Dye DFF-20 Lazarus Valve
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I am not having a lot of luck with my Lazarus valve yet. Shooting in the 220 to 240 range but purging a lot of air when shooting. I think my HPR is too high. Using the lightest ID main spring. -
So I can't stop tweaking, but this is the current state of the sniper.
Lazarus installed, working great. Getting solid consistency now after some spring changes. Here are the modifications done so far.- Dye Lazarus valve
- One detent removed
- Front bolt o-ring removed
- Inception designs universal Hammer
- CCM Hammer spring
This was my Chrono string.1 PhotoLeave a comment:
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If there is an intermittent air leak before being cocked, what causes that? Hammer putting too much pressure on the valve at rest?
If so, should I cut down a hammer spring for less pressure at rest?Leave a comment:
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installed the lazarus valve, ID hammer, and the lightest ID hammer spring. IVG is flush. running at 200psi with reballs, shot around 310. backed off to 180psi, shot at 266. turned up to 190psi and started running out of air. eager to try this with paint outside with the chrono.
This is with the front bolt O-ring removed. so far, I like the valve. I think it accomplished what I wanted it to. I think I could even go lighter on the spring. no farting. eager to see how consistent it is. definitely running at lower pressures.Leave a comment:
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I've got an empire sniper. Lazarus arrives tomorrow. I plan to install with the ID universal hammer and the lightest ID hammer spring. Any experience with this setup? Does that look problematic to anyone in the know?
Reg is a hyper 2. All else is stock.Leave a comment:
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I would modify the balanced valve from a spyder VS. The dual chamber is a better design for blowback. -
I think Imped4now would have better insight on whether that escape of blowback gas will impact dwell. Took me a minute to figure out what he meant, but the vent in the stem uses the rise in chamber pressure to push the poppet closed. If the blowback vent isn't sized right, the chamber pressure rise will lead, or possibly lag, the blowback cycle, leading to unreliable cycle if it closes too early, or gas up the stack if it closes too late.
If you decide to drill one, I'd start with a very small port, and gradually work your way up. Not like you're going to put transducers in your breech and hammer to time the pulse so incremental is the safer bet. -
I think this would be a complex problem. There is likely not enough area around the stem to make it work.
The Kingman Eko valve uses a hole drilled parallel to the pin, like the Tornado valve. This would be the best way to modify one; then it could be plugged with epoxy if you want to return it to a Sniper/ Cocker.
The lower pressure may need a cupped hammer and very light spring, which may then require a lighter sear spring, which might affect resetting speed... but I'm gonna say you should try it and let us know what happens! -
If I am understanding the operation correctly, which I may not be, merely removing an O-ring should allow this to function in a blowback right? Or if that isn't enough flow just shaving part of the shaft down so that air can more easily flow past it. This seems like you could take a spyder and use a really light hammer and really light springs, and still get good velocity out of it. The idea of a valve that is a bit more pressure agnostic sounds really good to me.Leave a comment:
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Just curious, was wanting to get new lower internals, and was wondering if it would be worth having it bored to 2k specs, or if anyone had suggestions on lower internals for pre2k pump
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What do you expect to gain? I get 38 full velocity shots off my pre-2k 12g setup. -
I have a pre2k that I'm running as a pump, I was thinking about having bored to run the dye lazerith valve and Jenni kreig hammer any thoughts would be helpful, also I run it on 12g no regLeave a comment:
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