Nova Balanced Autococker Valve

[William the Third]

I like to use a little Loctite 243 on the threads to keep the valve from treading out/in, especially since I like to index the valve (absolutely not required, as I've seen no significant difference in real world testing). However the threads don't seal anything (with the exception for the brief few milliseconds the valve is open during firing), so no worries there on not giving it enough time to cure. The o-ring on the threads is an interesting idea for basically accomplishing the same thing as the Loctite.

I've ran into a couple of situations where no matter what I do, I've been unable to get the valve to seal. In both cases the fix was to replace the valve, specifically the valve body. Due to tolerances in cocker bodies combined with the tolerances in the valve bodies, it seems some combinations just don't work well together (it's also possible their might be some tolerance issues between the valve body and valve stem). The first one was the cocker as seen in post 51 the third cocker I installed one of these valves in (first is a Shocktech SFL, the second is a 2004 Prostock pump). I couldn't get it to seal, so I ordered two more valves from Nova. These two valves interestingly had bodies that were less polished, and color was a dull green vs the bright green the valves typically are. This valve worked perfectly in that cocker. The second time was with the 2004 Prostock pump. While originally the valve in this was perfectly fine, it got caught in the Hurricane Helene flood, then went through three people (the third being Chris as Nova) before coming back to me. This was at Fulda 2024, so to Chris's defense, there was a lot going on (he had to borrow my 1/2" nut driver (technically a 1/4" drive 1/2" socket, a 1/4" square to 1/4" hex adapter bit, and a 1/4" swappable bit screwdriver handle), as they couldn't find theirs). In fact, if you were at Fulda 2024, you likely saw Chris, Mikey, and me working on said marker at the Nova booth on Friday and/or Satuday night. The valve body was swapped out once or twice, and possibly the stem too (there was some work done before I got there), but we couldn't get it to stop leaking. I ended up bringing it back home and swapping in the other dull green valve I had, and it sealed up perfectly again.

[beekermartin]

this is the oring that was clipped

Is there an owners manual or schematic that shows what size every o-ring is? I haven't been able to find one.

[JonM]

One issue I ran into isn’t so much a problem with the valve itself, but rather a side effect when trying to use it with an autotrigger. Timing an autotrigger is a game of minuscule turns to get it right. However, I’m getting enough back pressure when aired up that the gun is out of time after a few shots. I could probably tinker around with it at some point to work out spring tension and pressure, but for now I said screw it and put the standard trigger plate back in. I’d rather have reliability than speed at this point.

[Frmrspec]

What issue are you having with the auto trigger? My brain can’t figure out what the valve may be causing…

One thing I learned a while ago is that with balanced valves you need a really good bolt fitting or a bolt with orings because if the bolt fits loosely air will get around it and blow back your hammer and you get an almost full auto spurt

[JonM]

When tuning it on the bench, it operates fine. However, when aired up, the hammer’s resting position is inconsistent, thus throwing off the timing. I’ll probably need to tear it all down again and see if there’s something hanging it up. I was thinking it could have been the Nova mainspring, but now I’m not so sure.

[JonM]

Forgot what I said. The issue turned out to be the culmination of various problems with springing and an insufficient amount of Loctite on the trigger plate grub screws.

[beekermartin]

I am running into other issues with the Nova valve which might make it not compatible with my body. It is a midblock body. The hammer pin contacts the points of the hex nut of the valve if the valve is installed with a point at the 12 o'clock position. On my valve that is where it sits being close to fully tight with the opening in the valve lining up with the air transfer port perfectly. I have to turn it so the valve points at 10 and 2 so the flat spot of the valve is horizontal. If I set it that way the pin doesn't contact the valve. The downside is the air transfer port won't be lined up perfectly which might hurt efficiency some. That isn't a big deal of course.

I still haven't gotten any air so I haven't been able to test the valve sealing again. If the valve does seal then I will go further into tweaking the bolt distances adjusting the sled and the ram/pump arm connection to get it set perfectly where it won't hit the valve or the body in both ends of the stroke. The issue is I don't think my body was milled far enough back causing the range to be difficult to get perfectly set. First step is see if the valve will seal. If it won't then the Nova valve might not be an option for this body.

Here are a few pics of the body I am using. The bolt I am using is made by Shocktech and obviously doesn't match the body. I am planning on having a better fitting bolt made as well if I can get a mechanical valve to work properly. I have only used an MQ valve with this body previously.

[Cdn_Cuda]

Could it be an issue with the hammer? I have my Nova valve in half block using a CCM long hammer and haven’t had any issues.

[William the Third]

I ran into the same problem in Post 51. Indexing is nice, but really not required. In testing I saw no real significant difference in however the valve ended up, be it opening at 12/6 ("least restrictive"), or opening at 9/3 ("most restrictive").

[beekermartin]

It is not an issue with the hammer. The pin that holds the bolt and pulls the hammer back is contacting the valve if the valve is indexed with a point at 12. If I index it with the points at 10 and 2 the pin doesn't contact the valve. Since it doesn't matter which way the valve is indexed that shouldn't be an issue.

I will be sure to post an update once I have air for more testing.

[beekermartin]

I apologize for the delay but I finally got air this weekend. I installed the valve with the valve spring properly installed this time. I set the regulator to 300 psi and adjusted the hammer spring pressure to two turns in from flush. I gassed it up and the valve sealed! I shot a few quick shots over the chrono and I was shooting in the 320's. That was with a slight under bore of course. I turned the hammer spring pressure all the way out to flush. I was still shooting in the 300's. I am using the springs that came with the Nova valve. I then lowered the regulator a bit. I went back in forth a few times until I was roughly two turns in on the hammer spring pressure. I ended up with the regulator set to about 260 psi shooting in the 280s with the hammer spring pressure two turns in from flush. I don't know what the weight of the hammer is but I can weigh it if anyone is interested.

I still am having other issues though. Even with the Nova valve set so the points are at 10 and 2 the bolt pin is still contacting the top of the valve. Also, I am having issues with the bolt not coming back properly every shot so a ball doesn't always load. That issues probably doesn't have anything to do with the Nova valve but rather cocking rod adjustments need to be done. It does come back all the way if I touch the bolt while in cocking mode with the E2 set to classic mode. Which means it is getting hung up somewhere. With that said I am probably at the end of my ability level trying to get this perfect. I had only used a MQ valve with this gun ever since I built it. Now that I have a longer bolt pin that needs to cock a hammer I am running into new issues. Yes I adjusted the LPR to fully cock the hammer. That isn't the issue. I have bolt and slide issues that might not work with the Nova valve. Time will tell.

I am going to send it to Angry Paintball to have him take a look at it for me. I was planning on getting his lightweight hammer anyway. Obviously the hammer I am currently using is too heavy. I will post more updates once I hear back from Angry Paintball. I imagine that will be a few weeks.

Also, the valve did seal but there is a minor leak down the barrel. I imagine changing the orings on the Nova valve will correct that minor leak. I didn't bother swapping out the orings because it sealed well enough for me to believe the Nova valve could possibly work in this body if I can get the rest of the issues solved.

Edit: I am thinking the issue with loading paint is the backwards travel is now limited by the spring compression with it set two turns in from flush. The answer for this body might be to find a hammer and spring combo that works well with the adjuster set to flush with the body. Then do all velocity adjustments through the reg only. I have feeling that is going to be one of the solutions for this body.

[beekermartin]

I have an update.

Someone (I can't say who) was able to fully separate my MQ valve solenoid and replace the wires internally. He had to do this for me a few times because the first time the wires were too thick. The second time I cut the wires because the set screw that holds the MQ solenoid into the housing was stripped out. I ordered some slightly longer set screws and I was able to lock it down tightly this time. I had to file down the slightly longer set screw to fit in the body but it is holding the solenoid in the housing securely. I installed the MQ valve assembly into the body and it is working. At 300 psi the MQ solenoid was venting but at 200 psi it is not leaking and firing properly. I need to chrono it tomorrow to make sure I am reaching 300 FPS without the solenoid venting but it use to be able to so I am confident it should work. I believe around 265-275psi is required to reach 300 fps with a slight underbore. If memory serves me correctly the MQ valve doesn't vent at that pressure. I remember testing the white spacer option back in the day that allowed you run to slightly higher pressures without the MQ venting but I didn't need to use the white spacer to reach 300 FPS. I will update this thread tomorrow after I am able to chrono.

I feel like when Doc made this Fastback body he didn't drill out or tap the valve retaining threads deep enough. The valve transfer port sits about an 1/8th of an inch further back then I feel it should. That is causing the Nova valve retaining threads to contact the bolt pin. I could try a traditional valve assembly to verify the same issue but since I have a working MQ valve again I am not going to bother. My original intention 20 plus years ago when I pre ordered the Fastback body kit was to use a MQ valve with it that I also pre ordered. I have one of the first batch of MQ valves ever released I am back to that point now with a working MQ valve and I am happy to be back here.

I still have more work to be done. I would like a custom bolt, pin and sled that work well together. I have a Shocktech bolt that works with an Inception sled but it far from ideal. I want a bolt with o-rings to help increase efficiency and stability when recocking. I am going to send it to the guy at Angry Paintball for him to take a look. Also, the rear frame body threads are stripped again. I believe I repaired those threads once years ago but I can't remember if I used a Helicoil or a Timesert to repair the threads. Regardless that needs to be done again. It is holding but barely at the moment. Taking it apart so many damn times over the years has caused this issue.

Anyway, I am done trying the Nova valve in this body so if you want to buy it from me send me an email at caseymartin@verizon.net. I don't have a use for it going forward. I am sticking with the MQ valve in this body. If I can't get the MQ valve to work properly I am going to give up on the body and part it out. Hopefully I don't have to do that. I would really love to get this decades long project finally working the way I intended too. Fingers crossed that I am close to the finish line.

[docfire]

Just put in a Shocktech valve and springs. Use a flat face hammer. IVG 1-2 turns in form flush and do all the FPS adj off the reg.

[beekermartin]

Thanks for the recommendation Docfire. I watch your YT videos often and I am subscribed! As I mentioned in my last post I have the MQ 1 valve up and running again so I am going to stick with that for now. I do appreciate your recommendations though and I will consider that in the future if I decide to go back to a traditional valve setup. I am hoping the MQ valve is going to keep working for me and I will be sticking with that going forward.

[Myrkul]

Nova was actually at my field this past weekend for a big game, and honestly since the original valve I had from them shot so well despite it being cockeyed, I was definitely wanting to grab another one.

They have DEFINITELY cleaned these up a shit ton since the initial release.

Zero cockeyed now jam nut now, the air transfer ports are straight and clean, and even the annodizing looks a lot glossier and smoother.





I'm extremely impressed by how much they have improved the fit and finish of this part.

Additionally, included in the installation kit was a #012 "o" ring. While I was initially unsure of why that "o" ring was included, when I placed it on the base of the threads, similar to how Frmrspec suggested, the valve indexed absolutely perfectly in my 04 Prostock Body when the valve was snug.

I like to put an oring at the base of the threads, it keeps my brain happy and allows me to snug up the valve

[maggot]

Nice. Now I kinda wish I didn't stock up on them right out of the gate and waited. Great valves in my experience.

[Spaghetti Overdrive]

Wait... these look super slick. Are they still being sold new?

[Spaghetti Overdrive]

ope, found it

$50 ain't bad

https://novapb.com/collections/autoc...balanced-valve