Meteor Cocker Pump Disassmebly

[Cdn_Cuda]

Finally got my Meteor, so time to take it apart — actually, let’s start from the beginning on this:

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[Cdn_Cuda]

So lots of bits and pieces to install, and I had a stray little part that later found a home:

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So make sure you check your boxes!

Now don’t be alarmed, the ASA is here, it was just loose so I removed it. But here’s the marker:

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First thing to note is the milling on that frame is no joke!

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And sneaking ahead a little to where I removed the trigger frame:

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IMG_1775.jpg The back block fits nicely with the body and is very nice and light. but meaty in all the right places.

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[Cdn_Cuda]

IMG_1776.jpg Behind the back block is the IVG. Was a little surprise to see it’s just a standard single hole IVG, but given the price point understandable. Likely be replacing it with an easier to adjust version I have in my parts kit.

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The cocking rod is nice, but don’t forget to adjust it and loctite it! My knob spun off while trying to remove the cocking rod.

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So let’s pump back to take look at the pump handle, and it’s a pretty unique setup.

It’s got a fluted pump rod:

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And small bearings along the top of the pump. This is where my stray part belonged! It appears to be just press fit into the pump rod. Hopefully it does’t fall out while using it.

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And a look at the handle and internals including return spring:

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IMG_1781.jpg IMG_1780.jpg At the front of the pump hand is pump return tension adjuster. Screw in, for a stronger return, screw out of a lighter return.




This is the feature that may affect me the most. I’m not worried about adjusting the tension (one can just switch springs) but the adjustment knob may I interfere with how I how my pump handle. I strongly disliked the ID Drift pump kit handle. Have to see how this fairs


And here is how the bearings fit with the pump handle:

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And just to update, I had no issue using the pump kit and found it very comfortable to play with. The adjustment nob was not a factor.

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And this takes us to the bolt.

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I received a bolt with dual o-rings and detent channels on both sides.

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It’s open faced with a decent air passage.

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[Cdn_Cuda]

Other interesting notes is the VASA has a hole for a timing rod, meaning those can be used to make a full
cocker.

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And now I’m going to leave you hanging! I can’t find an Allan key to adjust the lug so can’t get to the rest of the internals yet. Plus I’m hungry!

I’ll be back at it soon enough though.

[Cdn_Cuda]

3mm Allan key for the win!

I’ve pulled the lug up and removed the hammer:
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dual plastic retaining screws, rounded lug tip.

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And bad news for those dropping Lazarus valves into this, the hammer is not flush c meaning it may have issues with the Laz valve.

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[Grendel]

You could easily cut a piece of Delrin or even gasket material and glue into the hammer recess to fix the problem. For a balanced valve the surface really does not need to be very hard.

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Update - had no issue dropping a laz valve into this.

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The VASA comes off with an Allan key, which is nice.
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VASA has a nice o-ring and a good size air passage:

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[Cdn_Cuda]

Now let’s get a look at the internal Meteor is using. They have bored their bodies out a full 11/16th, so they use the larger cocker valves.

Here’s an overview of the full lower kit. This runs from the front of the pump rod, right to the cocking rod.

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And a few move images of the front “pump rod section that continues into the body:

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And to answer a question below, the internals are held in place by the VASA screw and the front frame screw, so in two places:

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[Grendel]

How is the pump guide secured into the body?

[Cdn_Cuda]

I believe the VASA bolt and the front trigger bolt holds the assembly together.

[Jordan]

That's good to know... I've got a build I'm planning that uses a Meteor pump kit, now I know how I'm setting up the front frame screw.

These writeups are great... thanks for taking the time!

[Cdn_Cuda]

And here is the stock valve and valve on and spring. Note the shape of the valve spring .

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The valve itself has a dual o-ring design and is closed at the bottom

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