Yeah tippmann more or less abandon the marker once they moved on to the phenom. The phenom was based on the same valve (the flex) but they changed enough that I'm not even sure how many of the parts are compatible.
1. The front grip is actually connected to the air channel. I couldn't find one of those aftermarket bottom line adapters and after watching a video of the install I was surprised that all you do is just take off the stock front grip and put on the little adapter. So I had an idea. I replaced the stock grip with a AGD foam gas thru with a CP gauge adapter. I was able to drop it to roughly 240-250psi from 280psi to get the same velocity.
2. The MRT bolt from TechT let me drop it more from 240 all the way down to 200psi. That was huge. I'm not sure why Tippmann put such a heavy front bolt on the Crossover.
#2 doesn't really come into play here but #1 does. The original adg design uses a tool hardened steel sear and therefore also needed a steel bolt so the bolt wouldn't get destroyed. The return spring was also steel and therefore they also used a steel spring seat inside the aluminum bodies to prevent the aluminum from deforming. Tippmann wanted to eliminate all of that steel so they redesigned the bolt so the center shaft of the bolt acts like a pneumatic ram and had to then redo basically the whole on/off pin and associated parts because how the bolt travels forward (and back) is now slightly different. That's why the bolt is a clunker in comparison.
You want to see a really big bolt that is also based on the agd design? Go look up a milsig or valken m17 (same marker, valken bought milsig) that thing is longer than a spyder bolt and weighs about a full pound of steel. They actually did that on purpose though so the bolt would have a lot of inertia. They made those markers capable of full auto even though they are mechanical because that bolt has so much inertia that it therefore slows down it's travel so it is only shooting at like 12bps instead of some crazy RTs at like 35
3. The “trigger pin” areas on the assembly, trigger itself, and the trigger lever had burrs. Like significant ones. On the assembly mainly. I polished those smooth and put a decent amount of grease in the trigger lever cavity and man it smoothed the trigger out. There is also a pre travel magnetic adjustment screw on the trigger that Tippmann says to “don't touch” lol. That's because the electronic and mechanical modes have different points of engagement that have to be sweet spotted for proper timing using that screw. If you aren't using electronic though, like me, you can go ham on that screw. I adjusted that thing so the trigger pull is only like 3 maybe 4mm. The trick is to adjust it to the point that you can't pull the trigger in electronic mode. It's literally locked. When you switch to mech mode you'll be able to pull the trigger and it's a really nice pull.
I also pulled out all the electronics which are sitting, sadly, in a tiny zip lock bag. I noticed that, in mech mode, there just isn't that strong of a return to able to walk it. With all the tronics out I put another stock magnet just underneath and to the left of the stock magnet located in the trigger frame. That magnet in the trigger frame actual pulls the trigger lever back and helps with trigger return. Putting in that additional magnet really helped the return and made it walkable
Now what I'm looking at is the spool spring. So when I pulled my trigger pin out (the one that sits in the valve core cavity) it was slightly bent…… this is what was causing my leak before and has already been replaced once….. I got 2 more trigger pins on the way but I'm really thinking that spool spring is too stiff for that tiny pin and that's the real problem.
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