So you want to build a Mechanical Ion?

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  • Yeti2008
    replied
    I have an SP1 and it came with the plastic barbed banjo fittings. The host that goes on those barbs is bigger than autococker hose. what fittings do I need to buy in order to make a mech kit work?

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  • Myrkul
    commented on 's reply
    Here is a good break down of aftermarket ION bolts so you know what you are looking for. Many of them have the dual "O" Ring.

    http://www.zdspb.com/tech/mguide/ion...gassembly.html

  • JeeperCreeper
    commented on 's reply
    You could look for an aftermarket bolt, like this one:
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/32523386662...mis&media=COPY

  • aolivier
    replied
    I have been trying to contact Stanchy to get an oring added to a stock bolt, but they are not responding to email and my Facebook messages don’t appear to go through. I ordered a part through the website and it arrived, but can’t seem to get someone to tell me the process for the bolt. Any ideas?

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  • Brokeass_baller
    commented on 's reply
    Correct, the eNMEy vasa isn't connected to the frame. The top is rounded and sits against the internal body. That's why most people just Dremel out that spot on the ion body.

    Should be an easy mod your way too, though. Having the VASA off of the ion frame and mating it to the eNMEy frame.

  • JCC
    commented on 's reply
    Awesome. I was thinking since the vASA of the Ion has its own screw to hold it in place could just hack saw that part off the frame. Grinder and sand it to get a nice finish. Then just run hose from that back to the eNMEy frame. The eNMEy vASA is not part of the frame right? So just use the Ion one held by the screw from the top, and hose would run back to gog frame and valve. Trying to find a cheap 50 can eNMEy to use parts from.

  • Brokeass_baller
    replied
    Originally posted by JCC
    If I had a Gog Trigger frame and valve could the who thing just be bolted on to an Ion? Thinking I could have to separate the Ion vASA from the frame, and create opening to run hose into gog frame, but any major road blocks? Not having all the parts in front of me leaves me guessing at things.
    The VASA is completely different. If you want to mount it on an ion body, you'll have to Dremel the body out for it. Otherwise, yes, it's just plug and play. People body mod eNMEy's all the time, and Ions work well once modified for the VASA.

    I have both a v1 and v2 eNMEy, and an Ion. So feel free to ask if you'd like any pictures or have more questions or anything.

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  • JCC
    replied
    If I had a Gog Trigger frame and valve could the who thing just be bolted on to an Ion? Thinking I could have to separate the Ion vASA from the frame, and create opening to run hose into gog frame, but any major road blocks? Not having all the parts in front of me leaves me guessing at things.

    Leave a comment:


  • Sdawg
    replied
    If anyone wants some pushfit t-union fittings, DM me. I have four I’m never going to use. I put them in my own mech ion build.

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  • Walker
    replied
    I put this one together yesterday;
    Click image for larger version  Name:	mech_ion.JPG Views:	10 Size:	82.7 KB ID:	363572
    I ran into two minor issues;

    1. You have to make sure you use the right trigger. I found that one where the geometry is similar to a stock trigger worked best.
    2. Hose routing - make sure they are longer than needed, and cut them to fit so that there are no kinks. Make small cuts, lots of trial fits.

    I used a pen spring to prevent a kink on the line going to the QEV.

    I used a 360-QEV and a dual oring Shocktech bolt.

    I fit the SMAV first, and worked my hoses from there.

    The trigger is definitely different....


    Walker
    Last edited by Walker; 01-28-2023, 10:59 AM.

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  • Jordan
    replied
    Originally posted by Trbo323
    I'm assuming someone in here has experience with the SMAV-3. I'm thinking about another project and had a few questions about how it functions

    I'm assuming the input is on the small end there, what I would need is output to let's say output A until it is pressed, then output to B . When released I need the venting of B

    Venting of A may be a null factor whether it vents or not but I would like to know

    Sent from my motorola edge 5G UW (2021) using Tapatalk
    Sounds like you need a 4way (what a Cocker uses) not a Smav, which is really more like a convertible 2way in that it can be rigged as a NO or NC valve. (Normally Open/Normally Closed respectively.)

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  • JCC
    replied
    I just threw one of these together real quick (no final mounting) and well…. There is nothing to it. I have a MAVO-3 valve instead of the SMAV so it’s much larger, but can still be squeezed into the frame. I had it on hand so using the free valve I have vs buying one. I can wedge this large valve into the frame in such a way that the trigger activates it and there is no room for it to wiggle. So as long as I manage to route hoses it really works out well. Not sure if the throw is longer or anything, but it is plenty short.

    Look forward to finishing this when time allows.

    Leave a comment:


  • fouge
    replied
    I've 3 Qev's, 3 clippard Mev-2. All are 10-32 threaded but 2 are different. Each have a letter on with a number 6, one Q, on S and one T. What's the best?

    Edit: the one with black collar doesn't work like the 2 others, I believe

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  • JeeperCreeper
    commented on 's reply
    I disagree about the qev. I have run with and without and it has very little effect on performance. The one I use without a qev is quieter and still works just as good

  • Toestr
    commented on 's reply
    Zip ties to secure the hoses?
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