Brass K-Frames

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  • Chuck E Ducky
    Ragnastock Enforcer
    • Jul 2020
    • 6284
    • NY

    #16
    That’s going to be a ton of weight even more forward then it already is on a k-frame it’s going to be hard to aim.

    Comment

    • Chemical-x.....ahain
      Certified Post Whore
      • Mar 2023
      • 515

      #17
      Understood, k frames can be built with a bottom line mount. Looking for a swing T or L stock that would get me back to proper spacing.

      The biggest hurdle right now is figuring the ASA and possibility of a different frame.

      Should this not happen I'm not gonna be upset, i do really like it as is.

      Comment

      • Chemical-x.....ahain
        Certified Post Whore
        • Mar 2023
        • 515

        #18
        The flush mount (flat top) one holds it to the tube and I can get that one out but the cap screw is holding up the progress.

        Comment


        • Jordan
          Jordan commented
          Editing a comment
          The cap-head screw should be the one holding the body to the stock.

        • BrickHaus
          BrickHaus commented
          Editing a comment
          So it its spinning, his threadcert is loose... chen, try gently pulling up on the block to try to get the thread cert to bite on the body.

        • Jordan
          Jordan commented
          Editing a comment
          BrickHaus - assuming it's built like a traditional Sheridan rifle, it should have a pringle screw and nut setup like a KP.

          Craig came up with some funky stuff that doesnt use Sheridan parts, though, so it's hard to say what's in there.
      • Jordan
        I. Am. Canadian. 🇨🇦
        • Jul 2020
        • 3511
        • Southern Ontario, Canada

        #19
        Ok, so Kseries (KP, KP2, KP3) rifles and scratch-built PPS brass share the same valve core location and hammer travel. Their hammer travel is nearly an inch longer than P-series brass, so the mounting location for the front grip screw is in a different spot, necessary because of the valve positioning.

        The green circle shows where the frame mounts to on a Kseries - the red circle shows where it would be on a P-series. As you can see, the red circle is around a solder location - if you were to drill/tap there, you'd hit the valve chamber.

        If you want to install a K-frame on your Painter, you'll need a Palmer spec frame, and a threadsert (or something with threads) in the area I circled in green.


        Click image for larger version  Name:	20230509_181424.jpg Views:	0 Size:	1.60 MB ID:	402976

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        • chplnstone
          anachronistic fabrication
          • Jul 2020
          • 307

          #20
          Jordan nailed it. here's a quick picture side by side, p-series on top, standard k-series in the middle (actually c-series but they're the same), and palmer's (in this case an automated k-series but they're the same). for your front frame screw you'd either have to install a nursert or see if a nursert ring (iirc bacci has them in stock) can squeeze in there.

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          • Chemical-x.....ahain
            Certified Post Whore
            • Mar 2023
            • 515

            #21
            Thank you.

            I never did get the stock free from the body.

            I was out a few weeks back and I found a scabbard, while the painter does fit, the ASA interferes with secure stowing in the scabbard. I am hoping to return to working with the project however i think id be happy with a tank mounted to the bottom of the stock or better would be creating a partial pocket into the bottom of the stock.

            Is there still a resident craftsman that might be interested in such an endeavor?

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