Wiring diagram really helped! Thank you Opus!!! I was nervous about which wires went to each side of the solenoid, not sure if it matters. I work in a speaker factory, so in speakers - reversing polarity is a bad thing- things move backwards- not sure if it's the same for solenoids but regardless followed the diagram. The ground wire for my power switch pulled out at some point and the pin was still in the harness- instead of fishing the pin out with a pick I stripped the wire a few mm long and flooded it with solder. Gotta do that operation quick because you can melt your harness. All in all it looks good- gonna fish around work for a 9 volt and test this puppy out in a bit.
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plugged a 9v from my workbench at work into the frame on my lunch break and it was dead in the water. took a voltmeter to the 9v and its the culprit! Charging it now to test when i leave work today.
Something interesting i came across-
https://pbmanuals.com/downloads/211_Indian_Creek_Designs_Indian_Creek_Designs_B2K_ V1.8_Manual_ENG.pdf
way back in the day im pretty sure dad ran all dip switches off to shoot as fast as he could. Most fields today are capped at 10. Looking over this manual, I could set the dip switches 1/2/3 to on/off/on (turbo mode) which looks alot like todays ramping, set 4/5 to off/on (0.010 noid on), and then 6/7/8 to off/on/off (0.090 noid off) and using the manuals calculations, that should get us to 10 bps.
Now maybe im getting way over my skis here. But is it not possible this old marker can hang with the modern markers?
definitely over my skis, as ive just read early bushmasters have semi/3 shot/6 shot/ full auto as their firing modes- ill run this in semi with the dip switches for 10 bpsLast edited by RustyShackleford; 07-21-2025, 04:05 PM.Comment
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Mechanically B2Ks are capable of high 20s low 30s cycles per second. From a purely mechanical rate of fire perspective, 10 BPS is childs play for these guns.
Realistically there are a few things that will really slow you down though. The board software is super early for paintball guns, so it's not great. I'm not sure of all the science behind it, but I can absolutely shoot a chaos board set in semi auto with a 10 BPS cap MUCH faster then stock board in semi capped at 12. It might be shot storing, or debounce, or one of those other fancy words I never bothered to learn, but the newer boards do have a significant advantage. OpusX is a fan of Morlock boards, personally I've always really enjoyed Chaos Boards.
Vaporworks is some how still operational today, and still making Chaos boards for the Bushmaster. I just snagged one a few months ago for my BKO.
https://www.vaporworks.net/?product=icd-chaos-board
The other thing that will slow you down is the paint handling. Paintballs have shrunk a LOT since these came out in 1998. There is a lot of wiggle room in the breech with modern paint, which is why it's important to shim the ram with the extra #011 "o" ring so the bolt doesn't go back as far, and why I only shoot these with a bolt that has been modded with a front ramp so I'm not clipping paint, and "o" rings so I'm not getting blow back up the feedneck. Since your gun is blind, I'd also be sure you are running a good loader (Ie. Rotor).
Once you mod the bolt, there is absolutely nothing stopping these from hanging out with modern guns, or even surpassing them if you get "clever" with them. 😉
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Cartridge Rams... What were we thinking?
I'm pretty sure I worked on one of these for Super Nova
Early 2000s Electro's are not my favorite thing to work on. So many wires and weird ideas that didn't pan out long term
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The cartridge rams where only on the first generation of BKOs, which to be fair were specifically design to be more affordable then the B2k.
And I would argue that a LOT of the ideas from the B2k did pan out long term. The spiritual progression is pretty clear from the B2K/Defiant, to the Intimidator, to the Eteks and Egos, all the way out to the Eclipse LV 2. Obviously things became more refined as time went on, but the basic concept is still very much the same.Last edited by Myrkul; 07-22-2025, 12:02 AM.
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THE B2K LIVES!!
should I be hearing the solenoid click when I pull the trigger? I can't remember what marker I use to fire without air and I would hear the noid click- maybe this ones really quiet?Comment
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Ok- noid isn't clicking- so it might be dead- anyone have any ideas how I should suss that out? 9 v directly to solenoid wires?Comment
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I wouldn't do that. I don't think it would really damage the noid (I could be wrong), but it's just an extra step that really isn't necessary. There is a 99.9% chance it's something else that broke free on the harness. Noid failures are almost always cracks like I encountered in my Lachesis thread, or ONCE I had a noid that had been exclusively run at 24 BPS auto-response mode, and it was used heavily and hard by a regular tournament player before it made it's way to me. (I'd like to see someone attempt that firing mode in todays tournaments) That noid still "kinda" worked to, but was starting to fail from too much heat generation and needed 350 PSI to hit field velocity. Those are the only two kinds of noid failures I've personally seen.
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No drill press, but I was able to drill and tap that second ball detent in there. Used some calipers to mark a spot- punched a hole- went small drip but first and then the pilot drill bit and then tapped!! This puppy's gonna love the RotorComment
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Let's not forget to throw this #11 O-ring onto the rear side of the ram. Gonna follow that Myrkuls page! I have some quad- rings coming also!Comment
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Thanks Myrkul! I will go over my wiring harness again and check to see what it could beComment
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Work is starting to get busy so i broke down this morning and ordered a new wiring harness from Vaporworks.
I was wondering what you guys though about the possibility of getting a chaos board with PDS and drilling the body for eyes, then doing the old JB weld like they use to do on Angels way back in the day. I have all these wacky thoughts of making this thing competitive with the modern day guns. Throwing a spare Dye UL frame on it or something...But again i get way ahead of myself. First i should just get it working.
Heres whats left on my check list:
SLPS spring kit comes in tomorrow
Ramp the bolt- gonna try to wet sand a small ramp on this bolt
Inception On/Off comes in Thursday
Docfire Macdev Valve Friday
Quad Orings on Sunday
Wiring harness coming in at some point
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Eye milling can be cool, but I would absolutely not JB weld them on afterward. Vaporworks used to have a mail in service to add eyes that had cool eye covers that they would add. The service isn't available anymore, but BrickHaus has one and should be able to get you detailed pictures and maybe measurements.
My concern with just wet sanding the top edge of the bolt is that it will massively increase blowback up the feedneck if the "o" ring isn't there to prevent it. These guns did have a reputation for having that issue back in the day, and the solution was to either add "o" ring grooves or to get a Vapor Bolt.
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Personally, I wouldn't worry about eyes if you're going to be using a rotor. It feeds way faster than 10.5 bps anyways. Just don't let it run all the way dry before you reload to avoid paint bouncing in the feedneck. But hey, whatever turns you on I say.
Good stuff man. Can't wait to see the finished product.Comment
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Another vote for skipping eyes…Comment
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Ok- Skipping eyes, just gonna get this guy shooting again!Comment
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Just threw in the docfire macdev gladiator upgrade!!! Very mellow install- I think dad tried to service this regulator before giving it to me- super clean inside and the bottom of the gladiator came right offComment
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It makes a lot of sense that your dad tried to service it. B2Ks are WILDLY sensitive to the regs being dial in EXACTLY. These are not like modern guns where the reg is just a scale that controls velocity. On these, it's a balancing act. The HPR pressure has to be X, the LPR has to be Y, your valve spring has to be Z, and the ram itself has to be polished and have the stock spring. All three of those variables have maybe 5-15 PSI varaiablity per gun, but you really don't have a ton of wiggle room if you actually want this thing to perform. These regs were THE BEST when they worked, the main issue is eventually the delrin seat would eventually always fail from dirty air fills, it would just eventually get scratched and it was inevitable. Once they were scratched, the reg was done. When they are dialed in though....God they were THEBOMB.COM. The doc fire kit fixes every single problem with them, and pretty effectively turns them into a lifetime repairable part. That and they just feel "right" in only the way a 20+ year old upgrade feels right on a 20+ year old gun can.
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