POP Contest - Rainmaker's entry

[NONOBLITUS]

Dr. Frankenstein you did it. Super impressed with your skills.

[Rainmaker]

Haha, well thank you sir. Though it's all guess work, trial and error.

Now I am having an issue though. Like Jordan mentioned, I created a hammer spacer to pinch the back block against the cocking nib (it felt appropriate to name the model file a cockblocker, lol).
But I may have made it too short, as the gun cycles, but doesn't hit the valve hard enough to shoot.

If I make the spacer longer (effectively increasing the distance between the nib and the hammer) will that solve the problem? Will i have to tune the length of the spacer, or will I be able to control velocity with the LPR once the hammer starts hitting the valve hard enough?

I really don't know cockers, so I'm sure my description is about as clear as mud. sorry...

[Jordan]

Haha, well thank you sir. Though it's all guess work, trial and error.

Now I am having an issue though. Like Jordan mentioned, I created a hammer spacer to pinch the back block against the cocking nib (it felt appropriate to name the model file a cockblocker, lol).
But I may have made it too short, as the gun cycles, but doesn't hit the valve hard enough to shoot.

If I make the spacer longer (effectively increasing the distance between the nib and the hammer) will that solve the problem? Will i have to tune the length of the spacer, or will I be able to control velocity with the LPR once the hammer starts hitting the valve hard enough?

I really don't know cockers, so I'm sure my description is about as clear as mud. sorry...

I think you'll want to increase the distance... the hammer needs to be pushing the valve completely open with the backblock fully forward. Maybe verify that spacing to make sure the bolt is lined up with the valve with everything fully forward.

Make sure you've got 400psi or less into the valve, too... maybe drop it a bit, to 300, just to make it easier to open.

That MAC valve vents at around 130ish psi so you've got some wiggle room to play with the LPR setting, too.

[Rainmaker]

Alright, I think i've got the leaks sealed up, and I messed with the cockblocker. Just need to find some time today to put air to it and see what happens. Fingers crossed!

Then the last thing I need to do is make some grip panels.

[Cdn_Cuda]

Good luck and hope it goes well!

[Rainmaker]

Small grip panel for the left side.

[Rainmaker]

It's basically done. Grip panels installed, leaks all sealed up, and I was able to get the cocking rod blocker to work.

The interesting thing about the cocking rod blocker - I ended up press-fitting the white piece into the back block, and making it about 3/16" short, which gave the cocking rod 3/16" of float. this was because if I directly affixed the cocking rod to the back block, it was not allowing the bolt to go all the way back. Not sure if this is a cocker thing, and I'm probably describing it terribly. This also helped solve the problem I was having earlier, that the hammer wasn't fully actuating the valve.

Anyway, I shot one ball in the garage, and it works!

Last couple things:
- Choose a hopper (open to suggestions... I think I even have a spring feed around somewhere)
- Shooting video!

[Jordan]

A-maze-ing.

That's impressive.

[Rainmaker]

Final pics and shooting vid.

https://youtu.be/wV352MV5sOo

Also parts list:
- $60: Base autococker
- $40: Rainmaker parts
- $6: Brass tubing
- $8: Material for 3D printed parts
- $3: Random wiring and switches
- $5: New barb for LPR
TOTAL: $122

[ghilliesuit]

Very dang cool

[JeeperCreeper]

Glad to see another project finished. Magnificent marker, sir.

[Alexndl]

Nice improved poo cocker!
love the blue black grey color combo
Great design work on the grip frame