Board Swaps

[Jordan]

How'd you wire the eyes? Specifically, which wires to what spot? I want to run a reflective eye on a project but have no idea what wires do what on an Eblade eye.

[Roger7pball]

How'd you wire the eyes? Specifically, which wires to what spot? I want to run a reflective eye on a project but have no idea what wires do what on an Eblade eye.

To be honest I haven’t been home enough recently to touch this project in a few weeks. So I can’t say 100% how I wired it is correct, but should be. I’ll check next weekend.

I cross referenced the 2 pictures below.

[ThatDude812]

Would you be up for installing one of these boards in an Eblade for me once you get yours all ironed out? I also would love to know more about the rainmaker board in the Autococker if it’s not much trouble.

[CavemaN]

I know this is a little old…

Roger, how’d you go about the swap on the blind Viking? Did you drill for eyes at the bottom of the breach?

[Roger7pball]

I know this is a little old…

Roger, how’d you go about the swap on the blind Viking? Did you drill for eyes at the bottom of the breach?

No worries. That Viking stayed blind, I didn’t do any drilling.

For the board swap I just soldered female JST connectors to the Morlock board and mated up the trigger, solenoid, battery, on/off switch, and rear LED.

[Frmrspec]

Did you ever get it to successfully run an autococker? I just milled my Excalibur and will be making a single trigger eblade frame to run it because I know those work amazing for closed bolt logic…my previous attempts at closed bolt operation using earlier morlocks were absolute failures

[CavemaN]

No worries. That Viking stayed blind, I didn’t do any drilling.

For the board swap I just soldered female JST connectors to the Morlock board and mated up the trigger, solenoid, battery, on/off switch, and rear LED.

Awesome man, I appreciate the feedback. I’ll follow these steps and probably reach out to you for further guidance. If I go the Morlock route on my blind Viking. Thanks

[Roger7pball]

Did you ever get it to successfully run an autococker? I just milled my Excalibur and will be making a single trigger eblade frame to run it because I know those work amazing for closed bolt logic…my previous attempts at closed bolt operation using earlier morlocks were absolute failures

Yeah there’s a video in this thread of it running an autococker. But I only ran it that way for a bit before swapping to a sci fi board I got for a good deal.

You shouldn’t have an issue running a closed bolt marker. At least with the mk3 or newest board. I’ve run them in a shoebox Shocker and an autococker.

[CavemaN]

Roger, still have any of the clear 45* grips?

[Roger7pball]

Roger, still have any of the clear 45* grips?

I’m sure I do, let me take a look after work tomorrow and I’ll shoot you a PM.

[CavemaN]

I’m sure I do, let me take a look after work tomorrow and I’ll shoot you a PM.

Sweet

[CavemaN]

Roger is the Morlock board in your blind Viking, piggyback style? Or just OLED and battery are in the grip, and the board is in the tray? From the pics, looks like the latter, but just wanted to check.

[Roger7pball]

Roger is the Morlock board in your blind Viking, piggyback style? Or just OLED and battery are in the grip, and the board is in the tray? From the pics, looks like the latter, but just wanted to check.

I generally soldered the screens to the boards then both lived in the grip frame. Then the 9-volt lived in the tray.

I figured 2 screws to open up the tray and change a battery wasn’t too bad.

[CavemaN]

Awesome, thank you