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Picked this up thanks to superman. Rt with a level 10 to drop in the gen 3. Got an 850psi output hpa tank I’m hoping will be enough for a good RT effectComment
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Bad ass you got a micromag etched valve a little jealous ain't gonna lie.Comment
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So happy I found one. Sandman didn’t even know they existed. I remembered a small batch of micromag rts way back when. Used to be super into paintball 20 plus years ago and seeing some. Not sure if this is original or something superman did custom but I don’t care it’s so awesome. Might have to try it in the gen 1 for the fun of it. I’d like to keep that stock in the long run though as it belonged to my late father. Everyone I know remembers the sound of that thing. Sounds like a real gun. The velocity would crank so high since we played on our land that everybody feared it. Can’t imagine what it would be like ripping on rt.
i have everything in order just need to make the swap and get some compressed air filled which isnt easy in my area.
Anything else I am missing that I might need for the gen 3 set up? I remember some power feeds needing a different plug or detent whatever you call it? The gen 3 has cocker threads. I read paint runs small these days. What is the best barrel/sizer system these days that won’t bankrupt me?Comment
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Also, if the 850psi ninja reg doesn’t work I have an Air America Raptor Rex reg and rebuild kit that goes up to 1000psi I believe. I have a 12 volt view loader revvy I need to test. I doubt that’s enough to keep up with an RT. What’s a good hopper these days? There are so many now. I think the halo just hit last I was involvedComment
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if you want to run high pressure and bounce…
Halo V35 kept up back in the day… they’re still around for good prices.
Rotors can drop test 40+ BPS… that would keep up for sure.
HK Pinocchio/Speed hoppers drop test 30+ BPS, and handle small paint and Reball extremely well (because they’re not true force-feed).
Qloaders, are probably the fastest of all, but the most finicky and lowest capacity…
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So finally for my tank filled and went to work tearing down, cleaning, and putting it back together with the new valve and RT trigger. The gun airs up fine, no leak, sear seems to make a click and it has pressure on it, however, nothing happens when I squeeze the trigger. Sometimes it will fire but usually nothing. Messed with the velocity but a bit and nothing. Was then considering if it was the level 10 even though Superman got it working before sending it but wasn’t sure if the different body would make any difference . I put the level 7 back in and same result so was thinking maybe the on off or something with the trigger sear?
when I pulled the trigger the little silver rod that connects to the sear and goes behind the trigger kind of moves upwards towards the top of the frame. Unfortunately, the screw holding the trigger frame to the gun near the trigger guard is stripped so I’m having trouble getting it off. Have 850psi going to the gun.
Any thoughts? Thank you!Comment
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Thank you! I agree about the sear rod. When I pull the double trigger the rods moves north and seems to just not push back enough to engage. Thanks for the heads up on the bolt. I will try that first. Looks awesome though.
and Superman I love the inception on/off. Really slick and worth the priceComment
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So lengthened the sear rod. Also checked the bolt and it does go all the way in the chamber. I played around with the velocity adjuster on the back of the valve and adjustments in that would usually make it fire onceComment
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Still can’t get it to function. Replaced it with an ANS phase 2 original valve and fires fine so I doubt it’s anything with the trigger or sear. Replaced the level 10 a regular bolt assembly on the RT and it doesn’t fire still so must be the valve. Orings look good from what I can tell. I heard the tiniest bit of air release down the barrel for a split second when I adjusted the velocity. It’s been 20 years since I worked on a mag so kind of starting from scratch again. I will hopefully be able to figure it out and if not I will send it in to somebodyComment
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Hello, I had an issue with my newly acquired gen 2 micromag with micromag rt valve and level 10 bolt not firing. The trigger would go all the way back and feel mushy and wouldn’t fire. I tried all sorts of things to get it to work and what got it working was pulling the on/off assembly out of the bottom of the valve, taking out the lower oring (see pic), lubing it, and putting it all back together. Might be worth a shot if you haven’t tried it already.Attached FilesComment
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Thank you so much for the help! That’s exactly how mine feels. I had already done what you said but I’m going to try a different set of orings and maybe more oil. I will try again hopefully that does itComment
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Just to be clear, is the o-ring you removed the one that goes on the square brass piece that threads in? Or where you removed the larger o-ring that goes on the base of the pin that is next to the 004 tiny one? I’m assuming the latter. I have read of some valves not needing them. I got my hpa tank output tested today because I had bought it used and wanted to eliminate that variable. It has 850psi output and that should be enough. I took it apart, and replaced every o-ring once again using an awesome chart I found to double check. Oiled the hell out of it. No change. However, I forgot the advice you gave me. Tomorrow afternoon going to restrip it and try that. The symptoms are so similar that I’m really hoping it works. No leaks or anything whatsoever anywhere elseComment
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The oring I took off, lubed, and put back on was the larger oring that’s on the square part of the on/off assembly that’s sandwiched between the base and the top that screws on.
Not sure if you saw my thread (“Micromag won’t fire”) on page 7 but there were some different solutions discussed including pin length.Comment
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