, I can manually pop the valve open this way.

[Cdn_Cuda]

Thinking this may be more a spring issue than a 3-way issue as the 3-way appears to be working. I can also swap the trigger frames and see if I can isolate the issue. Throw the hinge frame back on and swap the hoses and see how things go.

[Buff_phroggie]

I had a simmilar issue a while back with a GX5. I think there was some kind of weird combination of timeing issue. I basically just fucked with it until it worked. I have since learned WAY more so Im not really sure what the issue was

[Cdn_Cuda]

Swapped to the hinge frame and marker will fire. Needs fine tuning which I may get to, so looking like the trigger plate on the slide trigger being interfered with. When I have time and patience I’ll see if I can get it up and running with the hinge frame. If I could get the parts I wanted in Canada I would have already ordered them….

[Magmoormaster]

SInce you said it returns fine without ait, it sounds like a combination of LPR pressure and a light trigger spring. Most likely more LPR than anything. You said the knob is as far out as it can go? It should be off at that point.

[Cdn_Cuda]

Yes, the knob was so loose it would just come out. There was no pressure on it at that point, so the LPR would have been at its lowest point.

[Ecapnation]

Did you swap the threeway lines when going from hinge to slider?

[Cdn_Cuda]

Yes, when swapping to the hinge frame I changed the hose positions.