ADA: Ask Doc Anything!

[Walker]

Hiya Doc,

What causes this type of damage to nickel(?) finish? Is it recoverable, or does the finish need to be removed somehow?



Looks worse in person, and it was every nickel finished piece on the gun.


Walker
(sorry for the poor pix. My camera skills are ok, it's the lighting that gets me)

[DocsMachine]

It's just tarnish. Nickel is mostly resistant to oxidation, but not not entirely. Ever heard the old term "triple chrome"? That meant the platers put three layers on a part: a layer of copper, which 'fills in' slight scratches and tiny pits, the layer of nickel which gives the bright silver color and the main protection to the part, and then a layer of chromium, which gives the part it's brilliance, as well as "sealing" the nickel from oxidation.

It's basically like painting a car- the copper is the primer, the nickel is the color coat, and the chromium is the 'clear coat'.

In most cases, nickel by itself is suitably durable even for all-weather use. IE, Palmer's Typhoons and the like.

But, in some cases- and in my experience especially over aluminum- if not applied well, and not cared for properly (stored in high humidity, paint or other gunks left on it for protracted periods, etc.) it can easily tarnish.

It's also possible that the nickel was applied much too thin (poor plater or just as an attempt to save money) and the aluminum is tarnishing under the nickel.

The only restoration is maybe trying some metal polish. Flitz or Brasso or Mother's, etc. Scrub a small spot and see if you can buff off the tarnish- if you're careful, you might try light power tools, like those little felt polishing discs and cones that come with Dremels.

If you're just making the tarnish shiny, it's the aluminum, and there's no way to save it except by deplating and replating, or deplating and then anodizing.

If the tarnish does go away, keep in mind you've actually removed some of the nickel, which was probably very thin to start with, and the aluminum may oxidize under it.

Doc.

[Walker]

Thanks Doc... I've already replaced all the "tarnished" parts, so I'll try a bit of light polish, and see what happens.

[nadrepadre]

Doc, did you have a hand in this?

[DocsMachine]

I don't recognize any of it, no.

I assume you mean specifically the hack-job midblocking? No, definitely not mine.

Doc.

[k_obeastly]

Do you think a "6 way" valve (like the g force gemini kit) that would thread into a standard front block would be a marketable product at this point in time?

The answer I’m hoping for is “I’m about to find out, I”ll sell you one and name it after you.”

[Brokeass_baller]

I had a Gemini kit, and I can tell you it's more of a hassle than it seems like it would be. If you have too high of a pressure difference, the switch (6-way) will not want to reset and hang up on the forward trigger stroke. If the pressures aren't too different, it'll probably work alright, but I don't see much benefit from only a 5psi drop. That's my 2¢. Maybe I missed something important when I had it. I was 18 when I was messing with it.

[Savet]

Doc, can you make a .50 caliber autococker?

[XEMON]

Ever use something like that?
it seam like an easy/good way to drill tubing on center (which I always struggle) on the lathe.
Anyone have or used one?

[DocsMachine]

Do you think a "6 way" valve (like the g force gemini kit) that would thread into a standard front block would be a marketable product at this point in time?

-The reason for the Gemini system was to have a softer closing pressure than cocking pressure. As for it being a "marketable" product, considering that the company itself couldn't succeed in marketing it, back when 'Cocker were the pinnacle of tourney technology, I'd say no.

It's the kind of thing that if you made five or six, you might find buyers for most or even all of them- especially if you included the matching front block.

The answer I’m hoping for is “I’m about to find out, I”ll sell you one and name it after you.”

-I wouldn't mind giving it a try, but I have so many other things on my plates right now I couldn't even guess when I'd be able to get to it.

Doc, can you make a .50 caliber autococker?

-Easily. The original Snipers- the very first ones- could actually be ordered as "multi caliber". You could order it in .50, .62 or .68, or even get a "kit" that let you swap between all three.

The way Bud did it was the two sub-caliber barrels had a significantly extended breech, that when screwed into the gun, extended past the feed neck. The barrels had to be "bored in place" so there was an opening that lined up with the feed neck, meaning the barrels were matched to that body.

After that, you had a bolt that had a stepped-down nose, where the back half was normally sized, and the front was reduced diameter to fit in the barrel.

Doing kind of the same idea today? I've been asked this several times, and it's comparatively easy. I'd make a sleeve with a step at one end, like a long top hat. That would slide into the 'Cocker breech, with the rim coming to rest at the base of the breech where it meets the barrel bore. Bore the feed neck through (side or vertical, doesn't matter) and drill and tap through for a normal ball detent.

You'd have to make a slightly extended detent to reach in and still work against a .50 cal ball, but the extended detent would also lock the inner sleeve in place.

After that, the aforementioned stepped bolt, which is easy, and then a .50 cal 'Cocker barrel. Eclipse used to make kits for Eteks and the like, back in the day, so something like that, if you could find one, would be ideal.

Optionally, find a .50 cal barrel off of just about anything else, and make an adapter to allow it to fit the 'Cocker. A third option would be to make a .50 cal insert that goes in a Freak barrel. I seem to recall- but have not confirmed- that 1/2" thinwall hobby brass tubing is ideal for a .50 cal barrel- you just need to sleeve or reinforce it somehow, so it's not too fragile.

... Geez, does anyone even still make .50 caliber anymore? Just checking eBay (it's quick and easy) virtually everything listed is pepperballs, steel shot, or "less lethal" plastic balls. I found a blowgun dealer that had some- which is almost certainly crap quality, and one seller that had a couple cases of Valken 50. Which I'd wager is probably five years old by now, or more.

Doc.

[MrBarraclough]

.50 cal is big at some fields that offer "low impact" play for younger renters. It's a huge part of the business at CAPP (Central Alabama Paintball Park, near Birmingham). They have a whole rental fleet of Tippmann FT-50s, which are just .50 cal versions of the FT-12. Along with gellyball and Nerf, that field has a complete ladder of offerings that eventually get up to true .68 cal paintball. In the coming years, I will be very interested to see if that kind of graduated system is more successful at drawing new players into the sport, compared to just starting with normal paintball at 10-12 years old.

When I played in a mech hyperball tourney there in July, one of my teammates (it was a draft tourney with randomized teams) was a local teenager who had been doing really well at .50 cal playing walk-on with groups of renters. His very first game of real, .68 cal paintball was the opening game of that tournament. We had him play as our snake front. He got all the way down to the other side's snake insert bunker, shooting out three dudes on the way, before losing a gunfight. In his case, at least, the system of cutting one's teeth in low impact .50 cal play seems to have worked.

I have noticed that ANSgear offers 2000 round cases of .50 cal Empire Marbelizer.

[DocsMachine]

Ever use something like that?
it seam like an easy/good way to drill tubing on center (which I always struggle) on the lathe.
Anyone have or used one?

-I've never used one, but I've seen them used. They get the job done.

Keeping in mind my first machine tool was a mill-drill, and it was a while before I got a lathe. Drilling the center of something is easy on a mill, of course.

Doc.

[XEMON]

Awesome, thanks 👍
I may give them a go to hold me a bit while I wait to find the right mill (a small knee mill, Rockwell or alike would be a dream 😜)

[Super Nova]

Are you still doing custom work on pball markers? We talked a long while ago about doing some work and I have acquired the bodies, been trying to contact ya to see if you are still in the biz and interested. LMK thanks.

[DocsMachine]

It's worth noting that I ordered a cheap .50 cal barrel off eBay when I looked for the post above, and two bags of that "blowgun" 50. (Which will probably be crap paint, but it was cheaper than buying- and shipping- a whole case.)

When the parts come in, when I get time, I'll do a quick write-up on that kind of "drop in" conversion. I've been wanting to try one for a while, ever since I saw the PE kits for Eteks.

... Anyone know what the actual bore measurement for a decent .50 cal barrel is?

Are you still doing custom work on pball markers? We talked a long while ago about doing some work and I have acquired the bodies, been trying to contact ya to see if you are still in the biz and interested. LMK thanks.

-I've gotten your messages, but have been holding off answering for a bit. At the moment I'm booked pretty solid through at least the middle of September. I'll try to get you a proper reply this evening and we can hash out a timeline.

Doc.

[Super Nova]

Awesome, just glad you got them. yea doesnt have to be tomorrow that I ship em out or anything.

[Meleager7]

Ok, so this idea is obviously a not-so-clever play on your last name, but have you ever thought of doing a run of Paintball Collector Coins, naming them "Doc's Nickels" of course !

I would say they'd have to have some decent weight, so they make a good clang when they hit a table, and on at least one side would have your Polar Bear mascot !

What should go on the other side though?

And which Material, the irony being Doc's Nickels are not actually machined from Nickel !

[un2xs]

Perhaps it's too obvious... but brass?

Anodized aircraft grade aluminum isn't meant to be heavy.

[Pyrate Jim]

What would be Doc's opinion on Hard Moutain Dew?

[DocsMachine]

And which Material, the irony being Doc's Nickels are not actually machined from Nickel!

-That's not really irony.

But yeah, I've thought about things like enamelled TWB pins and "Challenge coins" and the like, but really, I have a hard time just keeping up with my regular inventory stuff. And, I suspect, the total market for a "Doc Challenge Coin" or whatever would be, like, five.

This coming year, I hope to be able to pour a lot more time into that kind of thing, but as always, it depends on all sorts of other work.

What would be Doc's opinion on Hard Moutain Dew?

-Doc are not a drinker.

Not out of any sociopolitical teetotalitarianism or anything like that, I just never really liked the taste. (And, I have to say, I never really liked the slowed and distorted thought processes, either. Doc was also never any kind of a party animal.)

It's also worth noting that, even with all the other Dew variants out there, I stick with the original Green Death flavor.

Doc.

[The Great Equalizer]

If they ever come out with it again I highly recommend trying "Mountain Dew: Pitch Black". It's the only flavor I like more than radioactive green.