Dye DFF-20 Lazarus Valve

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  • imped4now
    commented on 's reply
    Efficiency update?

  • SR_matt
    commented on 's reply
    Based on his video it seems that you can gain either lower operating pressure OR a lighter main spring which will reduce the trigger weight before the sear releases the lug. He used a .031" spring (I believe the normal springs he runs for the JC/stock Laz is .038) and it was working at normal operating pressures. when he went up to the .035" spring he was able to drop operating from 200 to 170 (I think that was the change). I am not sure if he was running the test with a modified bolt but he did post a teaser pic of a milled out bolt (I believe a ST) where the little diffuser in the front was removed and the port was opened up.

    So basically it seems that we are hitting the 80/20 rule. 80% of the improvements have been hit with 20% of the work (just trowing in a lab and JC), now we are at 80% of the work to get the last 20% out (major modifications to body/valve).

    He is going to be doing some pull tests with an actual pull weight tester to show really what the difference ends up being. It will be interesting to see what the actual results are, and I hope he also shows the pull differences between other mods (such as a traditional slider, ST gunfighter with and without ATTKTX plate, with and with out his HOG tuning, and stock vs polished lugs).

    Maybe the mod will be worth it or maybe it will really just be a tiny improvement that a few people really desire... if it gives a measurable improvement and is ready in the next couple of months I may consider doing it for my new build as its already taking forever so a little more time may not be a big deal.

  • latches109
    commented on 's reply
    I science all the time. The air will quickly decelerate there, I will be curious to see what happens if he matches the body and bolt all the way through.

  • MrBarraclough
    commented on 's reply
    Whenever I come back to this thread and see this image, for a split second my brain registers it as the most badass looking Blazer I've ever seen.

  • docfire
    commented on 's reply
    I call it FAFO. if your don't FAFO you don't learn.

  • superman
    commented on 's reply
    I think he is just trying to get the most flow through the valve that he can. Opening up the body valve port may or may not help. I thought about doing it in the past. I know that was a common mod the guys did on timmys.

  • latches109
    commented on 's reply
    docfire any additional info? e.g. what does he expect to gain?

  • Frmrspec
    commented on 's reply
    That would be my bet.. his previously posted picture showed an aluminum valve plug with some kind of massive thread.

  • RedLeaderSB
    commented on 's reply
    So it’s twice the cross section area of the transfer hole?
    Is he making the transfer hole bigger to match?

  • docfire
    replied
    New from Angry PB


    Click image for larger version

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  • latches109
    commented on 's reply
    Start IVG flush, and reg pressure at 180PSI. Set your lug 1/4 turn past when it first catches the sear. Leave the IVG alone with a 2" spring, adjust with your reg, you should not go past 250PSI - if you can not get to velocity, go back to 180PSI and swap for a slightly stronger spring.

  • superman
    commented on 's reply
    Sounds like your lug is not properly adjusted.

  • Jordan
    replied
    Originally posted by Ssimplechoke
    I have a lazarus in my trilogy. My set up is a lazarus valve/stock flat face hammer/ light main spring/ ivg 2 turns in. I pull the trigger the hammer does not activate the valve. Help needed.
    What's your reg set at?

    Leave a comment:


  • Ssimplechoke
    replied
    I have a lazarus in my trilogy. My set up is a lazarus valve/stock flat face hammer/ light main spring/ ivg 2 turns in. I pull the trigger the hammer does not activate the valve. Help needed.

    Leave a comment:


  • latches109
    replied
    For those having trouble with leaking down the barrel after you have changed the 009 oring - Use a wrench and Allen key to tighten the cap very snugly - this has solved the lingering leaking for me.​

    Leave a comment:

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