Inception Designs 3way timing trouble

[maggot]

Are you trying to set that Dye frame up with a 1mm trigger pull? Look at how it's half-way pulled in the resting position, and you also have a rear-travel trigger stop. Back those stops all the way out.
After doing that, adjust the timing rod until you've got it firing consistently without leaks.

[Paradigm 117]

It has enough pull to operate the factory 3way so you'd think it would work with a 3way touted as having the quickest switching and smallest required travel of any 3way lol, but you could be on to something. Just wouldn't make any sense.

[maggot]

Do they advertise it as having the smallest required travel? The ID actually requires longer, and the reason is that it uses a smaller o-ring. Less o-ring surface area means it has to travel the full ID of the barb to switch (and also vents a whole lot because of this). That whole thing aside, you don't want a pull that short anyways. Will just lead to short strokes.

[Paradigm 117]

A good point, I suppose that was more my assumption than their claim. Will look into trying this next.

[Super69ur]

Just gotta lengthen the timing rod.

[SVTCOBRA2003]

I am gonna bring this thread back because I am having the same issue at the OP was having on my current build. First time using inceptions pneumatics. Stock wgp slide frame.. I cannot get the 3 way to not piss air out of all the vent holes to save my life. I have built and tuned plenty of cockers through the years and have been extremely successful timing them to perfection. But never used these pneumatics and I'm honestly stumped. The only thing I can think is my timing rod is too short maybe? But that doesn't make sense because I have plenty of travel in the actuator adjustment and nothing will stop the leak.


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[HBPredhunter]

Having the same problem with inception pneumatics. My 3 way just will not stop leaking. I am stumped because I have been working ok cockers for 25 years and thought I understood how these things worked ha. Only have 12 grams to test with, closest shop is hour drive and i only have a 13 tank in hydro anyhow it will drain in seconds

[zmannz1984]

I would hook everything up as normal, but leave the timing rod out of the gun so the 3 way and its shaft are just in there. Turn the LPR out to zero and air it up, then turn the LPR up enough to get the pneumatics to move just a bit. From there, move the 3 way shaft back and forth until you can get the ram forward. If it leaks, keep moving it around and see if you can stop it. Try more LPR pressure if needed.

If you can't get it to a point where the 3 way doesn't leak, then your 3 way seals or something in the pneumatics are the issue. If it doesn't leak and you can switch it to cock the gun and leave it, and it STILL doesn't leak, then the pneumatics and seals are ruled out.

Add the timing rod back and try again. If it goes back to leaking no matter where the timing is set, then the timing rod is pushing the 3 way shaft out of line and causing the leak. The rod may be bent or the 3 way collar may be threaded crooked. You may just need to bend the angle of the rod to make it not bind due to the frame. And so on.

Seeing several people with this issue makes me thing Inception might have messed up a few 3 ways? If so, probably the timing rod threads.

[Chemical-x.....ahain]

ive got the current gen UFC and I cant set it in a way where its timed and not leaking. does anyone have a fool proof solution aside from tossing a pump kit on it? id consider an E2 in black.

[Walker]

You know the 3-way is good, since it works on the blue gun.

1. Look at the front of the 3-way when it is on the blue gun and note where the shaft is in relation to the front of the switch, this is where should be when placed on the orange one.
2. Move the ID 3-way to the orange gun, hoses should be the same as when it is on the blue.

Orange gun:
1. Remove the frame (leave the timing rod and collar on the 3-way shaft)
2. Turn off the LPR (unscrew the knob)
3. Set the 3-way so the end of the shaft is close to the location it was on the blue gun.
4. Air it up, valve should seal and no leaks should be present.
5. Make sure the timing rod is not dragging on the hole in the VASA, as this will skew the 3-way shaft.
6. Turn the LPR on, since you know there are no leaks on the blue, and the 3-way shaft is in the same (or close to) position it was on the blue, there should be no leaks. (You may have to make a minor adjustment to get it to seal.)
7. This is the base setting for the 3-way you are using.


If it seals (and if your HPR/LPRs are working properly it should);
1. Adjust your LPR so that when you move the timing rod in/out the back block moves front to back as it should.
2. Do not mount your frame, but hold it up so the mount holes are in the same position and look at where the timing rod is in relation to the hole in the trigger plate/frame (when the trigger is at rest).
3. If they don't match then screw/unscrew the timing rod until they do.
4. Degas the gun and mount the frame. The timing rod should slide into the hole without being moved in either direction.
5. At this point you will need to adjust the timing rod to get the switch to activate the way you like it.

The above steps should work, no matter what 3-way you are using.....

Safety Note: Make sure no part of your hand impedes the movement of the back block when it moves in/out. The pinch that can occur is painful.... Ask me how I know...