Pro-Carbine Finished!

[C26G]

Man I don't know how much better you can make that trigger ha ha, but I'm confident you will find a way. Now I'm on a quest for a dang powerfeed! Holy crap I didn't know about them. I need better feeding for sure. Is that an electro agitation type hopper? Ha, I'm not up on current nomenclature

[FlightMedic938]

Nope! It’s a DYE Primo hopper which is basically a plain ol gravity feed hopper that has a shelf inside that helps the paint feed. No batteries.

I could make the trigger better with a lightened hammer. That’s really all I’m missing. If I had to guess I’d say at least half of the trigger pull weight is affected by hammer weight.

[C26G]

I picked up this thing like 20 years ago Slightly lighter but I couldn't tell any difference in performance with factory setup but I'll bet your configuration would benefit I don't mean to tease btw ha ha. I think it's just some mild steel chamfered out for lack of better description, and polished. I have an extra Hammer I could send you if you want it to play with and customize - lemme know

[FlightMedic938]

C26G I can’t see the picture. Is it a lightened hammer??

[C26G]

Yessir, holes drilled out of it. From a company called Air Tipps I think. I'll try to resize the image again

[FlightMedic938]

I sent you a DM

[FlightMedic938]

Alright, so pics of it since it’s done. This thing went through many many iterations. Only thing I’d still do is put in a lightened hammer and an aftermarket front bolt that would be a smidge longer if either popped up. Maybe an APP trigger frame but my guys at the pro shop said they’d be cool with no trigger guard.

Heres a list of everything I did starting from ASA going up and then ending at the barrel.

NDZ on/off ASA
AKA mini drop with rail
Smart Parts natural wood grips
Modified trigger frame to be able to use APP double trigger
APP double trigger
Model 98 trigger and sear spring
Everbuilt size 4 brass washers on trigger and sear pin
Polished sear
TechT size 1 (?) trigger pin
Modified safety to work with APP trigger
Taso RVA
TechT green main spring
Polished hammer
SA200 Valve
TA10052 valve stem, cup seal, and stem guide
TechT lightened valve spring
SA200 valve reduction fitting
Volumizer (Shocktech mini cocker ASA, CP gauge adapter, chrome tank threads to 1/8 npt adapter)

Port and polished powertube
SA200 front bolt
Ported vertical adapter with OG brass line
AKA Sidewinder reg with finger grooves
Pro-Lite Commando (?) powerfeed
Armson feed elbow
DYE Primo gravity hopper
DYE pressure gauge
Smart Parts All American Camo Splash barrel

[FlightMedic938]

Changed up a couple things. I put a Model 98 Psycho Ballistics double trigger guard on it. I had to bend it a little and some gentle taps with a rubber mallet to get it to where it wasn’t pressing up against the volumizer. Found a cool cap on MCSUS.com to seal the bottom of the volumizer which will add more volume than what I had on there before.

I ended up going back to the stock bored out barrel shroud and put the commando feed back on the Pro-Lite. The 68 floating valve project is a failure at this point. It’ll stay sealed up for a while but eventually it’ll start leaking and it’s a pain to disassemble to slather it up with Dow 111 when that happens. I guess those rope wax rings are important to keeping it sealed.

Went back to a Freak barrel and I’m going to sell the camo barrel and other stuff soon. I gained around 80-90fps by adding a u cup seal to the back of the front bolt and switching back to the Freak. I had it shooting 270-280fps in-between 350psi-400psi (375psi?) but efficiency sucked and it already wasn’t that good. Dropped in a lighter main spring and upped the pressure to a smidge under 450psi and it’s shooting great.

[FlightMedic938]

[FlightMedic938]

Swapped the VASA backwards so I had much more room to extend the volumizer. I had to file part of the shroud so it would work. A little corner that was pressing against the VASA on the right side.

I bought a MCSUS tuning chamber for this project a while back but wasn’t able to use it because of space constraints. Got it in today and FPS jumped up by 20-25 so I dropped in an even lighter main spring. I could’ve lowered the pressure but I want to keep the operating pressure around 450psi. Shoots even more smooth now.

[Calvin]

Love it!

[FlightMedic938]

Thanks Calvin. Learned a lot from your posts which helped me out a good bit.

[Cross-Country]

[FlightMedic938]

Weird finding yesterday. Decided to just shoot the marker for fun instead of tuning and noticed the lighter the main spring the worst the trigger feels making the trigger pull unreliable which was hurting rate of fire. Took me a while to figure it out. I dismantled the trigger frame and cleaned everything, polished up the sear lip and sear landing on the trigger a little more, and messed around with the trigger spring. Still wasn’t working well. I put in a stronger main spring and solved it all. I’m thinking this-

The hammer and main spring aid in trigger return. By putting in a lighter trigger spring the main spring now has to work harder to reset the trigger. Putting in a lighter main spring with a lighter trigger spring results in a shitty trigger return. So you have to pick your poison, lighter trigger spring or lighter main spring. You can go with a slightly lighter main spring with a lighter trigger spring but not too much. Easy way to tell if it’s too light is to cock it back and pull the trigger slowly but not enough to disengage the sear. If the trigger bounces back sharply when you let go then you are good but if the trigger has a sluggish return and you can feel the sear “sticking” then it’s going to suck. When firing it should have a nice clean break and solid return. It shouldn’t feel sticky.

I’m thinking though. By using an even lighter sear spring maybe a very light main spring can be used. Even a M98 sear spring is pretty stiff and a lot of work for the main spring. Trouble with lightened sear springs is a sluggish sear return which can cause hammer skipping. I might mess around with it but it’s working perfect, just had to drop the operating pressure down instead of trying to drop the fps down with a much lighter main spring.

[RhoXi]

I remember stretching the sear spring slightly on my 98c way back when in an effort to lighten the trigger pull. I ended up with a runaway chop machine with a barely lighter trigger. Not worth it IMO.

[FlightMedic938]

RhoXi I hear you on that. M98 sear weighs less than the Pro Series sear so if it doesn’t work on a M98 it’s definitely not going to work on a Pro series.

I messed around with it more and put a fresh sear and sear spring in. I swear it feels better. Hard to tell if it was the sear or the spring because both were changed at the same time. Not going to bother trying to put a M98 sear spring in again, I think.

I inspected the old sear again and it’s got a little chipping but it’s not rounded or anything crazy.