So, I got this for my empire sniper and wow it's great.
now I'm wondering what hammer you cats are using. I'm thinking a lighter one is better. Smoother shot? I have ID hammer and the lightest spring from ID at the moment. Recommendations?
Dye DFF-20 Lazarus Valve
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So far, I've tested the valve in a Rex Type R and a DP Fusion F7, along with the Rex R3. They all functioned with the valve installed but I can't speak on any performance difference, just wanted to see if it would work. Only issue I ran into was set screw length and diameter being different gun to gun. Decided to use without the "bumper" O-ring, so the return spring on fasor guns fit into that recessed area and not on the bumper.
My Dragun T1 and Diablo "Wrath" aren't working at the moment or else I'd test it in them as well. Don't think it would work in any of the other guns I have.Leave a comment:
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Where are they out of stock? At the very least, they're available directly from Dye. -
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0B6J...b_b_asin_title
They’re about 1mm longer but feel like the same spring rate force. I don’t foresee having any issues but will let you know if I do. -
I somehow mangled a spring, probably when installing a cap while the valve body was still inside the marker. Dye wanted almost $21 for it. I laughed then bought a bag of 10 for $7 shipped off Amazon.
I’m all about supporting paintball companies but that’s a bit much.2 PhotosLeave a comment:
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I got one just because I could. In case anyone is wondering, this will work in a Rex R3 :dodgy:
I'd assume it'll work in other old school fasor guns as well.Leave a comment:
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tyronejk I wasn’t talking about adding an entire nail just the head cut down and epoxy in. It would add a lil weight to it but make the valve contact area more durable. You could probably find some kind of small aluminum cap you could do the same thing with. Just brainstorming how to make it more durable or fix it if it ever becomes an issue. -
Quick video showing my A4 Angel shooting my Lazarus valve. Velocity was a bit inconsistent, but paint was also not great. Was getting simalr fps swings in my Droid, which is normally 3-4 fps swing with good paint. Lot more testing to do, playing with dwell, and tossing my stock valve back in (I use a lightened valve spring), to compare.
https://youtu.be/CjONksouIjY?si=7Zas87aosxBqtXjaLeave a comment:
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Oring sizes per Billy Wing's live video.
90D-011 oring cupseal
front is ucup seal 008, can run 008 standard (Sounds like this is actually a 009)
111 bumper oring
I am not sure on the small stem oring. Leave a comment:
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I had issues with the body orings popping due to adjusting the HPR reg to high, this was after finding out my HPR reg was shot and all the orings and cupseal had failed lol. it seems like at a certain PSI it would pop. I think the biggest thing is to lube the piss out of the orings to make sure when sliding in the valve that they stay in place. I noticed at least on mine it wants to roll out. This was on a resi. Roger I also did the 9 oring also. I had issues one side of the cup seal would roll on itself causing it to bind and not fully open. -
I also had some leaks with a Lazarus valve in my Ressy but it was easily solved by replacing the body orings with 015/90s. My gun has a regular set screw for valve retention and I think the force of the screw was compressing the original 70 duro orings too tight opposite the screw.
I haven't had any issues with the internal orings though. -
I will have to check my work computer tomorrow, but Billy Wing gave out the standard oring sizes during the live stream. The only one that is still strange is the small stem oring.
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