Qnd just like that. Its back to SUCK!
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BrickHaus REPLACE THAT EXTRUDER BRASS GEAR. I say that from experience. I can see the wear in it from one of your pics in a previous post and I ran into weird feed/skipping issues on my Ender 3 V2. I found the brass gear wears fairly quickly... Like 3 or 4 spools. I ordered a dual gear extruder but until that arrived, I ordered stainless gears from Amazon. Once I put a new gear on and set the e-steps because the tooth count was different I was back in business. Then I got the dual gear extruder and have had even fewer feed concerns.
FYI, I have only had a printer since the beginning of December... so like 5 months? So take this info with a grain of salt.
I just picked up a Voxelab Aquila - which is a near identical copy of the Ender 3 V2. I immediately put one of the stainless extruder gears on it because I didn't want to go through that learning experience again. -
Thanks for that advice!!!
I got my dual gear extruder today. Hence why I was messing with my printer all day.
I did get a goodish benchy out of it, but I didnt realize I printed it with the creality software vs ultimaker. I have another one on the printer now running ultimaker just to compare. But it still isnt a great print. Ill keep messing with settings.
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I determined that my filaments all had water in them as I have had them all for 4 ish months, and my printer is in my basement. That is aside from my brand new spool of ttty3d silk copper filament. I didnt want to get into this roll yet, but after figuring all of my other filaments are junk, I went for it.
I put my other filaments in a long piece of vacuum bag, with a large desiccant pack, and vacuumed it as much as my food saver would do.
I printed a fairly successful fidget cube over night out of the copper.
I then went for a trifecta of pgpness by JomM this morning.
A scifi tip, pump handle, and extended feed plug in silk copper.
Things looked great on the first layer, but an hour in, I saw half of the pump handle was curled off the bed. So I failed the print and started it over with a slightly warmer bed temp.
Velcor be with me!Comment
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Dual fan duct with a winsin 4020 cold end fan.
I do have a new hot end in the mail now, but still trying to iron the issues out.
Im currently running an extruder ratio check, and holy hell, at the stock 93 transmission ratio, I was only extruding 65 mm for a commanded 100?
I set it to 143.1, and I overshot by 10mm, so im currently trying a value of 130.
How could it be that far off? -
I saw the same wacky high numbers when our installed my dual gear extruder. I just tried it 3 or 4 times before I was satisfied with the result. I think mine might be in the 130 range. -
I tried dual gear extruder, and it never worked ... i ditched it and went back to the original gears and it worked much better ... never had power or slippage issue that wernt cause by heat creep and flament getting stuck in the heat break (all metal hot end).
@brickhauss, can you port a picture of your heat break?
If its the same as mine, ill see if i have a spare titanium one for you
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XEMON i can't show my heat break this moment as I'm about half way through this print.
i think its the stock creality heat break though. I did buy this printer open box from micro center, so there is a chance the old owner upgraded the hot end. ( my part cooling fans came with spun bearings so it got used)
That being said, the hot end I have in the mail should arrive tomorrow. I have a Haldis 3d red lizard Q1 to replace this hot end as a while. I believe its a bi-metallic hot end and should be better than titanium for heat creep.
My stock extruder was a major issue, night and day difference when I swapped it, but my printer was also underextruding so I think it needed to be calibrated from jump.
As you can see from one of these pics. Its actually working!!!! I should have some decent sheridan parts by 5 am. Too bad I leave at 4:30 for work. Lol.Comment
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They are coming out nice! Not half as nice as your emek body, but I strive to be as masterful as you OpusX!!! I will get there!! I'm curious to see how the silk filament holds up to the stress of the pump handle.
Im also hopeful JonMs sci fi tip is an effective loudner.
But at the end of the day, I spent my whole weekend fighting this printer, and I'm just happy to feel I didn't lose the battle.
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That copper color is Slick! That was going to be my next suggestion - to try a new spool of filament. Or if you have a dehydrator. When I start to see issues like that, I put the spool in my food dehydrator for about 4 hours, and it makes a huge difference!Rainmaker's feedback: https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/b...maker-feedback
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All of my JonM goodies were a success, short of my loudner. It is tight n my kp3 and pgp, but ill sand it out eventually. I think the pgp 2 must have thinner walls on the barrel.
Tonight I started a Revolverloader 2.0!!!!
Much excite!Comment
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Well i know what my next filament will be, I love that copper color,.
Making a clip to join some 10 rounders. 5 tubes would have been better but the 4 tubes is the size of a pod so I can be lazy and just stick them in a pod pack.
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I got half of my revolverloader 2.0 printed today. I kept knocking them off the bed so I resorted to a slooow print, and one piece at a time. Seems to have panned out! Revolver is printing now.Comment
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Printed this:Attached FilesLove my brass ... Love my SSR ... Hard choices ...
XEMON's phantom double sided feed
Keep your ATS going: Project rATS 2.0
My FeedbackComment
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Well, progress on a slip on right feed adapter, Bringing it down to the body and adding a lip prevents it from twisting which is great. terrible heat issues though lots of warping and way too big, but progress
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My airsoft build is looking pretty done!Comment
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Working on another update for my spump. The original grip is not very comfortable and also very heavy. While at it I also integrated my On/Off asa mount.
Today I printed the first alignment test, and while some of the pin locations need twaking I was surprised to find the thing actually catches and fires fine.
If it doesn't have the [F] i don't want it. - EuropoorComment
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Printed a MuddyBloodyFactory mag adaper. Pretty sure Cura is to blame for the two bad layers on this, as everything else was perfect. Those two just didnt fill correctly, and as expected from looking at it, they sheared apart with minimal force. Oh well re-slice and re-print
Last edited by OpusX; 05-01-2022, 01:04 PM.Velcor will save us...
Current MCB Feedback : https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/b...opusx-feedback
Legacy MCB Feedback (Wayback Machine)Comment
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Last night I had a race between printers. Who could print a revolverloader faster with the same program.. my new E3 pro beats my v2 easily, which is kinda disappointing.
So I got a whole revolverloader out of my pro in magenta, but my v2 froze and I couldn't recover as the firmware is messed up, and my E steps resets after a program cycle. The V2 is being re run as my buddy asked for 2 loaders for his nasty. My v2 seemed to freeze on that line of code like it was corrupt, so its simply re sliced and running now.
But, the whole reason I got these baddies is to make rocket molds and make foam rockets for me and my friends to stop having to tracking rockets down as hard as we do.
My pro is warming up right now to start the longest print I've attempted.....
All of my previous molds have had like 5% infill, but they fail after so many rockets are made, so Im seeing if real infill numbers makes them last.. oof meter ready...Comment
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Bricked, in the exact same spot....
Im guessing:
My sd card has a damaged spot
My firmware is just that corrupt
Or noise being generated by my pro is scrambling my v2.. either way. Im taking a break from the v2 til I update firmware.
On q side note. These have enough of the feed neck profile they could work, they trap a ball.. i could give em to my buddy, he would run them backwards as he's a rock back kinda guy anyway, and these would provide a nice sight window.... just can't use o rings.
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Power supplies are both stock. I have 2x ferrites on my power line for the v2 to try to nullify the noise. But it doesn't seem to help.
It makes the lights in my home gym pulsate the same, so it annoys the crap out of me.
The ender 3 pro doesn't have anything on the power cable. But I just turned my v2 off in frustration as I made my last post, and the lights still seem to pulsate so both printers make a ton of noise.
My basement wiring may be to blame also. I'm willing to bet I could go through the outlets on the circuit and wire everything with pigtails so there is a solid neutral and ground path back to my panel vs the likely daisychained outlets ( electricians are lazy and wiring the neutrals through the outlets was allowed at one time.) Branch circuit wiring is a big deal when you get into electronics. And we have all LED bulbs, and 2x printers generating noise so I'm probably cooking my neutral.
But I haven't done that yet. I usually re wire the outlets when I paint a room, I haven't done the basement as its all Wayne's coat paneling.
Ill try a new card to start, I just assumed this was only a program issue til it failed a second time . -
I made loops around the cores. I knew they wouldn't likely help, but work was throwing em out so I tried it.
No isolation transformer, and I have a 6 outlet splitter that has surge protection on it. Honestly that isnt helping, but i only have a single outlet in my paintball room/workshop so I need the outlets. I think Ill run an extension cord through my joists back to the outlet just off of my service and load a new sd card as a test. I bet that nullifies a lot of my problems.
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