Are there any battery packs left? I just ran across this thread when I noticed my Raceframe battery is leaking and I searched for the battery pack. I'd love to get at least one Raceframe going.
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if not here, post in WTB --- i forget who else had/made them but there's a few people around that can do so -
Don’t know if your still looking for a battery but field one has put out a LiPo battery that uses the same connector as the race boards
Voltage is 3.7 and 500 mah I haven’t had a problem running it in my gun so far same with Rory from ans
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Know this is an old post but thought I’d add field one has put out a LiPo battery that uses the same connector as the race boards
Voltage is 3.7 and 500 mah I haven’t had a problem running it in my gun same with Rory from ans though I do find them a little awkward in the frame especially with the I assume heat shrink around the connector I assume as a reinforcement photos were uploaded from iPhone and guess don’t convert to well but you get the idea
can find on several different shops
https://fieldonepaintball.com/produc...po-battery-kit
https://ansgear.com/field-one-force-...-kit-11901007/
and don’t know if your looking for a replacement as a better option or just replacements as far as I know smc still makes the model in the racegun I use it’s not the f1 noid
https://www.smcpneumatics.com/SYJ3123-SLOU-M3.htmlComment
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Just hang tight.Comment
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New boards are being developed for the RACEgun platform.
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Prototype #2 runs great (taken right after I built the Saber firmware for it, remember a clean desk is the sign of a sick mind).
No firm dates on availability yet but you know ConradCustoms/Morlock when we say "soon" we mean it. Soon. Just waiting on some stock hardware to make sure it runs all the original gear. It will also run E-Blade eyes and front solenoids (connectors for them are stock) and we have a source for new keypads if you need them, but the F1 runs fine with the original keypad.
Fully rechargable from the back USB-C, still working out the best place for that. I designed a plug for the back but that is 3D printed and difficult to install so some tweaking still happening.
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I apologize for going dark and I appreciate everyone who sent me messages checking in. Life started moving too quick and I realized I was missing it.
I am BEYOND thrilled that there is a big name working on a replacement board. I also started working on a board around the time I started this thread but obviously that has not moved nearly as fast as someone who has the actual skills and talents to make a board. Interesting how the board I was working on also had an OLED screen and USB-c connectivity.Comment
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I wanted to really thank you guy for keeping things like the Raceframes alive. I wanted to ask about what eyes the original frame use. I have a frame working but no eyes for it. not a lot of info out there, what I gather 3mm eyes tied to one 4 pin connector? no idea what specs though. Thanks again!Comment
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Thank you so much for your vote of optimism. You would not be so confident if you saw me grinding this sausage though, it's an "iterative" process
Just to be clear the USB-C is for charging only. The programming interface is the keypad/OLED or Bluetooth or WiFi.Comment
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Oh? Interesting. In the one I was designing, it was both on board through the OLED and via USB. I had re-written RIP to use USB-c. I am no electrical engineer so it is WAY easier for me to write a program than it is for me to design electronics.Comment
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I would be honestly surprised to see how well a 3.7v battery worked.. Usually you start getting low power issues in the 3v range, so starting over 1v down, means you will be hitting those issues a lot faster. The Racegun uses 5v solenoids and a 4.8v NiCd pack. Since it is a LiPo, you cannot charge it from the normal charger circuit either. So I am very curious to hear how that works.Comment
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Oh the Saber doesn't use the LiPo directly, there is a boost circuit so every shot is extremely consistent. If the battery has charge it will fire the gun same for the first and last shot.Comment
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That was for Sherman who is running a stock board on a 3.7v LiPo. When the stock battery gets below 4v, it can cause a lot of inconsistencies so I was very curious how he was running a battery that is over a volt lower than the board is expecting. Same reason why we needed special 9v firmware because the board puts itself in charging mode when it detects >5v input (the stock battery at fresh full charge can be up to 5.2v so the charging switch in the firmware is set to be at that limit) On the boards I have if the battery reads <4v it will randomly switch to safe mode.
The switch to LiPo is smart for the use-case as long as there is a clear battery low cut off. Since they provide a smoother, more consistent shot to shot power draw.
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