Calvin's Pro-Carbine shame spiral.

[FlightMedic938]

A pic of the valve reduction fitting and the stock inlet valve. You should be able to notice on the SA inlet how it’s machined different than stock with a larger opening.

[C26G]

Does that fitting fit into the Valve without modification? I want to experiment with different fittings and hoses with mine also

[FlightMedic938]

C26G The Pepperball valve I got was machined a little different than stock so I’m not sure if it would work in a stock valve. I think it would but I could be wrong.

[Calvin]

When the other Sa-200 gets here, I will be opening up both of them and re-sealing them along with the better of the Pro-Carb CVX valves. I will measure all those stems with my calipers. Doesnt make too much difference, though. I will have my way with all of them, for better or worse.

[C26G]

Good work here, all around. I too am a fan of the old Tippmanns. Keep it coming

[Calvin]

Orings from Tippmannparts.com arrive tomorrow. Figured I would do some prep work for my experiments today. Took the worst looking of my power tubes and steel wooled the shit out of it till it looked good again. I cut down a 1/4-20 3/8 screw to get just to the end of the velocity adjustment screws with an oring on it, and used to lock in the powertube with minimal obstruction.



I then beveled out the back of the power tube completely for maximum air movement.
Now it was time to rig up an RVA. Talked to the good folks at Kleindorfers, the best hardware store in the world. Sadly, they didnt have any threaded rod that also had a threaded internal hole. I grabbed a joining nut in 1/4-20 instead. I carefully selected the most beat down rear cap and drilled a hole in the back with a Z-HSS bit till the original spring hole had been fully reached. This made the hole .01" smaller than the diagonal of the fitting, and I press fit it in with the vise till it bottomed out. Finished it off with a 1/4" long 1/4-20 set screw to be the adjuster.

Seems to allow spring and guide rod movement unimpeded, and has a little over 3/4" of adjustment travel for the spring length. The farthest adjustment inwards puts it exactly at the stock cap spring length. Its my hope that I can find a spring length and adjustment setting that will give a good velocity setting range with that fully opened up power tube. I could see back pressure to recock being a possible issue. I will know once I start messing with it. Only my worst parts have been compromised, so no loss if it fails.

[Calvin]

One more theory I had to test today before running. Looking at my most beat up forend, I wondered of it could be modded into a more normal elbow. Turns out it can. I cut off the front at the swell and drilled a hole for a 1 1/4" long 1/4-20 to go through in the cut down elbow. Now you can tighten that bolt to the tightness of your choosing (I left it where I could still thread the barrel on and off), and then put a nut on the outside to lock in the elbow. It is ROCK solid since that is the side the elbow itself is on. I plan on some finish sanding and working down a flat spot for a washer under the lock nut.

I know what some of you are saying out loud right now. You're asking how I am to remove it in the event of a ball break without tools. I don't do that any more. If I get a ball break in a game, I walk off the field in a slow dignified manner, as befits my age. Then I grab the next gun. Next man up, just like Coach Cignetti says.

[Calvin]

After some sanding on the cut, I printed up a spacer to fill the gap on the bottom front end of the elbow assembly. I reused the long screw from the cut off forend handgrip, and cut it to fit the width of that spot. Now the two halves are firmly anchored on both sides.

This is strong strong strong. No more rattling elbow with a heavy hopper. I have one more beater forend that I will do this to, and I will preserve my two forends that are pristine.

Gonna cut the tip of that 1/4-20 flush with the nut tomorrow. Safety first.

[Calvin]

I made one more part this am before work. This piece fits under the lock bolt's head to support the other side of the elbow. It has a rounded surface on the bottom that locks into the curve in bolt stop tab at the bottom of the assembly. It then goes over that tab to lock it down to the body. Also has a little cutout in the front to allow the lock bolt the space it needs to tighten down on the barrel without bending the part in thr middle. Doesn't add anything to the process of taking on and off the elbow since it just stays with the lock bolt when it's off. This completes the elbow project. I'm very pleased with it.

[Cal440]

Nice work

[FlightMedic938]

Looks very clean. Great job

[Calvin]

Seals came in today. Got two valves rebuilt. Played around for awhile with various spring lengths and settings with the bored out power tube. I got it running at fps that passed the eye test, but the hammer would bounce with no ball in the chamber. Other setups just ran weird. I want rock solid reliability at the expense of all else, so stock internals went back in. Got the first one up now. It cycles like a dream. I have a T stock to do some adjustments on and then mount on to this one. It'll be too damn cold to cut in the garage for awhile, so I will just wait on my next sa-200 and more parts ordered. I have a couple .685 CP barrels coming to take the place of this 18" Lapco monstrocity. Overall, I'm pretty pleased that I have one up and in close to new condition.

[Myrkul]

I swear CP used voodoo or something on their Tippmann 0.685 barrels. Best shooting Tippmann barrels by a LONG shot.

[Calvin]

Last night I joined a FB Tippmann Group because that's how compromised my brain is. As I looked sleepily through the posts, I saw this 13 week old photo from a gentleman remarking on how he had multiples of this part.

I immediately sent him a PM and, against all odds, he replied. HE HAS TWO SETS TO SEND ME!!! I'm so fucking pumped! Im going to get a 26\4500 to put direct into these and put my usual T stock on there. Thats what I used to do with my best 68 carbine and a 20oz in the late 90s. It was my favorite semi by far in those youthful days. LETS GooooOOooo!!!!

[FlightMedic938]

Calvin How many shots do you think that little Powerhouse would provide?

[Calvin]

I highly doubt that it would get through an LTR load. Maybe a 50 round hopper...maybe?

[Cross-Country]

WHERE?!?!

[FlightMedic938]

Calvin You can see where I drilled it out

[Calvin]

I opened up the fitting on the first one I completed. I will use the same bit and do the VASA block so the passages are the same size. Having the tank 1.5" of air line away from the valve should help.

[Calvin]

On the subject of that air fitting, I have found something out. When I was at Kleindorfers, I dug through their metric o-rings and found one that has the same OD as the ultra thin one Tippmann used, but is a thicker o-ring. It fits in with no modification to the valve. Sadly, I forgot to take a pic of the o-ring size.

The first fitting I worked with was the most beat up. I put it on a 2" piece of 1/8npt pipe so I could chuck it in the drill press. I used a fine file followed by 1000 grit sand paper and then steel wool to bevel the sealing surface for the new oring. These two parts were installed and uninstalled 5 times while I was experimenting on valve springs without a leak or replacing the oring. It seems to be a much better plan than those tiny ones that are destroyed after every fitting removal. I did a second valve with the same larger o-ring, and beveled a valve fitting that was in better condition. It has been holding air the last 3 days in my completed carbine without issue. I am confident to say this works well. I will find that exact metric o-ring measurement next time I go there so I can publish that info here. I'm about to clean up and bevel 2 more valve fittings.
These both had a serious amount of red locktite. The heat came out in force. Despite cleaning diligently with a dental pick, I think I need to run my 1/8npt tap into them to clean them properly for reuse.

[Calvin]

Got an AM hour to work the printer, rebuild some Carbine valves, and let some Prince deep cuts heal my soul.
3 rebuilt valves are ready to go.

I just need to do another valve fitting bore/cleanup and I should have a second Pro-Carbine back in close to new condition. Next up after that is trigger improvements.

[Calvin]

Two Pro Carbines are cleaned and resealed.

Not setup yet for me to use in a game, but two good actions and lots of spare parts to start with. Now I need to get to a chrono and see how these two are throwing balls.

[C26G]

Looking good man. Would you sell a couple of your printed Bumpers or Ball Latches? I'd like a few bumpers, but wanna give your printed latch a try

[Calvin]

Can do. I have been cranking out plates of the new PEBA ones for the last 2 days. Tested one with a full hopper this afternoon after installing a new double trigger on the Pro-carbine. They work perfectly.