So you want to build a Mechanical Ion?

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  • ChoSanJuan
    replied
    Updated my OP for the "Tippmann Ion" bolts. Discussion in the Tippmann forum and link to the ANS listing at the bottom!

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  • lhamilton1807
    commented on 's reply
    You could buy a Dye Rize or Rail solenoid (2011 or later) and mod the cap to fit. The disc armature will work as well as the cap. Or you could replace the entire solenoid with a Rize noid. This thread has the details
    https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/p...time-and-money

  • Jordan
    commented on 's reply
    Mettle Air stocks something similar.

    https://mettleairstore.com/products/...e&_ss=e&_v=1.0

  • The Inflicted
    replied
    Also, anyone got a spare T-33-2? Clippard only sells them in large quantities and there's a 20 day lead time.

    ...or the guts out of a broken SP-1 Solenoid? I've got an intact housing but I'm missing the moving seal piece.
    Last edited by The Inflicted; 11-03-2024, 11:55 AM.

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  • The Inflicted
    replied
    Does anyone have 3D-printed files for SMAV-3 mounts that fit the SP-1's frame?

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  • thirp
    replied
    Just need to find a handful of cheap ions to play around with

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  • JeeperCreeper
    commented on 's reply
    Easter egg perhaps?

  • BrickHaus
    commented on 's reply
    You wanna talk about that fluted pipe you got?

  • JeeperCreeper
    replied
    I have converted my mech rifle into a pneumatic assisted "pump" it definitely makes it just a tad bit quieter when firing. I'll replace the 3 ways with 2 ways soon to free up the 3 ways for other projects.

    https://youtube.com/shorts/DhRWUkVHy...uu20Dtvt-JK8ZF

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  • JeeperCreeper
    commented on 's reply
    This. My Dye framed single trigger was almost comparable to my CVO, just wasn't as crisp of a pull. It's even better on my rifle build, which I used an airsoft trigger box and gained the leverage for one of the most amazing trigger pulls out there, and also a safety. The trigger box has a long arm inside of it that I just positioned the valve underneath. It's about 1.5mm of trigger pull, and it had a nice positive "click."

  • tyronejk
    commented on 's reply
    Ah yeah, sorry missed that. Also, I didn't realize the two holes near the edge of the block were just mounting holes and the two ports you mentioned were the middle holes, so plenty of space for tapping threads. That does seem like a pretty good option.

  • lhamilton1807
    commented on 's reply
    Right, that’s why I suggested they’d need to be tapped. I like your idea of Timmy noid. Looking forward to the results.

  • evilfishsticks
    commented on 's reply
    I replaced chosanjuans mount i initially used with that smav 3 mount on my ion. I had to put a spacer behind the valve but that mount fits in there very nice. I printed out two more because I got 2 more ions in a lot that some buddies asked me to mech for them.

  • tyronejk
    replied
    The SMAV-3 is easy to use as it has barb fittings for hoses. I don't think the Gmek valve has threaded holes to put barbs in, so you'd have to make a custom manifold.

    Intimidator solenoids have threaded ports and a very short throw manual button on them, so I'm planning on using one I have lying around for an experimental build when I have the time to machine some parts.

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  • Jordan
    replied
    Originally posted by lhamilton1807
    Wanted to throw out another option for a SMAV mount that I found recently. It utilizes the slot for the electronics
    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4943347

    On another note, though - has anyone tried using a GMEK 3-way instead of a smav? I've got a mech Ion on the brain and have never used a smav so I don't know if it could easily be replaced by something slightly more modern, with a lighter pull, or shorter pull. I assume the two ports on top of the gmek 3-way could be tapped for barbs or ptc fittings.
    Maybe, although a SMAV only moves 1/16" of an inch, I believe? It's all about the length of the lever used to actuate it, in this case the trigger.

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