How trash are the composite frames?

[JonM]

I am still curious about using the Palmer's carbon fiber frame. I I understand it would need Sheridan internals to use as a swing trigger on a Sniper platform. PPS said they have a stock trigger laying around they can toss in.

So what are all the pieces I would need in order to use on a Sniper and not need to modify?

I used one of the CF Palmer frames on my Sniper. The internals are from a PGP and work great. The only issue I had was with the sear spring not being long enough, but I was able to shim it with a bolt.

[Spider!]

I couldn't find my old AGD frame assembly pics.

Here's a 45 frame. Since it is on a pistol, the only thing I have to watch for is to not tighten the frame screws too much. I have played several long days with this pistol. Since this build is light it only has to stand up to pumping, which is light, being a regulated setup. It is a slider.




This is a WGP composite slider. It seems tough enough. I have played a 45/45 on it a few times, but have a 13ci for it now. Again, light duty.



These two superbolts are my workhorses. They are stock AGD frames with the superbolt sear and a #4 screw that sticks out of the AGD trigger to hit the sear. The threads are ground off were the screw meets the sear. The trigger bottoms out before the sear mechanism hits anything, so there's not a big load on the screw that is in the trigger. I haven't tried other sears or a slider plate in an AGD frame.



All of these builds are very light bodies with the light frames, so I don't mind being a little more careful with the WGP frames. I've had two of the bad frames that look exactly like the one on the gator marker. I couldn't find a mold mark worth of difference. Those two broke as soon as I tightened the rear frame screw. Even though these two have survived and seem better, I don't leave them in the sun or use solvents on them. I can say the gator frame is slightly gray and has a dull sound to it, where the bad frames were shiny black and sounded brittle in the first place.

[Toestr]

Thread resurrection time! Does anyone have a picture of one of these reinforcing plates for a potmetal frame?

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[Brokeass_baller]

Reinforcing plates? Maybe somebody with more experience than I would know what you're talking about, but something like Palmer's UMB comes immediately to mind. Should be really easy to outline and cut out of thin sheet steel from Home Depot. Reinforce the bottom line screws with a steel nut or something, maybe. Might be pretty easy to reinforce these puppies.

[Toestr]

I'm not entirely sure what a reinforcing plate is either, I just saw it mentioned earlier in the thread. I assume it is something that sits inside the grip and adds more threads to the bottomline? I guess it would have to be milled out?

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[Toestr]

Ok, so I made what I envisioned to be a reinforcing plate. Drilled each side separately then cut them out with a hack saw. Then it took several hours of filing to get the dimensions correct. I'd imagine this could be milled much more quickly. I'm not really sure if these are worth the time doing by hand.

I've included the dimensions I used to drill and get a rough cut for these in the last photo. I recommend you measure your own frame and adjust accordingly. I also recommend you add .010"-.025" on each side to whatever half your frame width is when drilling the holes. This plate sat perfectly flush with the outside of the frame but I forgot to take into account that the grip panels were slightly warped outward at the bottom, so the plate was not tight against the threads of the screw. A line of JB Weld solved the issue but it doesn't look as clean.

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[Jordan]

I'm not the kind of guy to do a superman into a bunker, so maybe that's why, but I've never broken a potmetal frame. Stripped threads and had to helicoil, but never broken...

I think the reinforcement plate is an answer in search of a question.

[Grendel]

Same, potmetal frames have always been pretty solid for me my issue was with the later Plastic ones that differed from the ones that are similar to the CF that AGD used. They lacked some of the webbing inside the frame and the grip section would just break off the upper section. They tended to be glossier in appearance then the other composite frames.

[Toestr]

I'm not the kind of guy to do a superman into a bunker, so maybe that's why, but I've never broken a potmetal frame. Stripped threads and had to helicoil, but never broken...

I think the reinforcement plate is an answer in search of a question.

You could very well be right. I was just reading through this thread and saw it mentioned. I'd like to use a single hole frame for a build and I figured making these couldn't hurt.

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[Cdn_Cuda]

I just ended up with a plastic two hole 45 grip frame. In all honestly it feels pretty nice. BUT upon closer inspection I noticed cracks along the top of the frame above the trigger frame. I’ll get some pictures.

[latches109]

Those all crack. You need to find later version AGD helped make.

[Brokeass_baller]

latches109 Did AGD ever assist in the Worr Games composites? I remember hearing in a podcast that TK offered their manufactured CF frames to Orr, but Orr declined for some reason or another. Did they end up collaborating? Because that would be awesome, and something I never knew about.

I remember AGD's reputation suffered a bit because of the Autococker composite issues. I don't think it was until TK did the Miata stress test that people opinions changed.

[latches109]

iirc there is a video somewhere of Bud saying TK helped them solve the cracking issue. Not sure if AGD manufactured them or not.